trickedcarbine

OEM ignition components and a timing plate are the most reliable way to get it done.

You can definitely have your stock cylinders ported for the stock stroke crank. It would be the best bang for the buck performance you can do to any motor. Porting is where the power is. It is also the first step in the trickle down effect that makes us all spend so much money. If you do decide to port the cylinders, whoever does that should also set up your domes. You can have the whole thing tailored to your particular riding and for the fuel you want to run. There is a list of site sponsors on the homepage. Look at prices on their web sites and make some calls and see who you feel comfortable with. As far as fuel mixture. Just run a quality known product and mix it per instructions.

Honestly where you have it should be pretty damn close since the Air Box is on it. If you were to switch to pods, I'd say go to 30 pilot, 290 main, and fine tune the needle. But I'd suggest ordering 290 and 300 mains, as well as the 30 pilot.

OEM ignition components, with an adjustable timing plate.

I would do a detent arm with the bearing, but I've found that it's a more positive feel with the factory spring. Definitely mod the shift shaft.

The Elka linkage is the variable that doesn't work out. Most swing arms barely allow a cunt hair of wiggle room on install. Then add the linkage that one out of every few thousand banshee riders have, and it's a toss up. If you're serious about developing your own linkage, this should be one of your top concerns.

Those dip switches change which curve the CDI runs. Any way to unwrap it and verify if it is an old Dyna or ProCom?

I just envision the timing plate being set at + 4 and the Dyna getting set to an advanced curve. That's a fuck ton of timing for a motor to see on just pump. But if it gets set up right, it'll be fine on fresh premium.

👆Is why I said to start out with to much octane. I'd like to see someone keep one of these things in one piece for a change.

Correct, it's really on tipping point. However I get the feeling he is gonna be looking to throw as much timing at as he can get.

Do not waste your time or money. OEM has proven superior. The only exception is for guys at the upper echelon of racing running motors that actually benefit from several hours on the dyno to developing custom timing curves on aftermarket CDI's.

Not really. OEM ignition components has proven superior in reliability making the .001 percent difference not worth the high cost and reliability risk.

With higher compression 20cc domes and timing, definitely bank on running 110. In all honesty, you don't need a Dyna CDI, as results will be marginal. The good ol fashioned timing plate is the most reliable way to advance the timing. CDI is hundreds, and the timing plate is about $50. If you insist on trying the CDI, make sure your timing plate is at zero or the Dyna is programmed to compensate whatever you have on the plate. Also, with setting a motor up for race gas, you need to consider making sure the crank is true and get the pins welded. Also put a couple new Max Load bearings on the out side ends. As far as 34mm carbs, the PJ's are cheap and can be made to run ok, but a set of PWK's from Keihin would run better. My concern is that you are looking at carbs that may be a bit to big for the set up you are going for. With out doing port work and a stroker crank, you should be looking at 28mm or 33mm PWK's. 28's if you're running trails and need more bottom end. 33's if you are in more wide open terrain.

It's like the difference in shifting an old hot rod camaro with an ol' Muncie Rock Crusher and then driving one with a T-56 from Tremec. So worth it.

So, pretty much turning the stocker in to a Marvin Shaw? Or would it be closer to a Fox Float?

CPI. The SLP's will sign off a bit early for the Riding you say you're doing.

16" is to long for standard A Arms and to short for the LT arms available for banshees. You'll want 14-14 3/4" shocks for any arm that is not long travel. Note:^pertains to Banshees not other quads.

Almost 10K, and there are no powervalves on that run.

Going in a lightened stock frame for TT/Ice Racing. Little port work, Snipers, and Race Fuel.

Are you trying to go back to a banshee motor? If so, consider getting another frame.

For sure. I'd also recommend going 485 or bigger. The 421 really doesn't utilize the large intake to its potential.

You can pick up old T Rex's for cheap and TDR has or makes just about anything you would need. Or hunt for a used Cheetah. I found a very well sorted 535 Cheetah for a stellar deal and the 521 super serval should be going together pretty quickly. It's just a mountain of boxes at this point. Can't wait to compare the two.

You do see the RPM in that graph right? And that is Mikes graph. His was non PV.

Because the powervalves allow you to still have an early mid range hit and rpm like a mudda fukka. Where as just drag porting a typical cylinder makes it a bit of an all or nothing motor. With powervalves, you can actually take the cylinder quite a bit farther and not sacrifice ridability. Granted it's done right.

Any more done to it? If so, find out what a similar combo should be jetted at and check that the previous owner doesn't have the wrong jets in it. Time and time again I see guys buy bikes with bolt ons that just don't run right. Then they keep riding it and eventually melt it down before checking jetting specs.