trickedcarbine

Try shearer? I think he is on EBay as Pipster or something Like that.

Chariots if you're not doing a ton of mods. If you want it all, VF4's would be the way to go.

Probably better to keep it in the frame if you can get the bike high enough to comfortably work under it. It would certainly keep the motor from wobbling around.

Or maybe it means I like to party...

Check reeds and head gasket

27.5-30 pilot. Needle second from bottom clip. 290-310 ish mains.

You got TSS on that transaction. I've got JT doing a couple small items and when I asked for him to do hubs, his answer was backed up with reason.

There was just a recent thread put together by RajunCajun with a list of the many aftermarket cylinders and what combinations they come in. I'll see if I can find it for ya.

Waste of time. Plenty of banshee motors out there making similar power with half the weight. 9 out of 10 swaps get beat up on by banshee motors that are set up properly.

Run 'em!

This newer, nicer, gayer version of Green is off putting.

DASA manufactured the T-Rex. It was also distributed by Twister, FMF, and I believe a hand full of others. In recent years Tony at TDR acquired a wholesale deal on all the remaining T-Rex stock and parts. He is pretty much the last strong hold for original parts and is also manufacturing his own stuff like sleeves, domes, and gaskets to keep them alive.

Depending on all the mods, 35's may be a bit much on there. But if you intend to keep modding it, go for it.

I had one come apart. I couldn't account for all fragments, so I tore it all down anyway. I just don't like the idea of pieces floating around in the motor.

Dave is an awesome fella

No, but they can come apart.

You really are southern!

Souls of small children or your testicles.

Did you split cases and do crank seals to?

There are both link and no link variations out there. Typically based on CR500 either way.

Did you split the cases and do the bottom end to?

Pretty much seems like you know the O rings let go. That photo shows all the grey crud blowing between the water jacket and bore on the cylinder. Hard to tell if the scuffing is from ring damage or where coolant ran down. Coolant is actually quite abrasive when put between aluminum and steel.

After re reading this, there are a few things I see. First, that^ is quite a bit of timing on a motor still cranking 160psi with exhaust work. Second, if you know what to look for, a leak down may not be a big deal. But to someone who is just learning these things like your self, it is worth doing your first couple times. You said there was "No need" to do a leak down since you knew it needed to be rebuilt. But a leak down would show you exactley where the failure is from. You are doing all this top end work, did you do new crank seals as well? I couldn't begin to count how many buddy's bring me motors they say they just rebuilt everything twice and still have repeated failures. I throw the leak down on it and it's a crank seal. Funny part, typically the crank seal that's puking is the same one that there are failures on.

Yes/no. It just takes knowledge on what does what. You can even do castor as well.

Zero way it sealed up.