trickedcarbine

You willing to sell the tranny and fork set up out of it.?

Yea, the actual race is oval track. But there are nice drag lanes right now. There was a guy with an a&s built bike that showed up with tyson racing and that 10mm cub went 98mph on unplowed slush, and did it completely side ways. It was that silver WW2 bomber painted bike with a red frame. Definitely come check out the lake on any weekend and run your bike with picks or chisels. It's a good time!

here is that link to a good cheap set up http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-Banshee-YFZ450-RAPTOR-rear-tires-rim-CHENG-SHIN_W0QQitemZ290404201765QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439d707525

Definitely run the 1 inch. I just watched 2 guys butcher their cross country tires with 1/2 inch studs and they are all over the track . that was one expensive mistake, and it was the guy at the dealer who steered them toward trying to use their good tires. Now when they yank the studs out the tires will disinigrate in the trails. There is a set of c826 cheng shin tires on ebay for cheap and they aren't studded yet. don't worry about the tread being only 50%, you're riding on studs not tread so who cares. they will take 440 each or 880 in each rear if you want two per lug. my shee is sweet with the 440 though. Just make sure you run the 1 inch, there are good deals on the 1000 ct stud packs if you look.

Ok fellas here is the updates. registration will be @ 8:00 AM, Practice @9:30 AM, Racing @ 11:00 AM Here is the link to a flyer. http://tech-care.com/PDF/WhiteLakeIceRaces2010.pdf

yo brooke, as of today there should be a track the same size made up but no garuntees. I will try to get my buddy to come plow it if the guy that normally does it won't. We will be going out this sunday till the sun starts to set . I'm sorry I didn't get back with ya earlier. All my riding has to be very spontanius due to lack of time and scheduling. However my the resturaunt just got toasted by a fire so I guess I'll have some spare time to rip the lakes more now huh? Brett

Hey guys, It's not posted on the d-14 schedule but it is going down again this year. I believe registration is at 9 AM and open practice till 11 AM when racing begins. Take M-59 to Ormond road and go till you see the Inn and a shit load of fun ice rides every where you'll know you're there. I'll update info later Brett

No on the lowering kit, just some +2 +1 armadillo A-arms with the blaster shocks set on the softer side, but the front still sits higher wich is crucial to getting that rear to hook up. It's getting colder again so we'll have to ride. pm me a number to reach you at and once the lakes are ready again I'll give ya a call.

Not feelin' put down, but when I went out to oxford michigan with my buddy and picked these things up for his bike, I asked if these were drag like a cub and the guy told me it's called a drag port but not quite as extreme as a cub, and actually compared it to some heavier dune ports. I rode a 392 cub and it has no bottom compared to the bike I helped my friend put together, but the cub definitely pulls a bit harder albeit the cub had 35's on it and the vitos only had some 28's on it. I just know that my sleeved stock jugs pull hard in trails, but that vito's stealth set up gets me all the time.

Well motodrummer, before it warmed up I turned about 125 laps of testing different stuff out. That Blaster and R6 set up is amazing considering the price and the fact that I can only tell very slight difference between the blaster shocks and a custom afco setup I rode on white lake last year. For LEFT ONLY circle racing you can get much more agressive on the dial in. Try indexing all of your studs on the bike so that the slot is going from about 10 o'clock to about 4 o'clock when looking down at the top of the tire. Not sure what your front shocks are set at but try putting the right front about 1 or 2 clicks firmer. Last but not least run the right tires at about 1-2 psi over the left side. Don't worry about going over the max operating pressure, we're just running ice not trails. once you get these adjustments down, get the sway bar as stiff as it can go with out pushing straight through the turns. SWAY BAR LAST! make sure every thing else is prime, then enhance it with the bar.

There was just a thread about their cylinders about a week ago and NO THESE ARE NOT A STRICT DRAG CYLINDER. Vito's actually has several types of porting for these cylinders, you just have to have them ordered to your specs. There is a bike I helped a buddy put together that runs their big block cylinders and he called and had them run a more mild port on them after casting and that thing out runs my old school sleeves in the woods every time!

