spurdy

We have 2 RC Trucks for sale. First I've got an HPI Savage XL with the 5.9 Big Block engine. This truck comes with all original items as new. Manual, CD, spare parts, charger, roto start, tools and controller. It also comes with an upgraded charger, sand paddle tires on rims, hot shot w/charger, extra batteries, carry tote, extra a arms, shock parts, misc spare parts, and 1 gallon of fuel. This truck has 3 forward gears and is really fast. Next I've got a Traxxas Revo with the 3.3 engine. It also comes with all original items. The original controller has a broken atenna but it still works. I have purchased a replacement controller from Traxxas but it needs to be bound to the servos (this is a process that is explained in the manual). It comes with manual, CD, spare parts, charger, EZ start, and tools as well as extras, upgraded charging system, sand paddles with rims, glow plugs, extra batteries, carry tote and 1 gallon of fuel. I bought both of these new about 1 year ago. I have driven the HPI twice after breaking the engine in and have run about 5 tanks of fuel through it after engine break in. This thing is really fast and a great jumper. The 3 forward gears with carry this truck faster than is comfortable for control, at least for me! I have driven the Revo once since break in.ONly 1 tank of fuel since engine break in. TThe body doesn't even have a scracth on it. This thing is a blast to drive! It handles absolutely great and corners phenomenally! Both trucks are 4WD and in absolutely great condition. The HPI has some body scratches but that's it. The Revo doesn't even have body scratches. I bought these for my son and I and we just don't have the time to play with them much. We just don't have time for another hobby. Both trucks retial for around $600 and the carry totes were $100 each. $60 worth of fuel. The upgraded chargers were $50 ea and each truck has one. There are lots of spare parts for them as well as other accessories. I've got about $1600 invested in total. I'm asking $400 ea for them or $700 for both. Everything is included. Both trucks were meticulously broken in following ea of the manufacturers specifications explicitly. Since both have very low run time, the engines have great compression and will provide many hours of trouble free operation. Check this Bad Boy out! http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/104246/ Here's the Revo! http://traxxas.com/products/models/nitro/5309revo33 I've almost changed my mind after seeing the adds! Lol! These things are an absolute blast to play with! We really just don't have the time for another hobby. These will bring several hours of enjoyment to someone, I am sure. Call or email if interested 816.213.8504. Click here for more photos http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/22899517/1/RC%20Cars?h=9d6b58 If shipping is required I am afraid I cannot include the fuel. If you can pick them up the fuel goes with them. Shannon

Thanks brotha! See guys, I do sell shit on occasion Lol! SP

I agree, my last 350 on pump gas I could start by hand as well. It was at about 155-160 static psi compression. Just because it doesn't kick over hard doesn't mean you have low compression. My 4 mil with 185 static psi compression I cannot start by hand but I still can roll the kicker through by hand and it starts very easily. As far as checking cyl to piston clearences, I double check everything all the time. The site sponsors are great and Kevin at HJR does top knotch work, one ot the reasons he is a great site sponsor. However, each of these guys are just that, regular guys. Everyone is good at something but that doesn't mean that none of us are exempt from making a mistake, even doing what we are good at. It never hurts to double check and if something isn't right, it is much easier to correct and even Kevin, Jeff, Andy, however it may be would be a lot happier if you called and said "Hey man, I think something here isn't right...." rather than calling or posting and saying "what the hell man, I just put this together and ring got hung in the exhaust port.....". Just my 2 cents. SP

Yep, I've got an alluminum twin row stock style carrier on my son's bike. It does not have a grease zerk though. Easy enough to fix. As for the bearings......none of the bearings out there were designed with the banshee application in mind. Meaning that bearingsare bearings and they aredesigned to do what they are designed to do. You get what you pay for with bearings and correct lubrication is a must for their proper operation. SP

I had a J arm frame years ago. When I went through the bike I replaced the bushing in the front end with needle bearings. I rode it for 3 or 4 years and never had to replace any of them. Never had trouble out of the stock ball joints. SP

Nope wasted too much of my life on your stupid post already. You obviously don't listen and have done little research on you own. SP

Or should I just look for a 4mm crank and try to attempt to do a hidden 4mm with my original head........I think right there is admission of your thinking of trying to cheat. Just sayin. And Matt is right. One of the basics in upgrading a 2 stroke motor is NOT to bore the cylinders. You wont gain enough displacement to achieve any more power. 0.080" to 0.100" are the end of the life of a stock sleeved cylinder. The best bang for your buck is going to be porting, timing, and bigger carbs. Nobody can give you any advise on your current motor because we have no clue what you have. If it is truely stock ported I'd have to guess your running stock carbs. If that's the case you are likely no where near ready to jump on a cub yet. Stock port/stock carbed is likely a 40-50 hp bike at best depending on what else is done to it. A cub can be double that. As for the cheating.....I couldn't give two shits if you cheat or not.......but I would definately call a spade a spade. And just because everyone is a cheat doesn't change the facts. SP

