Tedder

What make carbs? Mikuni - Keihin

Still a few old timers here. I take it you've been out of the Banshee game a while? Stick around so we have someone new to pick on for a change lol

1/4 mile is what I do and I'd be glad to help if I can. I assume since you're racing at a track you're running bracket? Shoot me a pm.

My son has a ported 4mil Serval that runs great. 90% of his riding is back roads. Really fun bike.

In my opinion lockups are overrated and often not needed. For what you have I'd do a head with upgraded domes, adjustable timing plate and possibly V-4 reeds then start saving for your future build.

I like the solid non-removable tip 8 series with gas and 9 (EG)series in my alcohol motors. Here are the part numbers for standard NGK ES series plugs: Solid tip - B8ES #3683 BR8ES #3961 B9ES #7148 BR9ES #3194 Removable tip - B8ES #2411 BR8ES #5422 B9ES #2611 BR9ES #5722 * R denotes Resistor plug

Refers to solid or removable tips

I would have said that's plenty tight. My asphalt motors are all in the 50's

Serval all the way for what you do. Cubs have a narrow powerband drag port.

My old original GoPro Hero is still going strong after hundreds of passes down the track, multiple scuba dives and snorkel trips. Even has the original battery yet.

I'd contact Jerry at Chariot: https://www.ebay.com/str/chariotperformance Or TDR: http://www.bansheesuperstore.com/banshee.html

I think most will say Mattoon cushions are the most durable and their backing plate with larger screws most rugged. Until recently I'd been using the red cushions with a Hinson backing plate (from TDR) and standard screws without any issues other than the cushions do need replaced after a couple of race seasons.

Yes Keno - One of those is what I'm talking about.

That roller bearing "upgrade" was a bad deal for me. The surface under the bushing isn't smooth like a race needs to be.

Years ago Two-Stroke Shop in Australia sold the bushings separate but they're no longer in business. Besides Redline I've never seen anyone else offer it.

For sure you don't want it to drag or be tight unless you're looking for a wild ride! Most machine shops have reamers and can "fit" it to the sleeve ( Spacer 278-16181-01-00). If it's distorted to bad you'll have to pickup a good used one or get new from Redline. Either way don't pound it in or out with a socket.

Calvin casted for specific gaskets but most Builders adjust the porting to use a .020 http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3

Stock springs will hold a surprising amount of power.

Back the bolts out past the split. Put a penny in the split and snug the bolt up again the penny to separate the hub just a bit. Remove. ^^ Yes sir but be a high roller and use a nickel

Both of our 1/4 mile asphalt bikes are setup -1 narrower and +2 Forward plus 14* positive caster. Don't know what all types of riding you'll be doing but with those specs on stock frame mounting points the geometry is very much for a straight line ride only.

Geez, I don't know why I ever bother posting to help others. What I share is first hand factual information and not heresay BS like 80% of what get's posted. And yes - Super Techniplate is hygroscopic that will rust your crank in short order under the right conditions. It doesn't take a full winter of storage. Our race season runs from the end of April through November (usually less) depending on the weather here in Northeast Ohio. We used Klotz Uplon for purging to help with the rusting problem.

Don't know where you're located but in our Ohio climate you will get rust formation on the internals with Super Techniplate if it sit's much.

Saw this build was never completed and brought it over from FB in case anyone's interested. Click on Hazzards link below for more info. Wes Hazzard Any interest??? 10mm cub build 1-6 override may part out but would like to sell complete $4000.00 The list of shit on this bike is long PM me for details Hasn’t seen the track so no numbers.. was headed in the 1/4 mile direction though no porting on cylinders either so motor with a different trans could be used for whatever probably 8 hours tops on top end everything else has never left the shop unfortunately

I'd also agree that the rules need followed.

I think most guys have a tendency to overtighten bolts or nuts so that plus aluminum parts get many into trouble. I'm into my asphalt multi-stage A LOT and have used an inch pound torque wrench on those little bolts every single time. The same inner basket has been used in my 4mil since 2008 and I've literally made hundreds of adjustments. Never once has a bolt broke or basket leg stripped. I don't see what the big deal is to follow torque specs.