trickedcarbine

hmmm...I love that there has been so much r&d into this situation. Any way, I have used the maxima, and the plastic renew. Maxima never lasts but looks cool if u just want it pretty in the garage, the plastic re-new is ok, but it has to be done in ultra fine coats And ure really spending all ur money on is industrial floor sealer. So now thats what I use and it lasts for a long time, alot of guys say im nuts, but when they see my plastic they say it's genius. Here's the process: Wet sand with SOAPY water to 2000 grit. (the soap is just a lil' lube) Rinse and dry rub thouroughly with 0000 ultra fine steel wool after dry and rinse again clean with any degreaser(409,fantastic,etc.) acquire industrial type floor sealant and both 4" and 2" sponge style paint brushes Obviously use the 2" for tight areas and the 4" for large open areas Apply 3-5 ULTRA THIN coats allowing about 15-20 minutes for each to set and dry. I only use the steel wool again if there are any bubbles, runs, or dust and grit landing Buff the plastic with a good cloth and compound of ure choice, power tools are only a go if you absolutely know how not to burn through, Otherwise you'll be doing the whole thing over again. Mud falls right off and it is easily maintained with regular hose downs (I use an electric power washer). any tough spots are taken care of with MR. Clean Magic Eraser Happy trails and good luck, it takes hard work to look good while riding hard.

usually when I go out there to their shop to get stuff, it's kinda hard to get a peek at whats goin on in the back but I did see a set of those big block cylinders that were supposedly reworked for a 4 mil and they looked very nice. I'm not one of those people that can look at a cylinder and tell you if the transfers or intake ports are to high or to low by just takin a glance but I do know that these were very clean, and the symetry was mint. Upon turning one upside down the transfers had a very even cut on both sides and I definitely could tell these things were for the dunes. Also there was some additional exhaust ports , but I think these come cast on those cyls, but I feel they should of at least cleaned those up a but to smooth the casting, but that might not have been worth the effort.

F.A.S.T. manifold is sweet. just rebuilt my bike and could actually notice a difference with the bottom end plus it hits hard up top!

was that you building that turbo shee on hmt with the you tube vids, what ever happened to that thing

that rm stuff is pretty good. havn't actually heard any real complaints but their stuff hasn't been around very long so not many people know about it and their quality is definitely called in to question. Time will tell, personally I run their stator, coil, and plate. had to use my oem boots on the coil but am pretty happy. any one I know that runs their stuff feels the same, good stuff for great price. WORD OF THE WISE: STAY AWAY FROM "RICKEY STATOR"

when will this godess fire......pix plz

I buy from ya all the time and wouldn't mind helpin ya out. I live near waterford so I'm sort of local and if ya had all the parts to rebuild I wouldn't mind workin with ya. Shoot $5.00 a piece and we could make it happen. By the way the peps shock I got a few months ago is titties.

Alright I posted twice about my shee shuttin down and not wanting to idle. Ran like bad ignition or burning coolant. So as I was going to rebuild the carbs for like the 20th time I go to remove my left pipe and as I'm loosening it I hear a click...... I push the pipe back and wiggle it again and hear more profound clicks. turns out that my choke would press against the upper taper of the pipe right at the clamp, and as I would ride the piece would vibrate ever so slightly up and over the taper of the pipe opening the choke about half way. Man what an idiot I am. I removed material from the choke knob upon building the quad so I thought it would just melt a lil bit if it wasnt enough. Man its tight when running F.A.S.T. billet manifold, FMF fatties, and 34mm PJ's. So I'm going to remove the choke screw assembly, remove the plastic knob, and solder on a tube over the current shaft and re attatch the knob to the extension. Plus there was a problem with the new ngk plugs (BR9ES) they now have this cap that can be easily switched between new and old style plug top so they were coming loose after addressing that and the choke the shee killed a built raptor and I've been pitching a tent ever since!

k.... so I noticed the left side makin a lil more smoke first, so if it was goin lean it would of idled a lil bit higher right?????

OK, this thing won't run for shit at idle and, well I checked the head and its torqued so I don't think its leaking, the jetting is the same as when it ran spot on. Before I go spend some money on building a leakdown tester, what are the symptoms of a bad lower end seal so I know if i'm lookin in the right direction. the seals are brand new, but hey, I'm just another stupin f****ng amatuer.

hey booker, I felt a 60 was to big, but after running it just down low my plugs were a bit on the grey side and it popped alot on a 55 pilot. It ran great for about a week on the 60 before this happened

yeah, I retorqued the head. I may try a complete re-install to be sure its the o-rings(wich are new). the fuel is Sunoco 110 racing fuel with 40:1 Bel Ray h1r synthetic. new plugs when switching from break in 32:1 over to 40:1 mixture Just don't get how it barely made any smoke and ran great on current jetting then poof want's to die. had about 2 gallons of the new mix through her before this started.

ok. Just finished my banshee build. Jetted my 34 pj's with 60 pilot,155 main and needle in stock kehin position. the choke/idle adjust is out at 7 1/2 turns and it idled real pretty and the plugs were so perfect. like they were used to wipe a chocolate bar's ass! So I ran this thing up and down our dirt roads and through the s-turns and it ran strong and idled great. I go out to the trails for the first time and never really lay in to it hard and kept touching the head to see if she was gettin' hot. No problems at all, then I roll up to the monster hill climb and pull through the gears and get to the top and pull the clutch and it instantly wants to die. I chop the throttle to keep it goin' thinking that maybe my new motor is capable of suckin the bowls dry on a climb. I wait a few secs and It still wont idle. runs under throttle but not great sounds like fouled plugs do so I go check them and theyre still choco brown. I check the compression and the right was 182 and the left was 178. I crank her up again and notice that the left is smoking way more then the right and so I decide to limp it home but by the time I get to my road this thing needs so much throttle at idle to stay running and there is a cloud the size of a house behind me , but now it's coming out of both cylinders. Not sure where to start just wanna know a few ideas as to what could be a problem so that I can start trouble shooting with out wasting to much time looking for something I'm not sure of. Yes I broke it in.(5 gals @ 32:1) crank seals? rings? water pump issues(leaking)? O-rings in head? any suggestions would be sweet!

