trickedcarbine

Ak, not neccacarily looking for a big bore serval. I have read anything I could find.(love google) but what I am looking for is a motor with a useble power range similar to the serval, yet still put out more torque as well as upper 90's in hp. It would be similar to the motors that pikes peak builders have ran.

I'm trying to learn a little engine theory as far as tailoring after market cyiliners for my specific needs. I know that the serval is pretty much a tall cub with the bottom ripped off to essentially lower the ports for the low/mid range increase, but at the expense of a little top end. Many builders would do that early on for the trail/duners by buying say a 7mill raw cub, mill the bottom off 3 mills, and adjust the transfers a little for a 4 mil crank, then get it plated and run a set of wsm pistons with little to no base gasket. Get some domes made from Noss, and there was a bike with a good strong curve with about 90 hp and say 40ish on the tourque. So, for a midrange flat track/ice racer like me, I am thinking of taking the same concept of the serval cylinder, and using a super cub instead. I have talked to several builders about the concept, but vaguely. So I would like to buy a 72mm 7 mill cylinder raw, and have it under cut to give a deck height for a 4 mill crank. Hopefully get some where near a 192 exhaust. I would imagine that it would produce a fairly torquey bottom with a way pipey mid to top. Maybe 45 in torque around 6500 and with my rockets and 35.5 TM carbs the power would be around upper 90's. Essentially a hybrid between a serval and large cub. Anyone actually tried this and pioneered the process and found out how to wring every ounce out of a set up like this. Am I a little naieve as to how this works or am I on the right track?

Just trying to get everyone reved up for the new ice racing season. Talk about your new set up, or a new track location. Tell a bit about where you ride and lets try to get a few HQ rides in some popular areas to meet up.

I am trying to figure out what the differencee are between the different levers ASV. I even looked at their web site but it just shows "unbreakable" style on there. They have three styles that I know of. The F3, C3, and the C5. Any one know the differences between them, and were they worth it?

What we have here is just another crazy. This guy is selling a Lone Star swinger and it looks like SHIT! However it will be perfect with a ehem..... port n' polish? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lonestar-Swing-Arm-Rounder-Carrier-Yamaha-Banshee-1-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c57d0716dQQitemZ190451839341QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Pssssshhhh.......... Man, you know it's both! You have problably turned more left handers then anyone else on here. That front tire definitely looks spot on. Oh, I love watching that video where you just slam the door on all those 4 pokers. Then on the next one that asshole lines up sideways and thinks he has your number and you still slay the holeshot! You gotta try and get out on some open lakes this year. The small track is cool, but there is just nothing like the wide open 3rd n' 4th gear turns on ice. Plus it sounds like your bike is just hitting hard right when it is time to pull the clutch in.

Here is Marcel's site. All kinds of sweet photos as well. http://mf44.ca/en/

For the front you will always get a different answer. The key to getting the right set up is usually trial and error. I just cheated and started to call every PRO ice tire builder I could find. The biggest and most noted name I got was Marcel Fournier. He is a Canadien beast! Built more tires then almost any one. Typically he runs Bandit Pure Sports for the front and fortunately for me I had a full set laying around. They are a nice wide flat surface wich puts more stud on the ice. Just like a road race car, the larger the tire surface the better the traction. I have tried alot of front set ups now and honestly the bandit is the best for the monster ovals with fast speeds. They really let you point the bike and pull the direction you aim for. The indoor stuff is alot slower so you really can keep the stud count down up front wich is awesome on the wallet and weight. For studding I have 3 studs in each lug as well as 2 on each small side lug. I would post pix but I can't get photobucket to work with my phone. Pm me and gimme a number and I will text ya some pix if you want.

Man nos, that sure is a pretty big stud, they wont let us run anything over the standard gold pro or kold kutter. Not even the famed kanadien or MF44's. Lmao : ) Those hoosiers are pretty rad for moto x and I expect them to start coming on strong like the maxxis tires did a few years back. How do they hold the stud in the tire under say.........80mph out on the lake? The tamers used to be the claim to fame but us lake racers who get up to higher speeds tend to throw even one inch studs out of them and the shins seem to be the only tire to keep them in and seated. I think the 20 inch shins I use have a pretty good side wall as well. Just enough wrinkle for hook and yet it is firm enough to carve turns. Your set up definitely works, just not convinced that the soft moto tires would hold up out on the higher speed full power stuff. Never saw a hole shot or razr tire that won't chuck studs on a full power high speed straight and then loose knobs in 50mph turns. Touche' on the brutal dream crushing last season by the way nos.

Well, I have seen people use 2 kutters per knob, but they were all having trouble with the rear shock and using the extra cutters as a band aid. Not to mention you would be shelling out about $140 bucks for two bags of studs and that is another couple pounds of hard ware in the tires. Just go with one per knob and see if you can get it dialed. Run the 1 inch kutter as well. They will stay in and hold alot better then the shorter styles. When you install them, air the tire up till it is balooning like an oval. This will stretch the rubber so that when it is fully studded you can let the pressure out and the rubber will collapse and almost hug the threads tighter. If the bike is for left and right turns vary the cut on the head on every other stud.( ie. One going from 10 o' clock to 4 o' clock. The next 2 o' clock to 7 o' clock) For a bike running just left handed ovals, just put them all in the 10-4 o' clock position. Also if your tires happen to leak, just get them in front of a heater and put some tire slime in them. Try to do just a little amount if neccasary. Mine never leaked though. Just lemme know if you need more info for the set up.

