trickedcarbine

I'll see what I can find.

Exactly

The FMF set up was a T Rex with actual Rotax powervalves. The other option out around that time was from LA sleeve and it was a Mono and had proprietary valves as well.

You keep saying Rotax powervalve. The Cheetah did not use a Rotax Powervalve. They used proprietary Trinity designed valves. I'm just trying to be clear, you had yours set up with actual Rotax powervalves, or just the powervalves that come with the cheetah?

There is definitely weight to be saved on the battery these days. FTZ did a lot with those when they came out. They are mostly doing small sprint car type stuff these days, but it might be worth giving them a call.

How did Kan fit the Rotax valves? I have been looking for options other then the regular Trinity PV's and it looks like a bit of work to get Rotax valves on the cheetahs.

^ good

Unhook the cable from the perch. Move the clutch arm on the engine case till it stops. The tip should align with the arrow on top of the case when you push it to its stopping point. If that's not happening, you will need to pull the clutch cover and use the adjuster in the middle of the clutch pressure plate to make it line up. Once that's good, you can set the cable tension how you want it. If it all lines up but you steel need excessive adjustment to make it not stall, it's probably time for a new clutch cable.

Sudco or pjmotorsports

Should. Can't hurt to call and ask.

That's stock as fuck. You definitely need at least a 27.5 pilot. Any local shops you can buy jets? I'd say you should grab 27.5 pilots, 280 & 290 main jets.

Make sure to use a properly sized screw driver so it doesn't Gaul the top up. If it doesn't wanna come right away, use a hammer to give the end of the screw driver a little whack.

yup

Ok, posting photos here requires a photo host. Tapatalk is the easiest way. Are you on a apart phone or tablet? If so down load the tapatalk app.

Do you mean Kurt? I think there was a fella named Kurt that helped a bit on Jim Vidmar's Pikes Peak Duncan build.

Gotcha, we know where you're coming from. Your first step to making tuning easier is to remember this: Idle-1/4 throttle (pilot & air screw) 1/4-3/4 throttle (needle) 3/4-full throttle (main) Main concern is making sure that with colder temps coming in, that you have enough fuel going through the carb or you WILL melt a hole in the piston/s. Your 270's with FMF exhaust and the pro flow intake will more then likely need to be just a touch richer if you want it to be reliable. 270's would typically be ok with the stock airbox with a lid and stock filter but your intake feeds more air. Couple that with colder denser air temps, and that thing will wanna eat just a bit more. Now, your off idle throttle. That is where the pilot and air screw actually make a difference. You are trying to just whack the throttle and get it to come alive and you are getting some hesitation? Typically two strokes will have just a hint of hesitation at that point. It's the nature of the beast. But, there are things you can do to make it seem non existent or so minimal it's not noticed. Simply put, proper tuning. Take the bowl off the carb, and right in front of the brass hex shaped main jet, there will be a recess and inside is a flat head brass jet. Remove that and tell us what number is on it.

(Caps ain't shouting, just trying to respond to each part of the post seperately) Check out the jetting FAQ/How To

Also, the stock Mikuni's indicate a pilot change is needed if they need much more then 3/4 to a full turn out on the air screw. And you mention 270 mains and 34* temps. If you even have a stock airbox with just a good filter, you may need more fuel on the main in temps that cold. The difference is even more drastic with the air box lid off or even a set of pod filters.

No You said stock jetting as far as you knew, then posted that it had a 270 main. Not stock jetting. What pilot jets?(not screw setting)And stock intake and filter?

There is a whole list of shops on the homepage. Some are vendors, some are engine builders, some are both. You'll find that there are things that you'll need over an extensive build l, and when that time comes just call around and see who you jive with.

Right but he said he "had to completely change it" after cleaning them.

Just FMF pipes? Stock airbox and filter? What pilot jet? And where are the air screws set at?

Loren and Leonard have a history with the Banshee platform, seems as though the shop is mostly 4 stroke these days. They are good fellas and I hope they as helpful to you as they have been to me over the years. However, there are plenty of options out there and it could really pay off to check out some of the guys still doing banshee stuff full time. An LSR frame would be tits. What's your budget?

I'm The air screw is not making much difference up top. It's more or less helping off idle and starting. You need to be changing the actual jets to make a difference.

Well, it is possible that the excess timing made it run weird. You mentioned you compensated with richer jetting? If it's clearly responding to less timing, it may be wise to start backing down fuel to see if it cleans up and runs better.