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spurdy

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Everything posted by spurdy

  1. Any port job should have a welded crank. Would be such a waste to go through all that and have the crank spread. And it isn't a question of "if it will happen", it is "when will it happen"". The banshee lower ends are cake. My 13 year old did his. SP
  2. It will probably be ok with the PCs on it with a 4 over. It will be more fun as you do more work to the motor. SP
  3. I have alwasy run steel sprockets. Why did you go with a plus 4 on a stock motor with no porting? Maybe you will like it but I know I wouldn't have any fun riding it. You at least need some pipes, advanced timing, high pompression or something, unless you just don't like the front end to come up. Get the longest chain with the smallest sprocket configuration so you can have the most flexibility. Then just add another master link if you need more chain. SP
  4. Hard to tell but it doesn't look like anything has been done to the angle in the transfer. Or even cleaned up. SP
  5. It will be a little higher geared thn 13/41 which is what I woudl recommend for your motor (depending on how well it actually runs) for the sand. I would try it and see how it does before aking changes. Going down one tooth in the front is almost equall to going up 3 teeth in the rear. Obviously chenging the front is easier and usually can have the chain adjustment done at the carrier. Changing several teeth on the rear will involve changing the chain length. SP
  6. Shayne, give me a call. I have an extra site. Somehow I bought two sites and only need one of them. You can buy one from me if you want. SP Lol! Headlights showed up today, Ethan says "thanks"! SP
  7. Can't everybody weld these days? It's so simple.....hahahah!
  8. Or re route your stinger tubes. We have done this with shearers and the clearence is nice. Come up over the top of the carbs and down the middle under the center of the seat. I have the CDI and regulator remounted up front and stingers out the center in the back. You can do this with or without silencers. Cheaper than buying a new set of pipes. You might want to talk to a builder to find out how long the pipe should be as this can effect performance also. We got the length for mine fro Cam at Redline. SP
  9. It's always just easier to ask the question then do the work. But there was a reason you made the chart so it isn't cool to infer that people are dumb when they use it SP
  10. Really hard to tell from the photos you have linked. The intake is the least area of attention when most builders port. Most of the power is made from the transfers. and the durations. As mentioned before, you can get an idea from measuring the floors and cieclings of the ports but a degree wheel works best to ge the durations. Most builders can finesse cylinders if there is material left. SP
  11. http://bansheehq.com/images/yamaha-banshee-bore-stroke-chart.png
  12. He'll never be able to turn a 16 or 17 in the sand. The sand takes a lot of power to ride in. Being that your motor is stock you would probably like a 13/41 gearing for the sand, otherwise you're not gonna have any low end at lower rpms. I didn't jump back to stock gearing 14/41 on my duner motor unitl I went to an aggressively dune ported 4 mil motor. Without having that low end in the low RPMs trail riding in the sand sucks because everytime you come out of a turn or hit the throttle to pull the front end up the motor falls on it's face and your grabbing for a lower gear. I run 16/44 on my drag bike in the sand but it makes quite a lot of power. I would start with stock gearing for your trail riding depending on how tight they are and try 13/41 for the dunes until you get more motor work done. SP
  13. 121 bitch! We be neighbors! I'll bring our dog this trip. Tyler can have a cuddle buddy! Lol!
  14. What do you mean you swapped the RS connector? You saying the stator was ok but the connector was bad?
  15. LSPS sites are $30 like Tyler said. State side is cheaper but you have to deal with the rangers and sheriffs, etc. You can buy flags at the LSPS shop for $20 each. $10 a day to ride per rider. Beer is typically pretty spendy around there because they can charge what they want. Weather can do anything, it's central OK. HQ weekend keeps moving closer to summer hoping for something warmer consitently (LOL). All we can do is hope! Should be a good turn out this year by the looks of things. SP
  16. Somewhat correct. The CDI doesn't provide spark for ignition. It provides the primary signal to the coil and the coil provides what is considered the spark to the spark plugs for ignition. You can check the trigger from the pickup to the CDI with a Multimeter. Not sure there is a way to test the CDI. The clymers tells how to test the coil but I don't think it is a very accurate test. Best way to test these items is to install them on a known running bike and see if they continue to work. Don't put known good components on your bike to test in case you have more than one problem. Best troubleshooting tip is to buy another Banshee. Lol! SP
  17. Fucking 4 hour flight on Southworst. Tyler sure knows how to travel SP
  18. The flywheel shouldn't come off really easy. Does it wobble? Could be that the pick up gap is changing. A damaged pickup or stator cannot damage the coil, but could short out the CDI. The CDI is solid state though, so it should either work or not work. Sometimes heat can effect solid state components but I don't think this is the case. Typically the same thing with the coil. I would suspect inconsistant pick up gap or bad stator.
  19. Typically you know what premix you like to run and then you tune your carbs on that mixture. Unless you are making drastic changes, I don't think you will have an issue. SP
  20. That's likely nothing more than a dirty set of contacts inside the housing. The contacts for the run stop need to be open to run. When they are closed it grounds the ignition signal and no more spark. Intermittent spark is usually a mis adjusted pickup. SP
  21. With good compression , fuel, air and spark is all that is needed to run. If you you actually have spark the wiring is correct. If it was a kill switch, key switch, or tors you wouldn't get spark. It is a logical troubleshooting process. SP
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