trickedcarbine

If you got coin, hit up Matt Whitbread. He's got the EFI thing down.

No.

Less weight

Exactley. If it's not shifting, something is Fucky.

Not needed. And what springs?

Well, I'd be hesitant to run something I wasn't sure exactley how much timing it was adding. An OEM unit will typically be more reliable and you can use a simple timing plate to add timing of you want.

Not sure if the CDI is an old Dyna or not but could be. Definitely look for a 98^ CDI if you want to switch. The comment you made about the hollow sound in the higher gears is usually indicative of lean condition. Can you post pics of the stator for us to tell you what you got there as well?

How many balls in the slingshot. You'd be surprised how much power you can hold with less then what is reccomended by directions.

Well, this got interesting.

Depends on the company. But it's probably the same clutch and steel pack with stiffer springs in the drag one.

Which pipe am I spending money on? Or who do I have to let my girlfriend blow to get someone to tell me?

Graph or gtfo! LOL

It's way more then $300 ☹

Well fix it and post the graphs before the Russians hack Cam's computer and they are gone forever.

Just runs with the LED's? Or did Cam find a set of the big bore snipers?

I want the front wheels n' tires if they are not dry rotted. The bandit AT's are the hot ticket on ice.

But as a first time buyer, I wanted a discount. And I needed it right away. And if he's to busy building stuff for guys who represent his company I will take my business else where. How dare he waste my time. Lol.

That^ Had a local sled guy go over a 4mil serval last year. He didn't do much with durations. Just crisped up shapes and angles. If you look through the dynos for them here and see the Redline stuff, I believe he claims gains with just minor tweaking of shapes and angles with out drastic duration changes as well.

Umm, if in fact what you are describing is damage on an opposite side of a damaged piston, you need to check the crank. Parts from the right side can't physically feed to the opposite side if everything is in the condition it needs to be. That means debris had to go through two bearings.... Or something on that other side let go that you didn't notice.

I'm an amateur, but I've listened to a lot of folks who were willing to share the info. You have the gist of what's needed listed above, but where it gets technical is when you start to really think about what it takes to create a better combustion. Not just domes, but physically aiming the ports in a way so that as they flow, they go to an intended area with out disturbing one another. Using ports to help push/pull the mixture when it's needed. The real results will obviously vary from cylinder design to another, and knowing how and what to do is gonna come with experience.

If you plan on playing with the clutch, send it out the left side.

DM will make more power and is better suited for drag.

Arsene Racing?

The fact that guys are booked as far out as a year is actually a good thing. It's an ailing industry that seems to be getting some sort of revival. Guys are seemingly spending more lately. If you have a guy telling you 6 months that typically means they have a solid reputation if people are willing to wait. As far as putting money in to a used motor, if you actually go through everything you can have a better then new motor, but it takes a total package. Not just tossing a used ported top end and domes on a clapped out old bottom end.

You do realize we're a bunch of ball busters here, right? Get a sense of humor. A dark sense of humor. Make some popcorn and enjoy the show.