trickedcarbine

-2For the super serval and cheetah.

Remember there is more to the world out side the box you live in. Daryl Rath has been building chassis parts for over two decades. Several bikes out there with his TI parts, but it was always limited and costs big bucks.

FTZ may be worth calling. They did a ton of them years ago.

I believe it was 1.125 ID. I swapped the flange and just bent the tube to go out back and ran them a few weekends with no silencers. I honestly couldn't give a direct RPM as it never went on the dyno, but with every thing else the same I gained a consistant 3MPH on the straight a way of our 1/2 mile oval.

Depends on what class, but yes.

Interesting.

Well that frame is gonna be 450 geometry, so it wouldn't matter either way. However on my current bike I was gonna bolt up those light weight Fireball Arms that never sold, but perhaps this may be an option. Let me mull it over a bit. I'd assume he'll be around $1500?

Lay that cover on a piece of granite or heavy glass with 600 grit. Run it in figure 8 pattern and then finish it with 800 grit. It'll be fine.

Ouch, Coolant is the anti lube in a cylinder, but it wouldn't cause a hole in the top of a piston. It is possible that it ate enough coolant from the system that the radiator didn't have enough fluid to properly cool the motor.

Then I wouldn't worry about the above issue.

Fuck! I have already committed to having Rath build my TI arms. The six5 stuff is killer!

You can still get all the cheetah stuff new. Harry McDermott sold Trinity to Dasa I believe, but he is now working under his own name at McDermott Motorsports. He kept the rights to a few Trinity products after the sale though. The cheetah is the main product he held on to.

For me, it is perfect on the ice. I've tested with plenty of sleds in oval and it works. The 535 I have coming is going in my current bike and it'll see trails to. Our trails go from twisty stuff in trees to open power lines and fire roads. So it'll be nice to lug the bike in tight stuff and then be able to get it wide open with out it feeling like it's hitting a wall on the top end. There is no question that a properly designed PV set up can benefit any motor that sees a variation of RPM. It's getting it to work in a particular application that makes it worth it or not.

Lotta boats in the smaller classes with snowmo engines doing this.

Trinity valves work very similar to the Rotax Rave valves. However, they use a keihin jet to bleed off pressure from the bellow. Smaller jet bleeds less, so you get a slower operation of the valve. Larger jet bleeds off pressure and makes the valve react vaster. It's not a bad set up. I fiddled with a 421 cheetah and it was actually pretty easy to get the valves dialed in for a buddy. I've got a 535 on the way now, so I'll see how it goes a second time around.

Only if someone porting really has no clue how to do it. That is currently the least of your worries.

I will admit, their welders aren't as good as they once were. As far as rust, quit slouching and get 'em on the bike and give the them some two stroke protection.

^ the most direct way to say it.

Full specs on new motor? What jets in the carbs? Did it pass a leak down after assembly? Did you do a leak down before pulling it apart? It's gonna be a lack of fuel issue or an air leak.

There has always been PV options. But here is why you don't see many. Most guys dumping the big bucks in to these ol machines are drag/dune racers. No PV needed. Those that really benefit from them are trail guys. Majority of the trail guys aren't building high dollar stuff. It's basically a dollar to fun ratio. If the banshee was touted and designed as a Moto X machine, I'd bet it would be a totally different story. But it was a machine aimed at being king of the dunes. No need for PV's on a machine meant to sing all day at over 9K rpm.

Meh, that's a little lofty. By today's standard, they are dated. But when they came out and options were still limited they held their own. The set I sold to whitbread I was able to get to Rev when I put bigger stingers on them.

Tons of 250R stuff with PV's sorted out. Certainly makes for a more controllable ride. Just about useless for drag racing unless the machine is a heavy bitch. Plenty of drag snowmobiles still run PV's surprisingly.

Totally busting balls.

You'll want them to be 14 1/2" to 14 3/4". And make sure they are valved a little heavier to compensate for the banshee's weight. If you can't answer those questions, I'd look for used stuff actually set up for a banshee.

Because some of us ride more then 500' a year.