trickedcarbine

A 10 mil or 521.... Hmm.

Im it surprised it took ya that long.

Thank you

When someone says any "X" mil, they are referring to the additional stroke. If it's a 4 mil that means 4 mm more stroke over stock. And so on for 5, 7, 10, etc. Stock Rod length is 110mm. Typically when you hear long rod thrown out as a term, they will mean 115mm rod. The theory is the longer rod puts less stress on the piston and have a longer dwell time. There will be different pistons to run a longer rod. 421 will typically be 4mil crank, 68mm bore.

Looks like there powder coat inside the swing arm housing. Doubt it since its JJ&A, but Is there coating on the carrier? Have you tried to pry the swing arm open just a touch?

Call Jeff at fast and ask for a complete bottom end OEM kit. Not sure if that's what it's called on their web site. But it's a kit with every OEM clip, retainer, washer, eccentric stud, etc... If the low end is being split, it may as well go back together with brand new stuff. I'd imagine Cam at redline has a similar package of can fill the same order. Kick starter bushing. Transmission bearings. Shift shaft. Shift shaft bushing. Maybe have Cam do the trans.

Good things come to those who wait.

No, I'm saying they SHOULD HAVE included welding in to the production on any banshee crank.

The cranks should of been welded from the factory... So, I'd get that taken care of.

The excessive shaft movement will go away when the clutch is assembled properly.

It enables the casting foundry to cast the water jacket around the exhaust.

Paging zilla

Do not use a screw driver to pry them out. Put a screw in to the plug leaving enough of the screw to grab with pliers.

Clymer FTW

Bummer.

Those suspension seats up on the shelf. Are they for sale and do you have another bucket?

He just never had enough interest to make it worth making kits. Everyone wanted parts runs runs of 25, 50, 100 etc.

VRX

There is an alignment dowel.

Lots more guys fiddling with clutches. That and guys hunting for every last ounce of weight to shed off the bike or even them selves. Bout the most major changes. The technology is still all pretty close but parts are getting a bit better.

It was the Duncan National kit. Now, there's no way that thing would cost 30k now. But back then when these things were being built as race machines for pros before they were available to Joe Schmo, it's possible. All the parts plus shop labor to build and set up the machine, possible.

That's awesome.

Fair enough.

I am not losing on traction at all with no link. Ask your self this. Why would most of the fastest suspended drag biked be running a no link set up?

^ that. Try putting that angle gauge between the control arms in the same direction.