trickedcarbine

Super. Especially if you wanna go sleeperish. Most guys looking at it won’t know what it is. And of the few that catch that it’s a cub of some sort, won’t know exactly what you’ve got. Once you go DM, the intakes, the cooling hoses, and just sheer size of the cylinder give it away right away that it’s no little cub.

Get the arrows close. Then adjust the nut at the end of the shaft in the middle of the plate.

^that.

Just go alky. It’s all the same work, yet alky is far more clean, consistent, and better power to be had. The E85 is just so inconsistent from a pump. It’s fine for a car that can keep electronically changing on the fly. But for carb motor, it would mean making adjustments.

We have a member here that could handle that for you. Paging Claude...

Here’s a dms build.

You’ll want 21-22 cc domes for that fuel.

27.5 pilot. What filter is on the 2-1 intake. K & N style or Foam?

10/4. I’ll do some digging on graphs. Testing mine showed pretty smooth transition all the way up. They were BB’ on a 535 Cheetah though.

Flat spot? What graphs are you seeing? Mine was a big bore set, so it could be different. But there was no flat spot. None on the smaller cub stuff I’ve seen either.

Maybe. But my Laeger swing arm from that era didn’t look like that.

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/locks-landing/product-details-motorcycle.html

Kryptonite brand chain saved mine. There were two exploded cut off wheels on the ground after the neighborhood kids gave it a go a few years back. I have it attached to a steel D ring anchored to the concrete using Hilti epoxy and RedHead concrete anchors. The epoxy is in the holes for the lags, on the threads for the fastening nut, and the plate to the floor surface. I then took a junk socket that was a little big and rounded off the hex nuts.

So... Is this thing still around?

Yeah. I was way pissed and pushed for some accessories/updates after dealing with all the headaches and issues. After the wait, they didn’t work well indoors, and they didn’t do well in the cold. So they sent a cold weather battery pack and cover, and they sent a new update and attachment for the indoor use. I’m not totally sold on all of this, but I admit the concept is pretty cool. It’s nust gonna take some patience to see folks perfect the technology and software.

I ordered a Mishimoto Intercooler and piping for my Duramax and it’s decent quality workmanship. Fit was not bad considering I went from OEM to Custom. My buddy also runs their Rad and Intercooler on his Evo, equally as nice as what I put in my truck. I you keep your eyes peeled, there are tons of old Torch Works, Blue Torch Fab, PWR, & Toomey radiators for under $100 in awesome condition. If not, those cheap ASI ones on EBay are getting surprisingly good results.

LED’s don’t need the high output like the big ol’ halogen or HID lights.

That^ LOCO may be willing to help out if you’re not a total doofus and are sort of able to take direction. Time to just bite the bullet and do a full year down. Give it a once over now and you won’t have to keep taking it apart to fix one item at a time. Call FAST and ask if they are still doing their lower end package. It’s all the odd clips, retainers, and wear items that go in the motor.

Been fooling with the Solo Shot over the last year and it’s getting pretty sweet.

Hit up Robert Pierce on Facebook. He is SheeRider here and has a nice set of rebuilt Axis shocks for a banshee he has been wanting to sell or trade for floats.

Roger at Wicked has actually already done that. Lol

Yes. Especially when that shed gets some sun on a cold day. Everything starts to condensate. Inside the motor is no exception.

Any time you are not on the throttle you need to have the clutch pulled in.

Any of the high temp fire blanket/insulation stuff I’d say is worth trying.

10 hours of riding and the typical pink stuff is about toast.