Tedder

If they don't leak don't mess with them!

Once to the top before I just pack it away..Very heavy duty design.

Brand new still in the package. HD Terrycable $25.00 shipped in the US only.

Plug locks should NEVER be needed. They are one of the worst things ever offered for sale.

Looking for new or used?

Paypal info sent robert0762 why don't you recoup some back by helping out bansheeboie

I've got 8 full C-clips that I got from FAST Racing and never used. They replace the half clip on the crank bearing and can also be used on the output shaft bearing (sprocket side). They sell for $5.00 each - I'll take $20.00 shipped in the US for all

2 for $15.00 shipped in the US only

Clam shell style snowmobile trailer - It's worked great for us. Very light (aluminum) Tilts to load/unload. I had an aluminum box put in behind the bikes that holds two fuel jugs and two milk crates of track stuff and we're working on a sunshade attached off the back.

We have an eyebolt in the trailer floor at each end of the bike. Rachet straps from the front to each footpeg and one that wraps around the base of the rear strut to the back eyebolt. We've clocked over 6900 miles with that setup. Our wheelie bars are bungeed under the bikes between the eyebolts also.

to my knowledge those clips are a must! i wouldnt even think about puting 2gether a motor without them. if ur goin 4mil i wud suggest getting the FULL c clips from jeff at fast. Its a larger clip that secures the bearing alot better than the half clip. Idk how ur old motor survived so lng without them, lol. ** I have 5 or 6 of the full C clips (brand new) if anyones interested. Shoot me a PM **

.015 (not .012) Cub cylinder base gaskets made by Cometic 2 for $18.50 shipped in the US only

Paypal gift for eccentric bolt sent..Thanks ** Oct 12 update ** Resent payment to your corrected paypal

Run that thing! It passes the ldt and will be fine. Save the new crank for a needed rebuild later or new project.

I've opened our asphalt motors many times without pulling the head or cylinders. Take an old towel and fold it into a nice thick layer to set under the head and use a block of wood under the rear motor mount. If you have any trouble or questions shoot me a pm.

My offer still stands. LMK

No problem. Thanks anyway.

How about $120.00 as a paypal gift and you can ship them parcel post.

If you don't have any luck selling them I'd go $100.00 plus shipping to 44062

I run 1/4 mile at 120mph+ and ALWAYS balance our American Racers with a bubble balancer and stick on weights. I had to do something because they varied from little vibration to so bad that you could see flashes of daylight under them as they went down track.

Billet bowls??? If so, make sure the nose of the float isn't catching on the sharp edge of the upper adapter plate. I've had to lightly file there so the float didn't get hung up.

I'm pretty much on the same page as Savage. Great explanation on baseline. Because probe placement has such an effect you should NEVER GO BY TEMP READINGS ALONE to tune. Get a baseline established. I run alcohol on asphalt and use a DT54K. I agree with Savages general temp recomendations but I recently bought a single screen for my wifes gas bike and Digitron tech support quoted much higher temps for that. Since your going gas you might want to call them.

Keep in mind that depending on what ignition system your using you need factor in the base timing to calculate your overall curve. That being said, 2 degrees isn't much and I wouldn't get to hung up on it being an absolute because of a dyno number. Dyno's are a great tuning tool but things change day to day (sometimes hour to hour) that will effect a "best" setting such as heat and humidity.

That's not cheap plugs...You are detonating the hell out of it and are going to distroy it.

Yep, thats normal. Once you torque the nut down with the spacer and sprocket in place it'll snug right up.