There is actually a member on our forums that makes these and they look awsome. here is the link to a thread he has pictures on, just scroll down and you'll see who it is. just drop him a pm and see whats up. brett

Yeah LiftedT4r those are the stealth jugs, however the specific one you selected is their drag port. More like a dune port in my opinion because they try to appease to to broad of a customer. For instance the guy that wants a full drag port and comes back because he cant just roll in to a wheelie in first gear anymore!! Any way, they are available for several strokes and port styles and all for around the same price. The only thing remotely close to the cubs on these is their tripple exhaust, thats it. VITO'S actually markets cub cylinders, and I can assure you that they wouldn't do it if they had their own copy. They only market them to the true drag guys and duners, wich in michigan there aren't as many as you'd think. That is why they developed the new jug and they have customers test these things in the trails and they work. I was gonna run them on a new build but ESR offered me a sick deal on their NEW powervalve jug. http://www.eddie-sanders-racing.com/oscmax/popup_image.php?pID=74&type=jpg Looks like I'll be running a shit load of stickers on my ice bike.

Oh, for the record........who the fuck cares if ya get beat by a zilla, they only needed an extra 150cc of motor. stock to stock, the zilla goes out the hole but if you don't pussy foot around on the shifting and wind 'er out, the shee will reel it in 4-6. just hope the race is long enough to get out of the low gears on the shee.

Here is the apples to apples and oranges to oranges. BOTH machines are dressed with exhaust, intake, and equel tire, oh and lots of super cool stickers.

I just switched to the blaster and r6 combo my self this winter for ice and flat track. It is FUCKING TITTIES!!!!!!! I don't know of any combo that works so flawless for the flat stuff with out shelling out big bucks for custom shocks. The 300 ex are 13 inch and an inch lower then the blaster but if wou want functional weight transfer the blaster shock will be the money shot. If you are interested in very specific info on mounting the R6 rear, pm me and I will give you a sweet way to do it with out having custom bushings made at a shop.

As far as the bigbore sleeve kit, ehhhh......it's ok. I personally run them, but not by preference. I bought them back in like 2002 when the only better setup was a mono jug or dune/drag only twister jug. When I first built these jugs with no real port work they were quicker then any thing I raced except for the dune bikes at silver lake, and even there it held it's own. Almost a decade later technology has reigned supreme and proven big bore sleeves to be obselete due to their habbit of choking down transfers, making a new style aftermarket cylinder a more desirable and cost effective bang for the buck. Problem is that now most big bore cylinders are DUNE/DRAG so that there aren't many choices for the true TRAIL/PLAY bikes. Unless of course you have a bottomless pocket and order a Cheetah with powervalves or a similar pv cylinder. In comes VITO's with a STEALTH JUG. Big bore with free flowing ports, and for the same cost as buying sleeves, machining them, and porting them. These cylinders are PROVEN and are a potent combo in the trails and even ok in the dunes. they have a low end that no cub will ever produce and if you decide you want the top end of a cub these will come close with some thurough massaging of the ports. So yes, the vito's jugs are worth the money, granted you are thinking of running a stroker to accompany them, but if money is still to tight to both stroke and run big bores, then run a stroker crank first and port your stock jugs for your riding. Then you can buy a vito's kit to match your stroke out of the box. If you are not a Dune/Drag guy and live in the trails and maybe go out to the dunes every now and again then these would be an awsome setup for a trail guy with a big set of nuts.

