spurdy

It is near perfect. It is just dusty. No chrome peeling or scratches or anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a craftsman and a lisle and they both read exactly identical every time I've compared them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

8 over metaltech. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anybody have a set of skat trak terrain trak tires on Yamaha pattern wheels? Or tires by themselves? Prefer an 8" tire 21-22". Preferably with 10 bars but would settle for 8-9. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Must be something impervious to petroleum and stays flexible. Order it from Amazon or eBay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^^over achiever. Lol! [emoji482] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got ya. Sorry about that. I don't have any spares. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought you wanted a pic of one. Didn't know you were looking to purchase. My bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Google is awesome. It sure if the rotation thing would work so well since, in theory, there will be no stress on the carrier due to the bearings. How else would all these extremely high hp motors not destroy JTs (and others) lightened carriers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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12.9 is a class for metric bolts and is a higher grade than a grade 8 for standard bolts. Grade 8 is similar to class 10.9. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are they grade 8? If not, use grade 8 bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So they do? Or they don't? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are bushed on each end with a rubber insert and will flex. If you didn't remove them from the chassis then they would still be oriented correctly. It is easy enough to tell by looking at them how they should go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. He was right. One end is welded straiGHt and one is angled. Depends on how you disassembled it whether or not it would pose an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One side is flanged and one side has a rubber bushing. I don't think you can flip it end for end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even if the bolt is messed up, you have the bolt from the other motor mount stay as a reference. If the bolt isn't good, it should also be replaced, obviously. Personally, I wouldn't use wd40, but I have cutting fluid readily available. If I didn't have the right shit, I'd use wd40 before I used vegetable oil because anything is better than nothing along that line of thinking. Depending on your ability and how comfortable you are you will have to decide the position the hole is at for tapping. I would be afraid to it on the ground in the dark, but I've tapped hundreds of holes. No step for a stepper there. But do what you're comfortable with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should be an M10x1.25 tap. The existing threads should get your tap started straight. Since it doesn't bind until close to the end. Also, make sure there is no shit in the hole before you start. Hopefully that isn't the issue. And use some cutting fluid. Good lube is your best friend when tapping or drilling. I don't see any reason why you couldn't do it with the motor in the chassis. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just run a tap down the hole. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LMMFAO! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uninflammorable is not a word. But I knew what you meant as you can see I referenced high temp ceramic paint. I think plasti dip sounds like a grand plan. [emoji1303] You guys and your questions. You ask, we tell. Then you come back with "well, what about this, what if I did that?....bla fucking bla! Go try your ideas and come back with results then! Don't ask advice because you don't know and then question the advice given. FFS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uninflammorable? I've always used high temp ceramic paint from any parts store. Always held up ok. Or you can powder coat them if you can find some that will. Most powder coat guys don't want to mess with cleaning them. The pipes really don't get that hot. Not like a 4 stroke head pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually, as temperature drops we feed more fuel through the PJ circuit to richin up the motor to prevent deto. Now depending on his warmer/colder span, that could very well cause his issue. Although you are right, typically, timing, comp, etc. but we only have limited info to go off of here. Broken ceramic = deto Info given was temperature change. Can only add together using the variables given to come to a logical conclusion. Anything else is speculation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure on the compression issue. Could be from sitting over the winter and rings a little sticky?? Broken ceramic on a plug is a sign of detonation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Never seen or heard of this. Get a simple air flow meter (carb sync tool) and set them to have the same airflow at the same throttle position. Many you tube vids of this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk