trickedcarbine

28’s would only be a marginal gain in power, but you will gain a bit of torque and have a much more responsive ride. You could step in to some 33’s, but they would be overkill for what you’ve got and you’d lose bottom end. What 30’s were you looking at? If they’re OKO’s jdont bother.

Sounds like a welded ball and rod. Sometimes they come out easily, some times they don’t. Definitely rebuilt it with a pancake bearing.

Not a bad set up if the power is there to turn it. For his, he’s not pushing much power and riding open roads, so that’s quite a bit of gearing to try to pull.

If you’re having trouble tuning stock carbs, you’ll melt a motor with lectrons. I could help ya, but I’ve gotta know the piston info to be sure. And your porting info was vague. So if you don’t know your own bike, how can folks give you proper info? The Vito’s power pistons simulate porting, so they require more fuel. If you’re unsure and want a guess in the wind, throw a 30 pilot and 310-320 main in it and work down.

I’m heading kicker rattle and possible exhaust rattle. Check the exhaust mounts, springs, and clamps. Another typical rattle is the left side pipe touching the head of the clamps aren’t spaced on certain pipes.

Yes. That’s a pretty big deal. Running it like that could melt a piston. And will definitely cause it to rev and lean hang. One more thing to check before firing it is all of the throttle cable ends. It’s easy to bump a cable during assembly and get the outer sheath hung up on one of the carb adjusters or the ends where the 2/1 or throttle housing is.

This^ I’ve never met a complainer that had a fucking clue.

Been sorting out my buddy’s Blizzard with 600 SDI. What a pain in the nuts to work in there.

So The Boris = Booxzzy?

Is he still in business?

30 pilot, 280-290 main, needle second clip from bottom.

Did you check compression after this happened?

If it’s revving onnits own and trying to runaway, that’s gonna be a prime indicator for an air leak. I’d check compression before going further. If it’s still got good equal compression, do a leak down to find the air leak.

^ pretty much.

15-39?

One question. Are they the Vitos power pistons with the reliefs on the edges of the crown?

https://motsmachining.com/photos/ ? If you wanna keep it all in Canada, maybe have Arsene handle it.

Who is Mott’s Machining? Are they building these motors or similar banshee stuff? After checking out your spread sheet, your domes are not pump gas at 21cc. Those numbers are fine on stock cylinder and stroke motors, but once you compress the added volume of a 72 bore and 10mm more stroke, it is much higher compression then pump gas will handle. Mattoon cases are over kill unless you do a DM. Straight cut gears refer to the primary gears definitely worth doing over 100HP. However a billit trans is going to be from Robinson and those are drag racing over rides, not a pro mod like you’ll want. You can however buy a billit 2nd Gear. Doubtful you’d even need a billit second though. Of the guys I know with the 521 Servals, they are running stock based pro mods. The pro mod will come with all the other parts like the detent roller, modded star, etc. Clutch, ditch the 8 plate. No need for it now that everybody is running the lock up clutches. The old 8 and 10 plate set ups were done to hold power before the lock ups were around. There obviously are some mega motors in the drag world that may use them, but for yours, run the lock up on a traditional style clutch. The spring loaded Hinson on straight cut gears is definitely tits. A sling shot or finger style lock up is a toss up. Both have their benefits, but you’ll see more tuning info for the finger style lock ups. Definitely go new OEM ignition components on a timing plate over any of the other stuff out there. The gains are minimal and the cost is high especially if you’re not an advanced engine builder/tuner. Jet Kit? Dude, this isn’t some motor a box kit from Dyno Jet will work on. Their kit is for stock carbs anyway. If you’re tuning lectrons or PWK’s you’ve got totally different jets. Not to mention learning curve For exhaust, the FMF and SLP’s are automatically not going to work. You’ll need a big bore pipe. Shearer and Sniper do offer those, but I’d go LED. They have been building a lot of pipes for the big Servals and other comparible power motors for Cam at Redline and they can get you a total package with the quiet silencers you want. Check out Factory 43 for nerfs. Front brakes can be swapped to yfz450 stuff. Do the master cylinder as well. The rear can be swapped to calipers from a multitude of options. Wicked, Brembo/Ducati style caliper from Race Tech, Rick Farmer’s Caliper, etc. The stock master is decent enough or you can swap it to an R1 Caliper. Lastly, of all the electronic stuff you want on it, it’s all weight. Lots and lots of weight. Maybe a Digitron data monitor, and the road legal stuff. But all the rest of it... meh.

Do your self a favor, move on from Kevin at HerrJuggs No need for the Mattoon cases on a 10 motor which is what a 521 will be. If you are serious about a 521 Serval, get with Cam at Redline. He has been turning out more 521 Servals then anyone. I’ve rode one of his 521’s and plenty smaller Servals. He’s got them figured out. As far as the LSR chassis goes. You’ll be hard pressed to get them to do another run of them if you’re talking about the Outlaw. If you are lucky it’s possible you may find one used online and have everything there to tear down and re powder coat. I’m doing getting a custom frame built with YFZ 450 geometry up front and it should be done in a week or so. I’d entertain offers as I’m kind of wanting to move on to other projects. Or, I may have a small run of them re produced.

Acceptable PSI in a stock head rebuild with a couple bores like yours, 130ish. Do you have a stock head or cool head on it? Dennis is spot on with break in. Just be get it warm and check it all over a couple times. Take it for an easy cruise and listen to it. If it’s all good, beat the snot out of it.

Meh, expensive learning curve.

Ideas? See above. Way way way to much timing. Slap it back together and send it again. We’ll be here when you’re ready to keep it in one piece.

Absolutely. There is even a jetting comparison thread here, but there are plenty of us who have built multiple different shit piles of every variation, so there is definitely knowledge that can be shared. Not be more accurate, what is the full set up on the bike? Head work, timing, fuel, air box or pod filters, etc.

Maybe for the inexperienced. But once you take the time to figure it out and learn a thing or two, you’ll see it’s way easier.

This was the most intelligent question out of anyone.