Ok, I am just wanting to throw a few tricks out there that I have come up with for ice and circle bikes. Rear Shock- R6 rear shock is perfect on factory setting for a bike with stock length and awsome on a -2 swinger at full soft. This set up hooks well with a properly studded tire and the front end is very tame. Front shocks- Currently testing with Blaster shocks to keep the front end a little higher then the rear wich will help with weight transfer and proper traction. Yes it helps to lower the front but to low will kill traction and hinder the ability to predictably slide under control. Tried a set of works tripple rates and the bumper was kissin the sky and it is a bit hairy. (blaster are 14 inch, 300ex 13inch, lt230 12.5 inch.) 14 would be a good minimum for custom shocks because it will allow droop for coming out of turns while the front on your rabid shee is fighting gravity. LOWER IS BETTER, BUT TO LOW WILL LOSE RACES ON A SHEE http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124766 Grip tape- Try running a piece of grip tape on the inner part of the nerf bar right next to where your foot rests on the rear brake side. I almost got ate alive by the Kold Kutters today and instantly got a piece from a buddy up the road and noticed a huge difference. This is my preferred footing location in a turn when I need to push or (kick) the nerf through a turn. It is alot nicer to just focus on the race and not think every lap about how if I lose footing on that slick bitch,"my leg is toast. Left knee pad- Most ice racing is counter clockwise so your knee is pressed in to the plastic gas tank shroud right where it meets the seat and it actually leaves bruises if I ride hard enough, and believe me it gets tender. I never like to wear more gear then nesaccary, but try running a knee pad under your pants or outer most layer so that it doesn't destroy your plastic.This helps to dramatically reduce fatigue and increase the duration in wich you can ride as hard as possible. Alter the steering stem- I have helped a buddy with a bad left shoulder cut and re-weld his steering stem for ice racing so that it actually is clocked about 20-30 degrees to the right so that when in the turns it isn't as brutal to keep the bars yanked uptight to the left shoulder. We actually stay off to the left of the seat through the races, and this helps to keep from being in a cocked position, wich again increases the ability to ride harder. this tip actually came from a canadian banshee rider known to ride very fast and very long runs. I personally will be buying a stock stem to modify like this just for the ice season. These are just a few ideas I have used to improve my riding on the ice and ovals, If you guys have any tips or tricks throw 'em out there to help others learn to push the limits.

HOLY SHIT! I was on the ice today and had my buddy helpin me hit my points and while we were messin with the sway bar we talked about flippin the wheels and we actually tried it and found out about the stems rubbing. figured I'd hunt some 90 degree valve stems and ironically the hq solved that issue. But for real I think spacers would be more adequate, and if not I'm already savin up for some +3+1 arms to fix any width issues. Plus Nos_350x is a true flattrack racer and he says the offset kinda hurt handling, so gotta find alternate to flippin any way.

any one reading this post should glance at this updated thread, it has a very clear standing about front shocks on ice, http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124766

nos-350x,,, that was my PM and thanks for answering it in a way that every one could appreciate. I have been trying to tell people that there is no way that a banshee with the front end being lower or at least level will evr transfer weight to get the traction. I just noticed that all the fastest banshees typically have a higher shock, for instance you, loboboy, the pikes peak winning banshees, etc. those hoosier motos could problably take a couple more studs (imo) but then you would lose the ability to comfortably slide, and being that that thing hooks the way it does it may be redundant. So do you think that my works tripple rates will work pretty well? got a rath sway bar to keep the roll down , and scored a very clean set of blaster shocks for 20 bucks to play with to see how they feel. I LOVE THIS FUCKING SITE!!!!! Motodrummer, this season we dual...........as soon as we roost the 4 pokers with ice shavings.

That metal cast is bad ass stuff, gotta really do good prep work for the bare metal stuff, and you can even make plastic look titties! check out my myspace link to my photos and see my NEW BUILD photo album. Every thing that is blue other then the frame is krylon annodiz-it and metalcast paint and I coated it with clear engine enamel.

here it is, just 75 bucks can't go wrong. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-Axis-banshee-raptor-660-rear-shock_W0QQitemZ260527493369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca8a610f9

tpr is the company that built that weird spider show quad that was in dirtwheels, cool goodies on their site