spurdy

No, we are coming back Easter Sunday. Not gonna make snakehunt this year. SP

We are rolling in on the eve of the 23rd, staying through Easter Weekend. SP

Are you planning on heading out there Cam? SP

Guys at our factory swear by mixing anti seize and locktite. Makes no sense to me and I have never tried it. But that's how they assemble stainless bolts into plated steel and aluminum. Must be a German thing or something....lol! SP

Yeah, I don't run anything but haulers SP

I guess to each his own. I have never had an issue with stainless bolts. Personally I think people over tighten them and this causes issues. I have put together several motors and a few bikes and all my fasteners are stainless. Never a drop of anti seize on any of them Mostly blue Loctite and on occasion a little red. Green retaining compound on bearings and such. Lapping compound on the flywheel to crank, grease on all my lip seals, never any anti seize. Like I said to each his own, I wont knock it if it works for you, but I am gonna continue to practice what works for me. Guess that leaves the decision up to each person. Not sure your gonna get a general consensus here to prove one way is better than another. SP

I run 14, 41 on my duner and 16, 44 on my drag bike. Motors are in my signiture.

6, 7, 8, 9, 10......2, 4, 6, 8, 10, yeah 10 paddle tires....LMMFAO! And a bag full of "well, I don't really remember what these are called but we went through a bunch of them....ah, now I am relaxed and ready for bed.... SP

yeah, seems you couldn't remember where the garage was.....Lol! SP

You didn't read anything about anti sieze in my post! Lol! To each his own. I'll use anti sieze on the things I want to come apart easily. Damn sure wont use it on bolts to hold my Banshee together. A little blue locktight, and don't over tighten and you'll be fine. I think the biggest problem is people are used to carbon steel bolts which are harder. They over tighten stainless and the threads stretch. Now, when you go to remove them the 1mm, 1.25mm or 1.5mm thread pitch is different where the bolt is stretched and the threads gual in the female part and you have a big problem. SP

I think your missing the part where you torque the M6 bolt "farmboy" tight even though it is tightened with locktight...Lol! I think people just put too much poop behind them and stretch the bolts. SP

Probably should let you guys that don't know, Ethan is 13. He tore this "rolling chassis" down from an old broke POS at the end of 2009. Since then, we salvaged what could have been salveaged from the motor and put it together with my old cut tranny, new bearings and all that with the ported cylinders it came with. Added little things like timing plate, pancake bearing etc that it didn't have. Had the frame PCed and then slowly put it back together. He saved and paid for about half of the stuff you see here. I bought the front end for him for x-mas but most of the rest he has bought and built himself through working, saving, trading and selling parts. This has been his project and now he has something to be proud of. It is a 66mm bore stock stroke ported motor with a single 33 PWK with PT mids netting 170 static compression. LSR front end on Fox Floats on a stock swing arm. Look for him at the dunes! Lol! SP

Yeah, I think he's got a deal worked out with an ole boy from Milford Ks on that...lol! SP

No, I was piggy backing on your punctuation comment, meant to double quote. A moroon is a fat fingered attempt at moron...lol! SP

Well, after a little over a year of re assembly, Ethan finally finished his first ground up Banshee Build! First dune trip 2 weeks away! SP

Are you saying to use locktight? Being that is a double negative? I locktight all of my bolts, stainless or carbon and have never had an issue. We use stainless at work on everything being our equipment goes into the food indusrty and I have never heard of so many complaints about stainless bolts except on here. SP

Complete depends on where and how you wanna ride. How much power you make etc. A 4 mil CT ported motor doesn't give near enough details. And there probably isn't a "best" combination. SP

Then do us a favor and try a little punctuation in your posts so you don't sound like an uneducated moroon talking about shit that you abviously have no clue about. I mean who would think it would be ok to remove the spacer plate. Like that wouldn't have an effect on anything. SP

I made an aluminum bracket and mounted it under the stock tank rear mount for the cdi (like Finch). Coil I left in the same place as it is practical. No regulator and no lights. That is a perfect place for the CDI because it attaches direct to the stator without the extension harness. Everything is right there close except the your run/stop circuit. SP

Do it once and do it right.....Lol!

Nope. Set up correctly there is no reason you would need another gear. We ride built banshees all day running overrides with 5 gears and never even notice 6th is gone. SP

Cam is right on with everything but the lecs, lol. Don't get me wrong, they are good carbs and Cam loves to tune them. On the other hand, I hate to tune them. I like my PWKs like Tyler said. I run 35s and 39s. Yes, the lecs have less adjustments with only screwing the metering rod in or out, and maybe enough time with a set and I'd like them too. Just had better luck with the Keihins. Did I see a timing plate on your list? That is a must. SP

I have a n HJR 4 mil duner with shearers, 35 PWKs on V2s, 6 degrees timing, 170 compression, 6 over on elkas, dunable override behind a tusk on a dd lockup. Pretty good duner set up. SP

Amen to that!