Toybreaker

If you have the property owners permission there is plenty of varied conditions to ride in south jersey.... trails, sand, hills (small ones at the sand plants) be ready to bag ass there though the security guys at the plants are pricks...

Go spend some quality time with the guidos at the shore

Smart ass

Good read, again....

they will work.... not too many people run round slide carbs that far over stock size..... If you get them I would try researching jetting and set up on snowmobile messageboards.

Giving Jeff a much deserved GOOD SELLER BUMP got the parts in 2 days, went full redneck for me, (I live in Maine so it is fitting) I'd absolutely trust this man with an internet/messageboard purchase. parts are as pictured as described!

stock carrier? for that kind of money why not spring for the round carrier?

HEH HE HE HE HE HE the sold didn't persuade him... the age didn't persuade him.... Honestly was expecting Jon to go on a bumping tear and bring a couple hundred threads up from the abyss...

He likes to not take responsibility for sending wrong parts (obviously his fault) does not ship on time, or refund when necessary.... I did 3 minutes of research and figured this out..... Your money, do whatever the hell you want with it.

Doesn't change the fact that they have a large number of bad reviews. Use another vendor.

BP Racing has a bunch of bad reviews.... look at the sponsors on this site, or do a 392 assasin build... with slp pipes, and a larger fuel tank....

they put graphite in a solution of isopropyl alcohol, it does the same thing.

Bluing IS NOT LAYOUT DYE. https://www.grainger.com/product/SPRAYON-Layout-Fluid-1D272 <----- layout dye https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/permatex-4569/engine-parts---mounts-16774/assembly-lube---valve-compound-17697/161f9b3092dc/permatex-prussian-blue/80038/4610208 <- bluing Bluing does not dry Any fool can hit it with sandpaper, crocus cloth or lapping compound and call it good. To know for sure that you fixed it properly you need to blu check it.

Buy some bluing compound, put a super light coat on the flywheel seating surface ( wear gloves) seat it with the key ways lined up. should be 90% or greater transfer when torqued to spec, If not lap some, recheck, rinse lather repeat.... https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/permatex-4569/engine-parts---mounts-16774/assembly-lube---valve-compound-17697/161f9b3092dc/permatex-prussian-blue/80038/4610208

It doesn't look like anything will be raised when you split them, but I can not tell from the photo.

If there is raised metal that will interfere with the cases sitting flush then you need to make the seating surface flat. If it does not get into the sealing area then it is fine.

wire brush the rusted studs, if the threads look good use the non whacked case.

I am jealous. I have not even started taking my bike apart yet

Buy some sheet metal and make them yourself

I had 22x10x8 extremes (on bead locks), too much paddle for the stock engine, just right for the 74 hp drag ported, stock stroke, stock cylinder engine

Tony, common sense has no place here.

What should the timeframe be then? 4-6 months? get rid of a bunch of data if the classifieds were purged... from 2003..... https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16356-chrome-power-pro-silenced-drag-pipes-and-fmf-fattys/

Yeah but it is annoying when a sale thread from 2013 or older is bumped by some moron, other than Nyuk... Hell I would do it.... and turn in my superpowers when I was done.

Lots of old threads get dragged back because people post thinking something might be available 10 months after it was originally posted... can a mod lock or delete old for sale threads?

I would tear down my bike at the end of the season and check the bores for size and roundness, if they were still in spec and I could hone them clean I would re-ring it. Its possible to just re-ring it, or change the pistons and rings "correctly"