trickedcarbine

Hit up D&M. They're in AZ.

As far as all the wear items in the low end, replace most of it with OEM. However things like clutch parts, and pancake bearing will be best to go aftermarket. As far as the Pro Mod, it's basically just machining a few items on the gear set itself and some guys do a bearing on the end of the shift drum and smooth out the tips on the shift star so the roller on the detent arm moves over them smoother. It allows you to be about as mean as you want to the trans and it'll be like going from an old muscle car trans, to a new Tremec. As long as you know how to prep gasket surfaces and torque it all properly, it should live just fine. More often then not, it's something silly that causes melt downs. A reed gasket not sealing, or guys who kill a top end due to crank seals, but just do another top end. 9 times outta 10, it's something just over looked.

With that amount of time on a motor, you need to be thinking about far more then just replacing the Pistons and crank. There are several wear items that are in the low end and if you are splitting the cases, it makes sense to take care of it all at once so you don't need to deal with it again. Things like the Transmission bearings, shift shaft, shift eccentric screw, any easier shifting mods, all clutch parts, crank seals, pancake bearing, clutch actuator arm, shift rod and ball, maybe even do a Pro Mod transmission so it shifts nice and easy. Pretty sure Jeff at FAST has a whole package price for all that type of stuff with all the little special OEM clips and washer type stuff. Now is definitely the time to handle it all. In all reality, Banshee's are about as easy as they come. You have the Clymer's manual and if you've read it all, you should be good to go. If you're not sure, hit up D&M racing and talk to Doug or Shane.

99% of the 421 motors out there perform better with a small bore pipes. The typical cut off point is about 500cc's depending on pipe manufacturer.

Toomey sends all the goods.

Fireball, Lonestar, Laegers, or JL for the swinger should suffice. I believe Tim at Stellar is slowing down on some fab work.

Hmm, shouldn't be having any of that trouble. Definitely replace all the hard parts, add a new bushing on the basket, make sure trans shaft end play bad isn't bad, and try three and three combo of springs. If it's all new I can't see how it would keep doing that.

Driveline lock up or finger style lock up?

So you need cylinders and carbs? It may make sense to deal with someone like Driveline.

Garbage

What seller? More often then not, it's garbage.

Anything one piece is the way to go.

35's will be a bit to big for that. Go for the 28's or keep the stock carbs.

Correct. Spacers are for stroker set ups. Even then there are ways around them.

110mm rod is standard. 115 rod will require 795.

Hit up Kompulsive Concepts.

^yup

Drag racing?

I recall the WSM big bore stuff was 12* not 13*. Does the 1* even make much of a difference?

Switching to those mids will definitely get it motivated earlier then the CPI's. I would suggest not selling you're CPI's if you have any plans to do a bigger motor in the future though. Or at least ride it with the Mids before selling the CPI's.

You'll need to measure the deck height, and know your piston part number. Call or email a shop willing to ship to you. Fast, Noss, etc... Give them the deck height (how high the edge of the crown sits above the cylinder at TDC.) Then make sure they know what piston you're running and they can set up the domes to fit the profile of the WSM pistons which are a little different then typical Weisco options. My old short track motors were big bore stock cylinder set ups, so let me know if you have any other questions.

35mm PWK's are awesome on the right motor. What are you wanting to put some on?

Even though Special06 is a quitter and sold his, I must agree with him on starting with a complete donor bike.

Find a nice used 4mm Serval motor. 4mm is typically the most stroke that fits in stock cases with out modification and a Serval cylinder is a very common aftermarket cylinder that is set up with porting that is aimed more toward the recreational/trail riders. Motors like that are capable of making about 80hp and 50 ft lbs of torque on pump gas and not much timing. To make a stock cylinder motor do that is gonna take a lot of compression, timing, and expensive fuel.

There's a few questions that'll need to be answered to steer you in the right direction. What is you're intended use for it? What is your budget? How mechanically inclined are you?