trickedcarbine

Finally, i have made the decision to make my racing hobby in to a serious venture. I am set up for ice racing and flat track, but there are limits to the bolt ons available. I am working on custom +3 +2 a-arms with multiple shock mounts to kick the shock out farther or inward on the bottom for particular tracks like a late model or sprint car. The rear is another story. I currently run a R6 shock on the bike for racing, but between ride and adjustability there is much to be desired. Along with designing an ultra rigid swing arm, it would be a good time to step up to a no link rear shock. Normally a bad idea for the trail guys, but for a flat tracker it is genious! I can only gather miniscule info from the forums and only a couple images. No one over here in my area where I run has a banshee with out much more then lowering kit for flatty stuff. I understand the concept of moveing shock mount up near the top l&r gussets, & keeping the shock at more angle makes it softer. But how do i know if i have to much angle? Wont this stress out my shock? Just looking for the details most would leave out. I already have a peps shock from when it was a moto bike that can be used because i wont need the travel of a full length style shock. Any one got any info for the swap? Fab specs, images, links, any thing would be appreciated.

I know this is an old post, but are you still sitting on that rz tranny cluster twinrock?

Okbeast, i see what you're gettin at. Like in a high hp drag car that keeps blowing junk u-joints apart. Then once you find a u-joint to hold up and then you break an input shaft instead. But the thing with these motors, there are so few parts in them that aside from the forks, there isn't much else to go wrong with out building or assembley error. Maybe the second gear set, but not till the hook up is violent and the clutching is wreckless.

Well, I'm no drag racer, but I run on the ice and going through the gears on a high hp bike with almost 500 kold kutters, certainly roots out the weaker parts. Last season i ran a milder motor and upon tear down i noticed a little warp in the forks that was causing rugged shifting. Upon switching to a 4 mill and upgrading a few other parts i found that it was time to toughen parts up wih out buying 5 grand worth of billit parts. A phone call to 300 below and $350 later, my entire motor was CRYO TREATED & man was it worth it. Already beat this thing on pavement for hours and the internals are MINT! Now, if I had the cash my low end would be billit every thing from tranny out to cases, but then again some one with the cash to run those parts problably has the dinero for the top end and crank to build enough power to necessitate those parts.

Well smurf..... to me it looks like some chain whack has occurred. Some one followed it up with epoxy from the looks of it in the pix. Geez i better get a case saver for my new bike! Actually, ur in michigan right? Just hop on ebay and look up komisar motorsports. Call him and go check the stuff he has shelved. Super chill fella with good prices.

Damn, i didn't think this would turn out like this. I don't know what happened between calvin and rob over the distribution over cp stuff but i do know that rdz is fast. I just wanted to know if these things are any good. As far as i know the site shows a raw untouched casting, then all of them come fully ported and machined for your needs. I dunno, just nuts about running something different, but seems to become a pain in the ass every time.

Well, i must say i am surprised at your post Rob. From what people try to portray you as, i expected a super arrogant jaggoff with a smart mouth, just looking for a crazy argument over this. You seem humble yet confident in what you say. I like that. Just looking for a little assurance that a set of your cylinders would be a wise choice for my set up. With the 4 mil, can they push the 80/90 range on race gas, and still have a decent bottom end to pull out of the turns like a raped ape?

Well, just a waste of money in my eyes compared to gains found by other mods for the same price. However, i do believe these do have some effect on throttle response, just not the power that they claim. Bout the same as a boost bottle. Not enough to justify cost and needed room between the frame rails. Personally i am a believer in air foil technology ( old as it may be ) and apparrently our site sponsor F.A.S.T.'s jeff is as well. I have one of his manifolds and it has a cross hair style foil in it and it does create more bottom then my old upp big carb boots. For just the foils though, powermadd expects too much dinero. If they were like $10 alot of people would problably have them on their bikes. Just don't expect them to line up and admit it.

Just rebuilt my 4 mill and got to test out a jug of that new Be Cool fluid from Be Cool Radiator Co. and that shit is awesome. Ran tight trails, hills, moto track, just stayed cool. Not to mention, it is designed for high h.p., aluminum , and all weather. The cost is titties aswell, just 5 bucks more then the engine ice and about twice the amount.

