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trickedcarbine

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Everything posted by trickedcarbine

  1. Roll Design arms. Factory 43 nerfs. Fox Float Shocks.
  2. Quite a while ago. It’s on the left. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. If you are starting off with another set of cylinders, but don’t wanna spend to much money, call Driveline. They’re new cylinders are a little cheaper then the CP mono jug cylinders, but they are almost on par with power potential. They have all the goods and come out of the box making what ported stock cylinders do and can be taken further.
  4. This is my current junk. Custom no link out back, banshee cradle, yfz geo up front so any YFZ parts can bolt up. It’ll be a full Ti front end from Rath. The only custom 450 parts will be the steering stem as no one makes stems for the YFZ tall enough to come up to the banshee tank height. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. We did one a while back. It was not a full one off set up though. The point was to see how well we could get the stock parts cut apart and just placed differently. We tweaked rake and a few other things. The bike handled like it was on rails, but to be honest it was a ton of work and even after it was done there were a few items that I wanted to refine. We had to go with yfz spindles and had to tweak steering stem angle and location twice after mock up. Once we had new arms made it sold, so I never got to fully sort it out. There is another thread by SNT on here and his was probably the nicest LT stock frame hybrid. He spent a bit more money on shocks and fab. I have been slowly getting after a new frame and ended up just going full Chromoly instead of just doing the front end.
  6. There is definitely a fine line with compression and timing. The purpose is to get the motor to come alive faster and get up to the RPM’s. However to much timing and compression and it fights itself and can’t carry RPM to make power. I’ve ran so many set ups between short tracks and 1/2 mile courses trying to find the sweet spot and I’d say motors cranking 160-170psi tend to be the sweet spot. It’s enough to wake a motor up, but everything is nice and happy up top in the RPM’s. I’ve still got a few old 4mils that I alternate depending on what I wanna ride, but admittedly my old short track 12 port passion cylinders with 190psi are a fucking blast on the tight tracks.
  7. Honda or Urmosi if you’re feeling spendy. I came from dirtbikes and the first banshee I ever owned was a twist throttle so I’m to the point where the thumb throttle just feels super foreign to me unless I’m on a snowmobile.
  8. +4 is pretty standard. If the crank is welded and you’ve got the good fuel, +7.
  9. One big thrust washer or two behind the inner hub? What clutch basket?
  10. What type of Porting and pipes? I just did one very similar to yours with a dune type port CT pipes and it’s at 152 main, CEL needle second from bottom clip, and 55 pilot.
  11. I believe those arms were basic LT arms modded with perches. I may have some old messages from him and I’ll see if I can get a brand and name on who modded them for the additional perches. In the end if you’re picking a length, decide on whether or not it’s a dedicated street cruiser or if you intend on taking it to the track. If you’re doing track days, I believe many classes of mortad racing allow 52 inches wide or 132cm.
  12. Any Ricky Stator, Rick’s, or RM electrical components?
  13. Fireball if you want it for trails or rec riding. Carbon Race Parts can hook you up if you need it light weight for racing.
  14. 155-160 main, 50-55 pilot, needle second from the bottom clip.
  15. This is the way to go. I did a set of carbon bands like the street bikes use but they came apart on the second ride.
  16. Have the stockers rebuilt and bored to 28's before you ever consider knock off PWK's.
  17. .038 is a bit tight imo. You typically wanna see these things between .045-.055 depending on setup. What base gasket do you have and is your head just a milled stocker.
  18. Anything but ModQuad and Pro Design. The Pro Design has way to many parts and O rings.
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