Jump to content

trickedcarbine

HQ Premium Member
  • Posts

    15,199
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    159

Everything posted by trickedcarbine

  1. It is possible you need a longer cable with that stem.
  2. The mark lines up before the lever goes on. You should be able to pull the actuator over by hand and be roughly close when the shift rod, ball, and adjuster make contact. Loosen the lever adjuster all the way, then hook up the cable. Once hooked up adjust the lever. Do you own a Clymer's manual?
  3. Look on the Beringer Brakes website. They got what you need if you're serious. Definitely don't think the rear master can push enough fluid to activate all three calipers effectively.
  4. Dang, sounds like that thing is still hurting for power. If you wanna run pump fuel, I'd say get another set of domes cut.
  5. Definitely feed it better fuel. Also, any idea who set the motor up? Is it just box stock Trinity? You may wanna check a few things over to be sure it's got a few key items corrected.
  6. Regardless of the length, roundhouse style is mandatory. They stay straight and adjust super quick.
  7. -2 will give you the traction for sure. But you're lighter then I am so the front certainly will be up more. Maybe hold off till you can ride the new motor on the stock swing arm. Then you can determine if you want to go shorter. Definitely avoid going longer if it sees mostly trails.
  8. Sure, but if it's adjsted to far beyond the arrow toward the kick starter, you run out of throw/travel for disengagement. Thats fine for over ride guys as long as there is enough travel to keep the bike from creeping at the line. Not so great for the typical rec rider.
  9. Re adjust the pancake. Don't worry so much about the arrow on the cases so much, but getting it close helps the throw. What cable? I've never had any trouble as of yet.
  10. No CPI's that would work on that. I do have a set of big bore in frame shearers that would work on there.
  11. Definitely start hunting for different pipes. Those FMF's on there will not move the kind of heat that motor needs, so keep an eye on plugs. You may end up having to make it a tad rich to keep temps down.
  12. Tusk should work with you on that. Call and offer to pay for a new one to be sent right away and return the bent axle and I'd imagine they would credit you for the new axle.
×
×
  • Create New...