This is true. I got mine back in 7 days over thanksgiving holiday a couple of years back. Seems he has always been known for his quick turn around time. SP

Question for me is, what would make a good drag/duner motor? Something with some grunt but still get out there and run with a 421 cub. Not big drag motor compitition but a tweener. My 4mil stock cyl is a great duner and not bad a the strip but def on the back end more often then not. 4mil DM? Where's that game at? SP

Lmao! Hats off to you then! And throw that shift shaft away SP

Are you afraid to get a little dirty? Lol! Yes, high wear and worn out. It wont cause it to shift poorly but it will slip around the pin leaving one end of the claw inside the pattern of the shift star. SP

A true 4 mil as opposed to what other kind of 4 mil? $1500 is not a bad price for a complete running 4 mil motor. Complete as in everything including stator and flywheel? Carbs? It would cost you about that much to change your stock motor over to a 4 mil, depending on how much you have done to your motor now. If I had the money and new the condition of the motor, that is the route I would go if I were you. SP

But in all fairness, your 421 isn't a typical 421 build, Cam. Most 421s are not well suited for trails. SP

So you're saying the chain path is under the roller not overthe roller? That isn't the chain path on mine but I have an older style that is a slider. SP

OR your bike is tuned better. Most generally tuning and set up make more difference than bolt on mods. SP

Maybe he is right. I havea hard time to believe truely zero drag here but that looks like the part in you picture. SP

That I would like to see. PCs making 95 hp and xx torque on a stock cylinder motor would definately be impressive. However, if it's on an aftermarket cylinder, well, I don't think anyone is going to be too impressed with that claim. SP

That definately doesn't look right. I have a TM design on mine and there is no interuption of the chain path off the sprocket (41T). It looks like the wrong chain guide. Only difference is mine is only a slider, not the roller design. I also have 2 counter sunk screws along the bottom, not just one. Mine is lower and comes down on the front at closer to a 90 degree angle to the ground. What's your email and I can send you a picture. SP

I agree with that. Depending on where you want your power, I think this pipe would have a place where it could dominate. However, that is jmo based on a logical standpoint with no practical experience. If there was a best pipe out there for every application, then most people would use that pipe. SP

Yeah, I don't think a 100 hp cub would be a good set up for real trail riding. The cub out of the box is drag ported (so in one of your first posts you said *can't be a full drag port*), well that's what a cub is. Ported for drag racing with drag port timings. Granted there is further porting you can do to get more out of a stock cub but it is a drag cylinder. Now, the serval has lower port timings and con be increaesed to the regular cub timings in the future but has a much smother power delivery, which is more what you would want for trail riding. I think your best bet would be either a serval, or a very aggressive duen ported stock cylinder. Depending on the fuel you run and set up, you an squeeze 80-90 hp out of a well set up stock cylinder and maintain the trail riding ability. Last thing yoiu want is to have that light switchy power band of a drag port come on at the wrong time in the trail. With a drag port wyour gonna be right between not having any power and having way too much power. SP

You can still clean up the intake. Almost all builders will etch the intake in one way or another to enhance atomization of the fuel as you describe. The exhuast will get polished but not the intake. 2 strokes are no different. SP

Last set of 10 paddle bead to bead buffs I bought, I got from John at Sandtoyz Unlimited. Best price and best customer service I've had in a while. http://67.199.65.66/sandtoyz/newlook/content_page.cfm?if_page_id=16 SP

Boost tube, flow tubes, tube holes? Are you talking about the crossover tube? That is usually replaced by some teenage kid with a boost bottle? Several of the single intakes (they look like they are single piece but actually 2 pieces bolted together) have an internal crossover. I have run with and without the cross over and I don't notice any difference. But I keep my carbs synced very well. The crossover can help equal out the flow if your carbs aren't synced well. Other then that I don't see any need for the crossover, but if you've got it I don't see it hurting anything either. SP

I've got a TUSK in my 4 mil stock cylinder. I raced a season with it on alky and it held up just fine. Dropped back down to 110 octane for next year. Haven't had any issues as long as I run heavy springs. Oh, it's under a DD lock up too. SP

Sorry, it wasn't Mod Quad. It was Moose that makes the Dual throttle. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/263/17756/ITEM/Moose-Racing-Dual-Gasser-Throttles.aspx SP