spurdy

WTH? Everyone lost their sense of humor? Oh well, I got a chuckle......who's gonna be the next huckleberry?

I bought some off of NYUK right after this post went up. $20 shipped. Thanks for the replies.

Just like the title says, I need a stock set of pivot tubes and bolts for a arm frame. I do not need the dust caps or seals. PM me if you have some you don't need. SP

Yeah, that is kinda fucked up. I mean, I understand first one with the money gets the prize. But to tell a story about it falling off a bench to avoid telling the truth about selling it to another buyer kinda has chickenshit written all over it. I guess there are 2 sides to every coin. SP

I was running 3 hds on my hjr dune port 4 mil and was slipping off the line in the sand and causing miss shifts between 3rd and 4th (running a dd lockup and override). Switch to 6 hds and the slippong and miss shifts seems better. I still don't see the issue pulling the lever with the ASV shorties. I do travel for a living so I guess I have got a pretty good grip ! Then again, I am predomonantly right handed and there is no need here to use both hands often . SP

ASV shorties and 6 HD springs here with a Terry Cable. No issues with the pull. Even my 12 year old rides it with only a little complaining. SP

He never said it was a new bike or fresh rebuild. Only the he changed the head. At which point he should have checked the squish. SP

Could also be the airscrew adjustment. Really, really doubt the float height has anything to do with it though. SP

It will likely cost you as much as a new crank will cost for the repair, unless your talking about a crank 7mm or larger. SP

How was the piston broken? Intake side, exhaust side? Bottom under the crown? I'd guess most likely too large of a piston clearance and you broke the skirt. SP

X2 Very nice. SP

A cub and serval are the same cylinder. The port timings are lower on the serval. A serval can be ported into a cub but a cub cannot be ported to a serval because the material is gone. I've got a 4 mil stock cyl aggressive dune port set up for duning from Kevin. One of the fastest running 4 mils around these parts until you put it up against a drag ported cylinder running down the drag strip. Perfect set up for a dune bike or for an MX set up. Dyned at around 80 hp on 110 octane after dialed in. I'd like to be faster on the drag strip but I will never change this set up. SP

Damn, maybe me and big E should check this out. SP

Yes and no. You can *de* tune it to a point but the centrifigal force at high RPM may prevent any clutch slip, and besides, why de tune it and try to make it do something opposite of what it is intended to do? SP

usually over 80 hp is when you need a lock up. But anytime you have too much clutch slip is when it is useful. If you don't have enough hp to slip it a little you won't like it. A little slip is good for a decent launch. SP

I agree with Shayne on this also. Having access to the clutch without removing the cover and dealing with the gasket and coolant is a huge plus. Granted, the slingshot is cheaper overall, but the stock cover that you're using has it's inherent weaknesses that are overcome with an aftermarket cover for a few extra bucks. SP

Don't think I could have said it better, Dave. Just always assume everyone knows what goes with a bigger crank. Andy put together a stock stroke serval last year that Zac ran. I do think the 4 mil serval nets more power though. None the less, if the 4 mil crank isn't set up right with the right pistons, domes/cut head etc, it will grenade or just not run. If short cuts are taken it may not even perform as well as a stock stroke. SP

I'd say either a 4mil stock cylinder or a serval for that type of riding. It is a very nice upgrade from stock stroke stock cylinder. You won't be at all disappointed. SP

Just because the crank is old doesn't mean it needs replaced. There are service limits for everything. Split your cases, check your crank for true, rod end play, rod end gap etc. If it is out of true or out of service limits then I would probably replace it as it is not cost effective to rebuild a stock crank over direct replacement. If it is within service limits I'd weld it and run it. If you purchase a new crank from a site sponsor, you can have them weld it. Some aftermarket cranks come welded. The last one I bought was from HJR and Kevin re welds any crank already welded. He says the welds are very light and he doesn't like them. SP

