trickedcarbine

I am pursuing upper arms. The lower is the one that will see most of the stress with the shock being mounted to it. Uppers for what I do should be just fine.

There are sled guys out here that have been beating the hell out of them for years. F1 guys have ran them for years. Drag cars have ran them for years. It's all a matter of who's doing it and how. That said, I'd never build my own arms, but I know a handful of fellas I would have no problem paying.

^ Meh, to each their own. I grew up on twist and am not much of a thumb throttle fan.

Better pics of cases?

There are Indy cars running them top and bottom

Bump.

When you are swapping the 27.5's in, make a note what side the bowl with the brass BB is on.

Kompulsive makes a harness with a tether hook up. It's painless. Regular ones aren't to bad. What's the trouble? What brand?

It's just an upper arm. But pretty cool for fellas cutting weight. I wouldn't try a lower arm though. https://www.pct.edu/academics/icet/automated/CarbonFiber.htm

Yes

You want it gritty and textured. All that nonsense about polished ports from the 60's & 70's has been de bunked.

FAST

I was pulling the trigger on black bear

My 07 needs a tune and I'm gonna pull the trigger.

Right on. Use a blow gun on the compressor to blow out the crank case area and bearings. Be careful not to aim it at the seals.

What happened to your super serval Rajun? Thought that thing only went down the street a few times?

Probably. It's possible it might just be a retouch. Worst case would be to add Tig weld or epoxy to some stuff that doesn't line up.

Worth a shot. May be able to see it in the bottom. I'll bet it's been sheared off in one of the transfers.

Gotta look on the drag racer sites.

Take it apart. Get a baby of ziploc bags and boxes and take lots of photos on your bike. They are really not bad to do and don't need much for tools. Its just a couple hours. Your buddy is a doofus, but you should be able to do a squish test through a spark plug hole. When you cut it off you need to file the end in to a nice smooth end. Bend it in to an L and fit it against the edge of the dome where the squish band profile meets the bore. It has to be there before you roll it over.

Those lights clash with that bumper. I'll take it off your hands...

That^. If I'm in a pinch, simple green ain't bad. Just takes more effort. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back together?!

Not shabby

Yes. Cheetah..... Just Cheetah, is pretty much a cub cyl with power valves and 250r intakes. Cheetah Cheetah cub Serval cub Wampus cub Wampus serval (wampus cyls are meant to look stock) Super (means 72mm bore in any of the above combos) DM (74mm-80mm ish) DMX (80+ mm) Then you get the real monsters Jmadd mentioned which are all spread bore and even larger bores then the DMX. Spread bore means the cylinders are located further apart then stock. That allows them to make the transfers larger to feed the larger motors.