trickedcarbine

RPM or RAD

Pick up gap? Have you tested the flywheel to see if it's not broken inside? Made sure it's still got a strong magnetism?

Pick up gap?

That would be a major issue. Not the first time someone went over everything 10 times and still can't figure it out, and it turned out to be slides.

Pistons look ok? No major scarring in the bore?

After reading that post, 19cc domes should be plenty more compression IMO even at that height. Typically a 421 cub is looking at race gas around 21cc's. Those domes should be burning that fuel plenty fine up there. I know the exhaust is big, but it's still 196* and there is elevation, but it seems just a touch on the fucky side. Looking at the graph, it should have plenty enough grunt to move out of the hole. I'm curious, has anyone pulled the head off to get a good ol' fashioned lookey at what's going on inside?

A touch one way or another on the case mark adjustment isn't bad. It's just a gauge so you can get a decent amount of clutch throw. If you are drag racing you can do some interesting things with that adjustment.

Just make sure there is play in the lever. If you use tension on the cable to pull the actuator arm forward, that acts just like you squeezing the lever so the clutch will never be fully engaged. It will slip the clutch.

Get a real wet kit and some conservative domes, then let it eat! Hope your crank is welded...

What did the spark plug boots ohm out to? Also clip like 1/4" off the end of the plug wire. Tiny dab or dialectric grease in the plug boot on wire and plug side, then thread wire in to the boot.

Hmmm, mine line up.

Works....

Trash can

2 cyl massive twins like Scimitars, Caracals, sniper big block, etc., are flirting with 200hp. But certainly not 300. (There are a handful of multi cylinder set ups that have hit 300 though)Maybe toss some N2O at it or boost like the monster Stimbert/Tyson built, but at that point it's definitely stock based parts. We're talking Billit cases, Billit cranks, Billit tranny parts and lots of custom machined parts.

Check plug boots, stator pick up, set pick up gap, etc. I know you're higher up in Washington but my brothers shee out there had pretty similar mods and it was totally happy on 27.5 pilot. Just seems odd.

Time to give the electrical a once over. Something is up is 27.5 is not burning ok. You have an ohm meter?

Buy a new CPU and auto cal then meet when they come through west Michigan in a few months.

Small adjuster. Loosen everything on the perch. Now set the adjuster so the plate just starts to disengage when you pull the actuator past the arrow on the top case mark. It should line up when you just take the slack out by hand. Then hook up the cable and adjust it so the clutch lever has just a touch of play in and out. Like 1/8-1/4"

He does a few light add ons for minimal dollars. Mods the OEM shift shaft before selling them. Coozies. Stickers. Bearing and weld services are dirt cheap if buying a NEW crank and bearings. Stuff like that. His prices are fair and shipping is legit.

Freightqoute.com

You can upload to any photo host like photo bucket and copy the image code and paste it here in your replies here. Or, down load tapatalk forum app on your phone/tablet and directly post photos from your device.

This WILL NOT end well.

Ya, I didn't notice they were K&T PJ carbs till I saw the other jetting thread. That explains the small main.

Drop the front tooth back to a 14 tooth. Get some proper jets in those carbs. No way Shearer set those carbs up like that. You'll be around a 32.5 pilot max. What fuel?