trickedcarbine

Pull the clutch cover. Look at the shifter shaft that passes from the Stator side of the motor to the clutch side. It wraps around the shift star. If you can wiggle the claw on the end it’s time to replace it. Also, check the bushings it rides in. Pretty rare that those go bad, but it does happen. While you’re at it, inspect all of the shifting components like the star, eccentric screw, and detent arm.

The words “quality” and “Boss bearing” in the same thread...

Just gotta reach in there or pop the seat off when firing it up.

Time Bombs usually tick before they go boom. Tear it down.

For mostly drag and open dunes, I’d say go Cub or Driveline Assassin cylinders. Sniper Racing Pipes. V Force 4 reeds. Race gas if you’re wanting to set it up and leave it, alky if you’re a good tuner.

How big of an oval? It may be better to start off with a Serval Cub and port that.

🤦🏻‍♂️

27.5 pilot, needle middle clip, 290-300 main.

Black and yellow wire off the Stator are should be the lighting circuit. Typically the kill switch has one wire that hooks to the electrical at the coil, and the second wire will go to a ground on the frame.

Bumping this for FB folks

Keihin. There are more of them out there sorted and thus, more set up information is available.

That thing is toast. The cushions are gone. Also, The marks on the inside of the clutch basket fingers are pretty bad. If they’ll hang up a finger nail, they’ll mess with the clutch action. Time for an upgrade.

What cable is on this thing?

😬

Wow, this thing is so close to a meet down. You NEED to get it re jetted asap. 27.5-30 pilot, needle middle clip, 280-290 mains.

Do you need a hand? I know a guy, you just have to have cash and supply the plastic barrel.

Definitely do a stainless bolt kit, but make sure to only run OEM or equivelant on the pivot bolt, A Arms, and shocks.

You will need regular style 513 banshee style pistons for a stock crank. If you want the blaster pistons to work, you’ll need to do a crank with 115 rods.

That motor needs race gas before you burn it down. Way to much compression and timing to be on pump gas. If you intend to keep running 91 octane, you’ll need to dial it back to 4-5 degrees max timing and get some new domes cut for pump fuel. Your idle for PJ carbs is done with the choke knob. Turn them all the way in, Mark them with a paint pen to keep track of how many turns out they are. They should be between 6-8 turns out. The air screw on the side of he carb should be 3/4-2 turns out on PJ’s. Any higher or lower you’ll want different pilots in them.

Mid 30’s

Timing plate at +4, 28mm carbs, pod filters, cool head and custom domes, and lots of suspension.

What needles?

35’s if there are tight hill shoots and spots where you need more throttle response. But if it’s mostly wide open dune cruising, drags, and hill shooting the 39’s will dominate.

No graph here. I will see if my guy at the dyno can email one. The Cheetah is just a clean up port with lots of case work. 39 pwk’s, 7 degrees, race gas Titan domes, Sniper big bores. Consistent 5-7 hp over the Big Bore Shearers that it came with.

Stator could certainly cause those issues. It’s definitely not those pipes. The Vito’s pipes should be happy in an RPM range between the CPI’s and Shearers. They are not the issue.