hershey syrup sounds pretty bad now that I think of it, sorry for the bad annolagy, just meant it looked like chocolate brown. jetting is nice though. I'll check the timing pick up and pray that it works because the oil isn't milky so I don't think its burnin' coolant. And yes to the break in question as well as the retorque on the head and since it's a cool head I had my local shop tell me to tighten it more then the stock head specs in my clymer thanks for the support HQ especially the local michigan boys

ok. Just finished my banshee build. Jetted my 34 pj's with 60 pilot,155 main and needle in stock kehin position. the choke/idle adjust is out at 7 1/2 turns and it idled real pretty and the plugs were so perfect. Looked like they were dipped in hershey's syrup. So I ran this thing up and down our dirt roads and through the s-turns and it ran strong and idled great. I go out to the trails for the first time and never really lay in to it hard and kept touching the head to see if she was gettin' hot. No problems at all, then I roll up to the monster hill climb and pull through the gears and get to the top and pull the clutch and it instantly wants to die. I chop the throttle to keep it goin' thinking that maybe my new motor is capable of suckin the bowls dry on a climb. I wait a few secs and It still wont idle. runs under throttle but not great sounds like fouled plugs do so I go check them and theyre still choco brown. I check the compression and the right was 182 and the left was 178. I crank her up again and notice that the left is smoking way more then the right and so I decide to limp it home but by the time I get to my road this thing needs so much throttle at idle to stay running and there is a cloud the size of a house behind me , but now it's coming out of both cylinders. Not sure where to start just wanna know a few ideas as to what could be a problem so that I can start trouble shooting with out wasting to much time looking for something I'm not sure of. crank seals? rings? water pump issues(leaking)? O-rings in head? any suggestions would be sweet!

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated. larry I hear ya man and thanx!

Hey fouledout, how were those viper sleeves, Mike mentioned them in case I was going to have to re sleeve before he ported my current set up, hear the exhaust is huge!!!!

lakes is pretty sweet at porting as well. I had those dicks at magics lose my cylinders and penny is super bi-polar so I never know how I'll get treated. FYI the cylinder incident was while chuck was there and he's gone now so I don't know how service is now, but I hear alot of their machine work is begining to trickle down the street over to mike at lakes. Plus after magics got my stuff back it was all jacked and hacked. Mikes wife assured me that he would help get it right and I'll never go any where else to get machining. Porting maybe..... but mike's stuff is way titties also screw tech care, all they want is your money and will practically make you pay for follow up tuning q&a

the armadillo arms are pretty sweet, enough camber adjustment and the ball joints held up to my abuse in very rugged terrain in St. Helen Michigan @ 220 pounds. They handle about as good as any plus 2 arm but I do wish they were an inch forward. The finish has held up for a few seasons and still looks titties. For the money they are some great arms and unless your a real racer or extremist put the 1,200 back in your pocket and get a set of "dildos" for a few hundo. I'd love to go to a +3 +1 due to my interest in flat track and Ice racing, but I may try the spacers so I can still fit in these michigan 50 inch trails with out changing my front end. IMO

For those who don't wanna read just click the link in my sig to see it Hey hq, My name is brett.....and.... tear......I'm a banshaholic! There I said it! you happy! Any way here is my banshee that I've had since I was 14 years old. Yes there is a ton of money in her no mommy and daddy didn't pay for it, but like I said this thing has been in my life for 8 years. It was bought in so so condition leaking from every orfice like one of those sky scraper jumpers, and I had to learn how to work on every thing my self. It blew up finally and sat for a couple of seasons while I built a truck and then I saved the money to have it machined and sleeved, all to have a dick sucking mechanic kill a season cuz he lost my cylinders. finally, I got it back together and got in trouble after riding for only a few months and wound up doing 3 and a half years for kicking in the door of some dudes who jumped a buddy. So in october of 2008 I got home and rode for a month and the sleeve in the right cyl took a dive and shut the motor down. Now its time for a rebuild and the one thing keeping me focused is this banshee because I've got nothing else but sobriety (sucks btw) and a dead town with no pussy. So for the last few months I worked a second job soley for the purpose of freshening up this f'ing lady with a couple hundred or so hours of polishing and painting every old go fast goodie I already acquired. polished till my hands would be numb for 2 or 3 days at a time. So here it is. just about done and ready to be sorted out. The pix are in the link in my sig.

Hey hq, just wanna know if any one in mich is goin to silver lake for the 4th.just got the shee put back together a few days ago and am ready to ride but no body wants to come with, so I'm on my own and I WILL RIDE on the 4th before I stop at my buddys cabin in atlanta. I would kill to ride big, never done the dunes and I need some one to show me the ropes. plus it would be cool to meet some hq freaks! the banshee..... http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfmf...albumId=1228853

If you ever feel like experimenting, give these new sleeves a try, also check out their home page to see all they offer. Mike at lakes isn't a mega name like jeff or kevin, but he takes care of me no matter what the work load is. He just perted my vitos 404 in stock cyls, and we're already workin on a 7 mil, viper sleeve combo to see if we can roll with RDZ in the 3.80's with stock cyls. He's convinced we might be able to do it! http://www.lakesmotorsports.com/eshopprod_...per_Sleeves.htm

you selling that swaybar you have set out in the back ground? Brett