Tedder

Nobody looking to freshen up their clutch for next season or drag guy's who ALWAYS need extra fibers in the track box?

I have super special clutches listed in the for sale section lol

Great deal TDR has a sale on our TDR reeds 40% off all TDR brand reeds untill 5pm the 24th Black Friday. We have Banshee reeds for the stock cages, Turbo reeds , alcohol reeds. Call us at 941-505-0800 e-mail us at tdrinc@embarqmail.com of message me. more stuff to be added??

No worries when getting reeds from TDR I've always been happy with my purchases and customer service

I also have 14 new YZF 1000 fibers that I got from Tim @ Titan Racing that I'll sell

Brand new Driveline Performance clutch plates Have 14 YZF 1000 style fibers and 6 steel plates *no springs* Paid $105.50 Will take $85.00 shipped (buyer pays fees) in the lower 48 only

$250.00

This is what we put on the wifes asphalt Banshee when she started out with stock carbs. From Rocky Mountain ATV: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1429/6800/Uni-Air-Filter-POD-Clamp-On?s=1963

Yes, A properly cut tranny that's not being abused in the way it's being used won't "eat" forks.

Said a mouthful right there. Not critical for most guy's applications but if you're as anal about clutch tuning as I am for my asphalt bikes then dealing with variances in used springs is a real freakin treat lol.

^^ Correct - If the mains aren't drilled and you're truly running 155 mains with alcohol then you'll be way to lean

Any BHQ Sponsor can help you out. I get my clutch stuff from FAST Racing.

I think Bryan mentioned a little about scotch pad prep earlier in the thread which works well but be careful when it comes to blasting the steels. Different textures can be had depending on the media used but fibers can be destroyed quickly with an overly aggressive surface. Especially if you're setup for slippage on a 9000rpm dump the clutch hole shot. As a bracket racer I've found that I really like the standard vibratory finish that most steels have when new and will fine tune after some break in time as engagement characteristics and ET's change quickly and a lot as the surface "settles in".

I really like the spray on CRC white lithium grease for holding the orings. Once the carrier has dried off they stick in place pretty well.

PM sent

.

Wow, This from an HQ Sponsor? If that's the whole story then shame on them.

Wow, Learn something new every day.... After a little checking I see that Hinson Banshee cushions are the standard round style just like the others. All these years I thought Hinson used these funky shaped proprietary pucks like this. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=L7xh7w1a&id=5BE95CBA5E2A4C396CC8F063965E2CBB07E17CB5&thid=OIP.L7xh7w1aeWjUZ8KhE0_jAQEsEs&q=hinson+clutch+basket+cushion+images&simid=608027685417976365&selectedIndex=2&qpvt=hinson+clutch+basket+cushion+images&ajaxhist=0 When I first replaced mine I fought with them like crazy but have found that if I just barley started one side then used a flat blade screwdriver I could easily get the opposite side to start and they'd push right down into place. Hope that help's makes it easier for you. I've not used the Chariot kit but all of the stuff that I've ever got from Jerry has been 1st rate. I just installed a set of Mattoon cushions and really like how dense they are but I didn't use the backing plate and larger screws that require drilling and tapping oversize. Instead, I used a Hinson plate and bolt kit that had the same size screws that my original billet basket used.

Does Chariot offer Hinson style cushions? I thought Jerry (Chariot) and Mattoon only had the standard round pucks.

The 2.86 stock ratio seems to be pretty popular with a lot of clutch tuners. I mainly run 1/4 mile and use multi-stage clutches which have tower springs to control the lockup arm application as opposed to most other designs which start applying pressure to the outer pressure plate as soon as the basket starts spinning. I use 2.68's which spin the basket at a little faster RPM than the OEM ratio. Banshee basket speeds aren't high to begin with so it's tricky balancing arm application during launch with having enough clamping force at shifts (especially 5-6). A bonus to using that ratio is it also allowed me to drop one tooth in front.

Yes Sir, My mistake lol

Your loss

When we built our first asphalt bike we tried running a Marvin Shaw at full pressure on a no link arm but because of the shocks steep angle the hole shot forces would cause the back of the bike to dip hard and rebound back sharply making it a bitch to ride.

Jeff at FAST (Site Sponsor) has some nice K&N knockoffs for way less $$ https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/atv/yamaha/filter-6.html?filter=44

Are you still looking? My wife and I run asphalt and she's decided to hang up her leathers. I started pulling her bike apart tonight and will be selling her polished 35mm PWK's with long cable adjusters, A&S billet bowls and intakes. I do have 3 new cables that are the best available IMO but they're expensive and I won't part with them for any less than what I paid. PM me if interested.