Well i woule love to run a cheetah with the hybrid servo controller for the pv's in it, but was lookin for viable options for my specific needs. Other wise it'll just be another set of stockers with a 12 port from jim at passion. I would just prefer to venture out and pioneer something different. Hence my wondering about the abilities of the rdz cylinders for my application.

Not sure what you're askin hercal, but if it is in referance to the tss motor, yea the cheetah. T he cheetah and cubs are about the same except the cub is with out the pv's. The trick thing the tss guys do is use a programable cdi unit that not only does the ignition but has a progamable pv servo controller built in. Compare that to the spring pressure controlled pv that a cheetah would normally come with. Pretty trick, because it allows you to fine tune the pv action for your specific needs.(porting,jetting, traction etc.)

Thanks daj & jd. The current motor is a 75ish h.p. 4 mill with big bore sleeves. The porting is done by mike at lakes motorsports. They are good people over there. In fact i just rode all weekend at ogemaw with him this weekend and had a blast. Well.... I guess the real question would be, after looking at those rdz cylinders, does they even look like they would be a decent set up pn the ice or flat track. He claims he would port for my style, but like daj said, he seems to be on the trinity path as well with the cookie cutter stage porting. I want some thing faster then the stockers with a 4 mill. Just seems like a cheetah is the only other viable option. The cub just wont produce the low end i want. Any one out there you know of enhancing the cheetah ports for my type pf riding? The folks at tss in austrailia run them on road bike courses with success. But there are some really neat tricks goin into them.

Well, when i called him saying i was looking for about 80-90 out of an ice/circle bike , he said these will do it. Didn't brag or any thing like that. I know he knows his shit, just wonderin if he is in tune with putting out different styles of power other then drag motors. What is his porting like, does he do any 12 port work? I know i heard that he even played with some exotic styles similar to grand river racing, but havn't really seen other bikes from him but big ol long draggers. Seems to me every shop has it's quirks, but it would be flat out awesome to find a Banshee specific builder here in michigan to really stand up and help put my bike up front and keep the support there if i keep spitting money at their wallet. Just tired of local builders leaving me hangin after they get the cash. It's a busy world. But i don't make alot of money, but this industry has a shit load of my money.

Well, the big bore stockers are about on their last leg, and this means it's time to start looking in to aftermarket cylinders. The current set up is about 75 hp and used for circle track. Meaning the cub is out and a pv cheetah seems just a lil pricey. So after looking around i found that Rob at RDZ is producing a big bore cylinder that is ported to spec for each sale. We all know that any thing with even a RDZ sticker is a freakin runner, but i just havn't seen or heard any thing on these cylinders. Any body around here know any thing about this particular set up? Just lookin' for a faster alternative that will be proven.

Wow, road race technology in a lil' ol banshee. Sounds cool to me. I am workin with TSS on road race pv set up for my new cheetah, so I can dig the high tech. But what exactly is resonance tuning, and how does it work? Any one else harbor the belief that a banshee may soon run 4 stroke torque and street bike power after jim has a few more sleep less years?

K.... Not sure it matters, but this has been eating me for a few days now. I thought for sure that there was already some company runnin the name "Sniper Pipes". So I started to look today and the first hit was right here on BHQ. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=113943 I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but Jim....Gary........, tread lightly. Make sure there are no legal infringements before you go any further with the SNIPER name. We all know you're on to something great here, and it would just be a friggin shame for some nameless schmucks who can't sell another knock off, try to make their dollars on some one who knows the pipes, but not the legalities. Please check it out fellas. Good luck!

