Tedder

I keep this in my shop to remind me that lean is mean. This damage was caused from light detonation that was felt right away and throttled out. In addition to what you see of this Hot Rod crank bearing a tiny sliver of the race found its way into the combustion chamber and torn up the piston, dome and nikasil.

I do have a Pingle but I always removed the screen when I used them on my alcohol asphalt Banshee's. PM me if you're interested in it.

Better get to the root of the detonation problem before you tear her up.

I'm not pulling the one off of the tank but let me check to see if I have another.

I pulled a good OEM tank with a dual Pingle off of my wifes Asphalt Banshee if you're looking to replace that Vito's.

I've been told by two builders who make pipes not to cut the singers any shorter than 10"

Agree X 3 At 125+ on asphalt OEM 's have always stopped me just fine. Spend your money on chassis or performance upgrades that will make a difference.

Assuming the jetting was good before I doubt those upgrades would make such a huge difference on your current running issue. If lean pilot circuit is the problem - *There are always exceptions* such as carbs that sat around a long time with fuel in them and dried out/gummed up but most often if the pilot circuit is lean it's from a piece of foreign material stuck in the jet itself. You should be able to see daylight through the jet when held up to the light.

Check the pilot circuit/jets. If one or both are plugged it'll act that way.

Other than running Blaster pistons in my junk I don't know much about them but Banshee cases are matched sets and I suspect Blasters would be also?

The Direct Drive cover works with factory pegs but the brake lever needs adjusted down so if you don't like it low some modification needs done.

Damn, Thought I'd update this. Where has the time gone! I'll turn 64 in 4 months

Pancake bearings are great if running a steel ball and ever since having a ceramic ball shatter in 2006 I've used the OEM steel

With them side by side you can see a difference.

For sure you want smooth steels. Dimpled have been proven to hold less under load on the dyno. Yes Barnett does have Std and heavy duty springs. I have both if you need some.

Yes you may still have trouble under heavy load. The lockup's using centrifugal force and weights to keep the clutch pack compressed and you're trying to manhandle enough leverage to pull the outer pressure plate away from the pack.

In response to a great question by RagunCajun I thought I'd throw out some trans info including various shifting problems and fixes I've had over the years. His quote "please report back once the pro mod is in. I went from an override to pro mod so I don't know how much better a pro mod is over stock." I'm the odd man out here running airshifted auto 1-4 m5&6 overrides (asphalt) but my son runs 6 speed promods for dirt drags, asphalt and secondary road riding which is legal here in Ohio. My overrides require ignition kill to shift into the non-cut 5th and 6th gears. Without unloading the tranny gear pressure no upshift will happen. My son ran stock trannies for years before upgrading to promods. When it comes to making super-fast "fan the clutch" type shifts his promods are without a doubt easier and far more reliable in making constant shifts over his OEM's but other than that situation I personally don't feel a promod has a great advantage... With regards to the following keep in mind that the troubles we ran into over the years were under race, wide open throttle type conditions/situations: The FIRST thing either of us will do when we run into missed quick shift situations at the track is change the oil. When the oil gets contaminated with clutch material it seems to cause problems with the smooth sliding internals when under pressure. I especially have to watch this in my asphalt Banshee's with multi-stage clutches which slip out of the hole because clutch material sheds off so much faster than usual. *Something I started doing long ago - Because of the contamination I drain the trans at the end of each race day and filter it through a fine paint strainer then let it sit for months to completely settle anything out. When I fill my tranny I use 1 litre of fresh new oil and top off with the strained. As far as transmission mechanical stuff goes: I'd say for sure that one of the most important adjustments to check if you're having problems is the shift/change lever but make certain that all the individual components are good and within spec because it isn't normal for that adjustment to change to the point of causing shifting trouble unless something is broken or heavily worn. A couple of weak links in Banshee transmissions are (1st) OEM second gears can be broke even with small motors. Be there done that in as small as a 358 cub. Robison billets are great imo and I'll leave it at that... (2nd) 3rd wheel gear has a very narrow area that rides on the splined output shaft and once galled shifting nightmares occur. I recommend Molly paste on assembly. A tube will last you forever. Moroso 35000 Moroso Moly Paste Assembly Lubes | Summit Racing Long winded for sure and I don't want to come off as a know it all because I'm still learning with these things. Just hoping that someone might pickup some useful information on my first hand experiences and maybe spark some interest back at the HQ!!

Good question RagunCajun. I'm going to start a thread of some tranny issue's and fixes that I've had over the years.

I've run way worse looking with no issues.

It wasn't two different bearings on the same crank - It was two failures of different brands at two different times. The first was an OEM crank and bearings and the second a Hot Rod.

NTN 305E NJ305EGIC3

Beginning late 2006 due to light detonation at the stripe and cracking the outer races of two different brand ball bearings I started running NTN TZ's on both ends of my 1/4 mile alcohol cub cranks (with straight cuts). I've always done yearly tear down inspection/rebuilds and every single time I end up replacing the TZ's because of brown coloring which I assumed was heat generated from roller skid. I've not run for a few years now but if I ever go back I'm going with 8 ball Koyo. The TZ's are rugged but they have a lot higher rolling resistance and just can't take the quick acceleration and sustained 11,000+ rpm of our drag motors.

Have you made any progress on tracking down the problem?

imo loosening the clutch isn't the fix on those big motors that should power through anything lol. I figure you've tried a lot of the "usual" stuff so I thought I'd throw this out there. After traveling to a track in Michigan years ago one of my asphalt bikes developed a terrible fall on it's face bog out of the blue. Out of frustration and as a last resort I cranked the air screws a 1/4 turn and it fixed it right up. Worth a try. Good luck with it.

Gusto's correct My son and I did a bunch of reed testing including some for HQ Sponsor FAST Racing Nothing ET'd faster on our asphalt Banshee's than V-Force II's That only applies to WOT operation. On our stock stroke/unported cylinders with only bolt ons and ported 4mil Serval the V-Force 4's are the way to go. They give up a little on top end but low and mid range stomped all over the 2's.