Tedder

I cut the PWK springs on my asphalt bikes to lighten the pressure. Worked great but don't take a full coil each time or you'll trash them real quick.

Why not use them? They'll hold more fuel than the others.

I've got a brand new pair of Boss Billet bowls still sealed in the shrink wrap package. $100.00 shipped to you. *You pay the fees*

Terrycable YAM35001TH Brand new in the package $20.00 shipped in the lower 48

Who cut the domes?

Pinpoint exactly which it is and I'll send one N/C if you cover the shipping. Send me a PM

Got it. I'll send a pm tomorrow when it's on the way. Thanks

PM me an address and I'll ship it out. You can send me a check once you have it.

$50.00 shipped in the lower 48 only

http://www.mtceng.com/index.php/faqs/18-faqs-clutch-lock-up/101-how-much-clearance-is-needed-between-the-lockup-arms-and-the-pressure-plate-buttons

I've got a pair of very similar looking plugs and have had a few not quite as bad but IMO there's no doubt the cause was a lean condition and since the other side looked rich and wet most likely there's an air leak. Unfortunately from the sound of it I suspect your "shop" will never admit blame. I'd do a leakdown test before anything else.

Is it the inner hub/pressure plate that's tight which would tie into a tranny input shaft bind of some kind or is it the basket not spinning free which would be more towards a bushing issue.

You can get thicker steels which will fatten the clutch pack (increase the stack height) and move the outer pressure plate closer to the lockup or machine down the "legs" on either the inner pressure plate or the lockup itself.

Outstanding! Congrats to you and Justin. Wish we were there for the celebration in the King pit last night .

Yes, With the Hinson basket you're stuck with their ratio.

I don't think it's an oil issue Bryan. The multi-stage arms shouldn't back off much in XX milliseconds and the clutch plates don't need to release to make an upshift anyway. In fact you don't want the clutch to "unclamp" or you'll get that classic slip into those higher gears. A short ignition kill should be all you need to unload the gear pressure just enough for it to easily click up to the next gear. Something else is going on IMO. As you know I'm really busy but give me a quick call tomorrow.

Thanks Matt. Glad I could help.

quadgod211 contacted me earlier and has first chance at them but I won't split them up.

Still got these

If you want it - It's yours PM me whenever your ready. Thanks

Both kits for $120.00 total

That's for the pair 2 rod kits for $120.00 total

I have these 115mm Wiseco rod kits in the for sale section. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180168&hl=

(2) - Wiseco WPR178 long rod kits +5 (115mm) Original boxes aren't the greatest but the kits are still in the factory sealed packages. $120.00 shipped in the lower 48 Can supply pictures but I won't cut open the packages. Wiseco Connecting Rod Precision-trued to OEM specifications and factory assembled Connecting rods are double-forged to maintain superior dimensional consistency through improved grain flow Shot-peening eliminates residual stresses and smoothly blends the rod forging surfaces Corrosion-resistant surface treatment Top and bottom end rod bores case hardened to 58-62 RC to optimize bearing running surface Crank pin bearing radial running clearance is optimized to ensure maximum performance Precision honing ensures ultra-round bearing surface Precision-engineered oiling slots maximize rod strength and bearing life Double-drilled small ends provide the piston pin with extra lubrication and cooling, reducing distortion of top end due to thermal transfer from the piston Silver-coated bronze phosphor thrust washers with dimpled design increase oil retention and reduce friction between rod and washer interface Crank pin bearings are manufactured with the highest-quality hot-rolled steel -- case hardened to 58-62 RC Caged needle roller bearings provide the highest possible RPM Precision-machined crank webs Crankshaft comes with top-end bearing Connecting rod kits come complete with rod, crank pin, crank pin bearing, top-end bearing and thrust washers

Not specifically directed towards mx1986's build but I'd like to hear opinions of what exactly needs to stay (and how much of it) to constitute "stock" frame.