K, there are gonna be alot of opinions on this so here is my take. The one brand every one runs to is hot rods,for what reason i don't know. All the SERIOUS banshees that i personally know of seem to eventually need EXPENSIVE repair after the H.R. crank fails after a couple of abusive seasaons at best. Nothing against their product, but like loco said, with a banshee it's not if it fails, but when. I ran a stock stroke H.R. crank for more then a few seasons, but once I got serious about porting, big carbs, etc. It failed even with new bearings. The only major differences you will see in the cranks aside from quality in craftsmanship, will be whether it is rebuildable or not, and if it is a forged unit or not. Now a forged crankworks or twister will definitely out last any Vitos or Hot Rods unit, but you better be ready to shell out the big bucks wich might not be worth it for your budget or particular build. There is another option for the 4 mil guys though, and it is Weiseco. These things are tough! The shop that did my porting is just a grass roots mom and pop shop but his banshees are quick and RELIABLE. He swears that the Weiseco is tougher due to the fact that it isnt a rebuildable base, but how practical is it to rebuild a 4 mil crank any way. After rebuilding my bike with the weiseco, it almost feels smoother then the stock stroke H.R. crank. I can't fully attest to the reliability of the weiseco for my build yet, because the build is still fresh, and is in a fully CRYO TREATED MOTOR, wich helps out a bit as well.

Worm holes, boost ports, auxillary ports, whatever you call them, they do make a difference. The local shop I work with for my porting shows no gains on a flow bench and no real peak power increases, however when coupled a larger exhaust port there are decent gains to be had over using one with out the other. In testing the real gains are in a more linear or broad power band wich comes on sooner and lasts longer and a noticable throttle response is a huge bonus.

Well , this has me kinda wondering what the final outcome will be. Normally the 2-1 pipe is a bad rep, but i just dont think there has been any one to properly design one and back it with real r&d. Just look at snowmobiles. Those machines are a hell of alot more powerfull then ours and many of them run a multiple cylinder in to one expansion style exhaust. My buddy rob just went to kennedy yesterday to pick up a shearer for his blaster and the guy just laughed when my buddy told him about my bike is running rockets and says that the only way to make power is with the shearers. Problem is that any one i have known to deal with kennedy, they have all been convinced that the only thing that matters with a pipe is peak power numbers on a dyno. Now, this 2-1 pipe that he is working with shearer on seems to be a different story. I would love to see the day a 2 stroke pipe is developed to make power from bottom up. But as far as i'm concerned that 2-1 isn't gonna put out what my rockets do, and the regular in frames wont make as broad of a range as the rockets. But my motor comes back from cryo at 300 below and im gonna see if we cant get all three on the dyno back to back on my motor.

Hey loco can we get this pinned?

Lookin for tt tires huh motodrummer? Thought you said you were done for a while. I have been there, it is just part of owning a banshee. I wanna run the indoor track at kart to kart, maybe the waterford track. We'll see though. The new resturaunt build is coming on so time may be tight.

There were some shitty pipes put in the mix because the original owner had farmed out work, then eventually sold off the company. There is currently a BRAND NEW owner, but they are working out a deal to get new dies for stamping, and will be producing new pipes. From what dave at rocket has told me many of the remaining pipes they have are just reworked or fixed pipes that the last owner had sort of hacked. Just find a set that fits right, and has clean welds, and buy that shit! You will never regret it. Also the main difference with the new owner is that the head pipe to stinger flange is changed so that any standard banshee clamp will work.

I just got a set of rockets, holy hell! They pull better then t5 pipes from down low, and yank my arms like a cpi up top. They'll really make that cub shine on the oval and might even make up a little bit for the cub's notorious lacking bottom end. Yes the rockets are far and few RIGHT NOW, but there is a new owner currently setting up a new deal for fresh stampings. So hang om with the t5's, and wait to see what happpens with new rockets.

I just burned the left piston up in my bike on Saturday. I got every thing ordered, so hopefully itll be back together Friday.

Yo Brook, I just went through my second clutch on the ice. I just don't think people realize what a shee on studs will do to a clutch. Any way I would either buy the F.A.S.T. clutch or the one I run is the Driveline Performance Heavy duty unit wich is very similar to the F.A.S.T. clutch. But the real kicker is the Driveline Performance sling shot style lock up. Man that thing is titties. It only runs $219 and it is a huge difference. You will definitely notice alot less slipage, but be careful on the quick down shifts in to the turns because it can be hard on the motor under lock up. I finally ponied up for the lock up and I'm pumped about the results. FYI, You fucking guys put a real nice reverse groove on our practice track! I went to ride Saturday, but some ice fisherman popped a few holes and it just flooded your 12 inch ruts. But it's nice and smooth now! Brett