trickedcarbine

Stator.

Umm, if he can't tell you what carbs to use with his pipes and porting, he should not be making pipes and should definitely not be grinding on your cylinders.

OP, are you a member on the RZ/RD forums? Don't let folks make you feel like this is an odd build. There are tons of RZ/RD builds out there that have adapted banshee parts. There is plenty of info out there, but you gotta be looking in the right spot. If I were you, I'd venture over there and do some searching. Your combo is quite common.

Honestly, after reading a lot about piston development that is a spot that is quite susceptible to gauling or ring land failure if using very round pistons. Believe it or not, the best for some applications are not perfectly round. For instance, when Calvin Pollet developed the Cheetah cylinder they began testing with Weisco and found that the bridge in the triple exhaust was swelling under heat/load and beginning to contact the piston compromising both the piston and nikasil. So Weisco actually did a slight relief on the piston in that area. Sort of similar area where your piston failure is at the edge of the exhaust to the transfer. It's getting lots of heat off the exhaust and then quenched with fresh mixture from the transfer.

Pipe guy should be able to answer you. But IMO, some 35mm PWK's would be where I'd start. With wide open asphalt riding you'll rarely miss the little bit of grunt right off idle that small carbs like the stockers would provide.

Asphalt or Moto track? And what kind of porting? Those are probably the questions that will dictate which carbs to use.

Air leak. Carb issue.

Good to go.

Boom^ . Always nice to find an easy fix.

You run a shop?

So they built a 4mil stroker and kept near factory jetting. That alone should be a concern. Open the carbs and let us know what exact jets are in there. Mains and pilots.

Yes. Pro mod is what you want. The trans to avoid for general use would be an over ride trans that is meant for drag racing or wide open dune use.

Could be a multitude of things. Ultimately it needs to be set up right with the right gaskets and tolerances before even thinking about getting it to run right.

That's pretty big on the squish. You should be trying to drop two pieces in so the piston can't rock side to side. Either way, it may make some sense to pull the head and check deck height and order new domes.

Solder is the way to check it.

its possible that the head is t sealed and the motor is eating the coolant and fouling the plugs. Post pics of plugs.

What is squish at? What is compression? Any timing? And what fuel? Only 10 thou off the head for sure?

Joe

There is a Sundahl for sale.

Cranking compression isn't the sole factor on picking fuel. Always know the calculated compression and use the cranking compression as an indicator of what the motor is doing inside. You can have a motor built for race fuel, but have an exhaust large enough to let some volume pass. So the number may look lower on a gauge. But kudos to you for checking with multiple gauges.

Well, not much info on that unicorn swap.

But my brother's friend's uncle said that .....

There is a dude on Facebook selling conversion kits for the motor mounts and what not.

Hit up JDS

No! If it's assembled right it'll be fine. Moving the cylinder lower without adjusting the ports to accomadate is gonna make it run like turd.