Any pictures you have of no link rear shock set ups. My bike is for oval/ice and time has come to get real traction. The only pix I have seen lately are in the recent thread for a drag bike. Whether it is drag, sundahl, TT, or even on a posta rocket Ducati. If you got a picture of a no link set up, post that baby! Thanks, Brett

Well, it is a little more complex then just getting the height and tires. Need to get a swaybar, and make sure the actual motor set up works for the track by using different sprockets to put it in the right rpm range needed.

Just out of curiosity I looked at WCR. Their rates are pretty bad ass! http://www.w-c-r.com/PRICING.htm Not many people really know what it really is but trust me the cryo treatment is hands down the best investment in any banshee with big power. Loco, a bike like yours would definitely benifit from athe cryo process. Take a peek in the automotive racing community. There are alot of guys with parts that just don't hold up, and don't have any aftermarket options yet. But once the parts are cryoed no more worries. Check out 300below.com as well. The applications are endless.

Not off hand. I have a print out that he sent me about a year ago for shifter cart and motorcycle pricing, but I need to dig it up. I had my entire motor done for $350.00. They tried to up the price after realizing how many parts were actually in a banshee motor compared to the lil 250cc motors they usually run for the cart guys though. Should be around 150 for all the tranny parts though.

There have been several attempts on this.........not many will even get past start up. Unless a person knows any and every thing about pulse width, maping, etc., it will never work out. Guys like Matt Shearer, Kevin Gigot, John Stallworth, or Dan Hull are able to do it. But only after doing an easy hundred hours of R&D for every hour we may actually ride, maybe more. I stay in touch with the efi guys regularly so that when it does finally reach a point where you can get an actual kit that works like a KIT, I can get one asap and test. Contrary to what Dirt Dicks Magazine printed, there is no KIT readily available from JSR. But if you can make a big block fire and run right with a Mega Squirt or Motec system, you are capable of making it work. Just be prepared to spend more money and time on your bike then you do on your family.

Forget the billit for now, try sending your new gear set to 300 Below for some cryo treatment. I believe WCR has great rates on cryo treatment as well. Just not sure if they are doing it them selves or sending it out. Either way, pretty good investment. Also talked to John Stallworth today actually, and he swears by micro polishing. Just a thought.

Got a set of red maier's. Everything but the radiator part in front of the gas tank shroud. The nose piece is maier race style, but it has the detatchable fenders that can be taken on and off. Super nice to throw on when i was in the mud up north one time. The rears are still pretty rigid with out the dumbo ear thing that the stockers tend to get. Pm me for pix or price if interested. I want 'em gone, so you get them cheap.

Just sold him some intake goodies. He was super pleasant to deal with and he even powdered his hand before he pimp slapped my ass! Good guy!

Really not a bad bike. Yeah it may need bearings or bushings, but that is an older bike and it is to be expected and a little time spent browsing reputable sellers on ebay can remedy those issues very cheap. There are a few aftermarket goodies on it already that will save you the money and hassel of buying them yourself. Look at it this way. A MINT stock bike will be in the 2-3k range depending on how fresh it really is. Then you will be spending money on aftermarket goodies on top of that. Or you can buy a decent bike that already has the initial bucks invested knowing you want to mod and rework it anyway. Then spend a piddly hundred bucks to freshen the whole thing with new bearings and seals and spend a weekend cleaning and polishing to come out way ahead with a solid bike for less then a stock one you'll get tired of. Jmo that's all.

I don't wanna sound like a dick, but there is no way you will get $8,000. Just might be able to get someone to trade some camaro goodies though. My biggest concern is the fact that your ported 4mil cub only makes 90hp on 100oct. "WHAT THE F**C CHUCK?" Bike is nice though, just be realistic, it is your love that your lover loves to hate no matter how much you love it. You spent that kinda cash to ride with a grin that goes ear to ear and a hard on that won't go away! Face it you're stuck like the rest of us and you will cry the day you do part ways with it. Think it over man, or get bit and build another.

Bump for good parts

The only way I have seen the honda stuff on the front end of a banshee was when it was a leager pro trax front end. Even the hubs were honda bolt pattern. Weird, because i thought the leager frames still ran banshee spindles. The lonestar outlaw can run banshee parts though. Maybe you can see if there is a good aftermarket hub manufacturer that has a honda hub with a banshee style pattern. Chances are, problably not though, most of the hybrid stuff out there is for honda pattern. In my opinion, sell the honda stuff. Get on ebay and pick up some yfz450 calipers for better braking. There is a newer write up on here somewhere, as well as an older write up. They almost bolt up with just a little bit of grinding to the inner shields. Better be ready for an endo or two before you get used to them.

Mike Has done my last two motors, and they were titties. When Mike Gilmore tells you what he will do to your motor he is serious. He isn't a huge name but if he is involved in your build, you will be happy. I currently run a 4mil with his porting on my trail/ice bike and it was so radically smooth that the only way to out run it on the lake is to get an after market cylinder. Just be patient and he will work his magic. Just remember, with any shop work, things can always change. Just because a guy tells you a week today, doesn't mean that the work load won't change tomorrow and put a delay in things. Both me and my buddie's got our cylinder back with in two weeks though.

Sounds like loboboy's setup. Was it blue with full bore plastics? And who did it say did the injection? Kevin Gidgot and John Stallworth put loboboy's together for alot more then 2500 on the injection.

The shell is the whole head minus domes and o-rings. By the way those 20cc domes are gone, but I still have 21cc standard style domes by pro design. I can text or e-mail pix. Just give me a contact number or e-mail address. Brett