Last time, even a welded crank can fail. Your risk goes up without a welded crank. Risk goes down with a welded crank. You don't REALLY need to do anything except put gas in it to make it go. But eventually something is gonna fail. Welding the crank is like prevention. Same as oil in the tranny prevents bearing failure and broken gears. How fast can you drive with no oil in the tranny? How long can you drive it if you don't drive fast? What if I never take it out of first gear? Will it last longer? All relative questions but nobody is interested in the answers because we don't question whether or not to put oil in the tranny. Fact is, an unwelded crank will eventually fail. Will that happen before the crank bearings are bad and needs replaced anyway? Maybe, maybe not. Nobody can answer that. And to the cat that asked about a stronger after market crank......there is nothing wrong with a stock crank, it just doesn't come from yamaha welded. Most other cranks aren't welded either, that is an ounce of prevention most everyone takes. Want a stronger crank than stock? Go buy a billet aluminum crank. Lol! SP

Only bore if your cylinders require it. You can measure your cyclinders if you have a bore gauge to see where they are at and decide from there. Be sure to measure in at least 3 spots (top, middle and bottom) and in the x and y axis. Clymers has the acceptable limits. I wouldn't run a ported motor without a welded crank. Some may say you will be fine and you might not have any issues. Even a welded crank can fail but your level of risk goes down with a welded crank. Your level of risk goes up with more power and an unwelded crank. I'm not gonna commit to anymore than that. Lol! SP

When you advnace the timing, you are sending the ignition signal to the coil before the piston reaches top dead center. This initiates the combustion of the compressed air fuel charge early to obtain maximum thrust downward from the combustion cylce as soon as the piston passes TDC. With the advance set at zero, the piston has rolled through TDC and is already under some downward momentum when the combustion reaches full potential. If you change to race fuel or alky, they bun slower so you can start the ignition cycle even earlier to obtain a similar combustion. Advancing too much will result in the cuombustion reaching it's thrust downward before TDC which is known as detonation and obviously isn't good. As you can see, by advancing the timingyou place more stress the connecting components of the crank assembly. This can cause them to start to slip out of phase or even spread over time. This is the reason the cranks are welded together as we build higher HP engines. That being said, any unwelded, non keyed crank has the potential to slip. The more HP the motor can generate, the harder it performs, etc the greater the risk becomes. I would never have to make a call on how much timing to run on an unwelded crank because I would never use an unwelded crank. Just peace of mind for me. I would say you would be ok at 2 degrees of advance, maybe even 3 degrees. But there is no certainty to be had here. We know that cranks can slip but we never know how much we can stress them before they do. SP

This isn't a 4 stroke. You don't increase the bore size of a stock cylinder to increase displacement for more power. The size of a stock cylinder is 64mm bore. You can buy pistons up to 66.5mm. I would never run that large of a piston just because they aren't that reliable, IMO. 66mm is as large as I would go. Now, the only time to over bore is to clean up your cyls, correct for taper or oblong bore which will happen over time. This is the life of your cylinders. Once you reach what you decide is maximum, you need to buy new cyls or resleeve your old ones. The amount of increased displacement is so minimal you wont be able to tell by riding it. Increased performance comes from better flow and different port timings. This is what gets changed with porting your cylinders. port durations are adjusted, casting flaws are removed, intake and exaust ports are reshaped etc. This is where the real power comes from along with componants to compliment the port job like carbs, exhaust, reeds, etc. A good port job will run anywhere from $350 and up depending on how extensive and who does it as well as if it needs a new top end at the time. Personally, I wouldn't run with a good port job on an unwelded crank. A good inexpensive way to make it run more effecient and make more power is to increase the timing with an adjustable timing plate. About $26 on ebay and easy to install. Again, I wouldn't get to crazy with timing without a welded crank. If a crank seperates or comes out of phase it can cause some expensive damage. Splitting the cases and sprucing up the bottom end isn't as hard as you may think. My 12 year old can put his bottom end together after watching me do it. Good luck. SP

Um, actually a ball bearing isn't at all designed to take an axial load at all. An angular contact bearing is designed to take a load from both directions and a thrust bearing is designed to take an axial load. The bearing housing has nothing to do with the load the bearing can sustain. Just sayin....... SP

Ah, so the genius comment wasn't meant to be taken personally.