Tedder

OK Thanks anyway

Thanks John but I'd like to stay away from anything that's rigid as solid metal but with more backbone than factory rubber. It's motor twist on my asphalt launches that I'm trying to control.

Sorry my description of what I'm looking for wasn't clear. It's the bottom dog bone mounts under the motor that I'd like to stiffen up

Does anyone sell polyurethane motor mount bushings for Banshee's? Looking for something that's tough with very little give but not metal.

Unless you're a Builder with a light weight jockey looking to do some impressive advertising I don't know why anyone who gets into any form of Banshee drag racing wouldn't run their own stuff. Just because your a big guy doesn't take the thrill away. And Guns - They run bracket sand drags at Bull Run Raceway so you'll be able to fit right in.

Any nice one's out there?

These will do ya: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/991/-/2983/4-115-Douglas-.125-Wheel-10X8-3.0-%2B-5.0?term=1087590018

When my son goes to the track he runs 19.0/8.0 - 10GT on his heavy full framed banshee like yours and my wife and I run 20.0/8.0 - 10GT's on our asphalt Banshee's. SD-23 is there softest compound. We deal with Boubin Tire http://www.americanracertires.com/store.php?cid=18&page=2

High 11's are absolutely doable with a 421 gas cub in a heavy frame with no lockup and a stock tranny. I'm not familiar with the Kendra tires but I suspect they're not going to do you right. I'd also be very careful about launching in 2nd on the asphalt. We broke stock second gears easily when taking off in 1st with a little 358 cub. Thing is, You got your feet wet. I think you did good for the first time out. Did you have a good time?

We've run both on our asphalt bikes and other than some low/mid range tuning difference because of different slides there was no better performance edge from either. I agree with sheerider11 - Go with the standard PWK's since there's lots more and much better tuning recommendations to be found on web for them.

I agree. A mix of straight cuts and Hot Rod cranks are all I've ever had trouble with. Usually working off a couple of thousands or so is all it takes.

It's not that uncommon of a problem. I carefully work one side of the key on a good file.

Limited places left, PM sent

Some interesting Bel-ray info here: http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-engine-oil-bel-ray-gear-oil-differences-explained

Most people don't know this but Bryan and I first met because of clutch tuning. When Chuck Wilburn originally came out with the Banshee multi-stage he put us in touch with each other and the rest as they say is history. Since then we've become very good friends and although living at opposite ends of the Country we've managed to meet up at several racetracks, visited in our homes and burned up countless cell phone batteries discussing clutch tuning lol. Even though our basics are much the same we each go about things a little differently so I thought I'd share how I've gone about primary clutch spring tuning to show that there's more than one way to "skin a cat" and give others something to think about. I've got 3 multi-stage units and multiple inner/outer baskets with most machined with slight differences. Anyone who's tuned clutches knows what a huge difference in lockup performance can be had from minor spring pressure changes. I needed an easy way of getting fast, repeatable results capable of registering very small pressure changes. This has been my simpleton way of doing things over the years. *All* of my measurements are taken at a 1" compressed height. My drill press has an adjustable stop built in (with digital readout) so that once set with my 1" gauge I can quickly check a basket full of springs.

Barnett used to make the Dirt Digger with Organic material fibers. It used a Kevlar inner and outer fiber to protect the aluminum OEM pressure plates. They worked well for us in our asphalt Banshee's but when they switched to making the DD with all Kevlar disc's we had slippage problems and it "muddied" the oil badly and very quick. I got a big order of organics custom made but it was super expensive (was charged list per plate). Bottom line - You won't go wrong with cork clutches. I've not used Drivelines but the one Jeff (FAST) sells is great.

The best porter I ever knew said it should be like a cats tongue.

Except for the reeds I still have it all.

Plug chops are only a part of the tuning regiment but I've done a ton over the years in our gas motors. It's likely more beneficial to me as an asphalt racer running WOT because it's a great indicator of the main circuit. My motors build heat throughout the run and by the 1/4 mile traps are reaching meltdown points. I don't do them near as often but for sure at the start of each season or anytime I make setup changes I'll throw one cheap ES plug in my hottest cylinder and check things.

I wrapped my oof drag pipes a couple of years ago to do some 1/4 mile testing. It's a pita to get the wrap laid down uniform and tight but it can be done. Shoot me a pm if you care to see some pictures.

This help Tyler? See deckheights post http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/107289-flywheel-lightening/?hl=boonman

I've got a brand new pair of Boss Billet bowls for PWK's still sealed in the shrink wrap package. $100.00 shipped in the lower 48 only. *You pay the fees*

Reverting back isn't something I'd be interested in but the parts are available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-ATV-MX-KEIHIN-PWK-CARBURETOR-TOWER-NEW-BDT-MOTORSPORTS-ENGINE-/391146417697?hash=item5b1224ae21:g:WJkAAOSwBLlVV75i&vxp=mtr

sheerider11 is right! The gasket is leaking. It just so happens the air is escaping from that point. Lots of cubs have holes along their intake tracts...It's the bottom of the bolt holes, below the threads.

I agree with tricked. I think you're mistaken on the bearings. I've not used the Driveline but Jeff's clutch is a great kit.