Tedder

Not sure I understand your question M18. There are a lot of motor and fuel variables but assuming a stock ignition with an adjustable stator plate most running gas are advanced +4 or 5* and those on methanol are 8 -10*

Have you looked into these? https://dragymotorsports.com/#home-hero

Yes Sir, Nice to still have a few good ones around.

Make certain that the pilot jets and circuit is open.

Appreciate that very much but another "old timer" already stepped up to help.

Someone must have a bent or scrape frame lying around. I'm looking for the top gussets on the sub frame. Thanks

Can't have it all... You need to decide if you want an all out drag setup or not. My son has a very good running 4 and 10 mil ported Serval and I a 4 and 10mil ported cub so I'm familiar with both. From what your post says I'd lean towards the Serval for sure. Redline's an HQ Sponsor and a good choice. Cam will have some good input for you and I'd follow his lead on pipe selection.

Easy, Get with an HQ sponsor for an intake and if it were me, a set of V-Force 4's On budget and a happy neighbor.

- Won't sell individually - I have 2 *BRAND NEW* still sealed in the wrapping Chariot anodized billet clutch baskets with backing plates, cushions and bolts for Banshee's. Buy the pair for $375.00 shipped in the lower 48 only and I'll include 2 *NEW* Chariot ez drain style water pump plates and 1 *NEW* black Chariot water pump cover. Paypal Friends and Family or buyer pay's the fee.

Since it fires putting gas through the back of the carbs you've narrowed the problem down a bunch. Focus on the fuel delivery.

Joe's buried in work now. One man show. He's one of the premier shops out there but you'll wait. I usually use Mark @ R&D Performance. He does exceptional work but is expensive.

I honestly can't tell you on the 4mil. They're custom cut alcohol domes for 1/4 mile asphalt by Tim @ Titan Racing and have no markings. My 10 mil domes were cut by Dave Noss. One pair is 24 and the other 22cc. I'd recommend calling Dave (Noss Machine). He's a sponsor here and has been cutting domes forever. He'll fix you up on exactly what you need.

Pistons stuck in the domes? My 68 bore cubs with 115 rods use 573 series Blaster pistons as does my son's Serval

OEM cranks are very good quality but if I were in your situation, because of age, I'd put a new Hot Rod Crank in it.

You'll never go wrong with an HQ sponsor and all of Chariot's products are quality items.

Take a good look at things to determine why it blew the oring. We're going to Silver Lake soon from Northeast Ohio. Don't know what kind of riding you do at home but to power through the sand and up those hills it'll generally require a little richer jetting.

A lot of the build can be done without being so technical but here's what you're looking for. **This taken from right here on the HQ Banshee service manual section 3-42 & 3-43 https://www.bansheehq.com/technical-information/

Got a set of Driveline cases for my 611 DM build. Look to be good quality and for sure a far better alternative to welding and puttying up oem's.

Registered user is 100% right. So many variables and a lot of testing that you'll need to do on your specific application. Number one, It will take a LOT more fuel to keep from burning it down. Guzzler, Opened vents, big bowls etc. Don't get greedy when your testing, Baby steps as you go - I use Digitrons and do plug reads to monitor my passes. ***Even so you'll likely eat a piston or two during your learning curve. As for plugs - Most Banshees running gas use BR8 NGK's - On alcohol BR9's which is a colder plug are pretty much the standard. I use bored 39 PWKS and 41 Pro's (both the same bore size) in my 1/4 mile asphalt motors. The mains and dump tubes are drilled to .120 plus they have power jets. Pilots are as small as I can get away with (50 or 52 I believe) If you go to small you'll get lean hangs at best and at worst it'll rev to the moon at startup. As posted earlier, Alcohol generally requires a different dome configuration and additional timing. Now let's throw a wrench in it all - My son (Banshee) and grandson (Apex) run 2 -300 ft dirt drags and the fuel requirements are very different. Smaller mains/dumps and very little or no power jets needed depending on distance and track bite. Oil - I used to run 32:1 Blendzall but switched to 927. You'll have to do your own research to verify your oil choice is methanol compatible. I think mixing at 20:1 is fine. On a side note. I live in the Northeast. I liked Klotz Super Techniplate in gas motors for years but it's hygroscopic and did ugly things to the inside of our alcohol motors even with very good purging practices. Hope this helps

Yes,,, Since things are quiet here these days it doesn't matter that you're one of the original "old members". Your hiatus makes you fresh meat! lol - welcome

All I've ever run are Keihins. I have bored 39's on my drag port 4mil

I like B-12 but it is wicked, Especially if it splashes into the eyes... Ask me how I know lol. Don't use it to clean parts before welding on them either. Imo if you used it as a fuel additive to clean out the carbs it likely won't work. There aren't many pieces to the carbs so with a Clymer and a little mechanical aptitude you'll be fine digging into them yourself.

My son has a heavily ported 421 serval with bored 39 Keihins and it's a gas hog. It's a bad ass runner but only gets 50 miles out of a tank.

What exactly are you looking for? There's some useful information in these links: https://www.bansheehq.com/technical-information/

I keep this in my shop to remind me that lean is mean. This damage was caused from light detonation that was felt right away and throttled out. In addition to what you see of this Hot Rod crank bearing a tiny sliver of the race found its way into the combustion chamber and torn up the piston, dome and nikasil.