trickedcarbine

No no no. The SLPs are a real early on pipe that signs off pretty abruptly up top.

Why all the SLP reccomendations from you fellas? He says he’s doing more open riding, it would take hella gearing to get them to not sign off so hart up top and then you’d be killing the bottom end.

The SLP’s will sign off to early for you then. Look at the DMC’s and PC’s. However if you really wanna get 4, 5, & 6, look for a set of Rockets or CPI’s. They’ll still have a bit of grunt early on and really move on the top end. The open roads and sand pits will really be fun. And if you want more bottom end feel with them, just do a timing plate and domes.

I’ve tuned a few cubs pretty happily anywhere between 7 and 10 degrees timing. I know there are guys running up to about 14 degrees, but that’s fellas who like to push the limits.

Just fix it. They’re way easier to fix then the 4 stroke stuff.

8.5-9:1

T5’s are friggin’ lazy all around IMO. The only people who disagree are the fan boys who’ve never ran anything different. What is it that you want the pipe to do? DMC’s will certainly be more like a PC.

Lean

Sounded lean, and like the clutch is toast and just slipping.

Exactly why I asked. That’s where your issue is. To much timing. Put the plate at 0 and let the Dyna do it’s thing. Or make sure the Dyna is programmed to accommodate the plate.

There is no one answer for that question. Some guys go several seasons on one set of pistons and only need a light hone before putting fresh ones in and can do that a few times before needing a bore. Other guys who aren’t as meticulous can end up needing to bore halfway through a season because they’ve over heated it, feed it trash fuel, don’t clean filters, or bored & honed wrong before a rebuild.

Just timing on the ignition? No aftermarket plate under the Stator?

Definitely ditch the Koso’s.

What would the rest of the set up be? Any way you can post a photo of the bottom of the cylinders in the transfer area? That’ll typically tell the tale of how much air you can use.

That was the smarter route if you can fab.

These are the drill kits. Really no worse then changing actual jets. Just pull yours, twist the bit for 20 seconds, spray it with brake clean or compressed air and done. If you know what jets you should have you can be even faster since you don’t need to work up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not to bad really. Just takes experience to know how far to go. There are charts out there that show drill sizes to equivelant mikuni or keihin jet sizes. Pretty sure the Koso’s should jet out like mikuni.

Find a kit to drill jets. Start with figuring out thebit that fits. Then work yourbway up one size at a time till it’s flowing what you need.

Yessir. It’s on the shelf. Hoping to run it on the ice in a bit.

That thing was sick. You’re still sitting on it after you found out it was tweaked?

Jogaca Rocket Ron (Ronald D Elmore) Derisi Maul Tech (Can’t remember who took over the company)

They look like the ASI ones off EBay. Someone upgraded them with the grease zerks, so that’s a solid upgrade if they don’t hit when the arms move up. If you don’t jump and all that, run them. They can always be swapped later.

If you’re buying a set of new carbs and cost isn’t an issue, I’d say go 28pwk’s. They won’t gain a bunch of power, but they will certainlybfeel more crisp and make just a touch more, but will certainly make more once you start making other upgrades. If cost is a factor, find a really clean matched set of stock carbs and do the TORS delete on them and install some idle screws.

Yeah. That’s a pretty sweet build. I’m ok being late to the party. Yours was a narrowed stock frame hybrid, right?

It would be if I could ever finish it.