Toybreaker

List the link, I'll post on FB for you. PM me your email and I'll send it to interested folks on FB

I get shit on at work for unorthodox methods. I get shit done, all that matters....

Post the results please. Rollers 54 rockwell C scale cage in the low 30’s

look like warrior ball joints to me. can't say for sure. But I have similar ones in my Roll Design arms....

are you trying to upload with tapatalk? download the app, stupid easy to load pictures... resizes them for you.

Pictures would help this move.... easy to post with tapatalk

Looking forward to the first fire video

We are talking about the engine? Not his goats?

Pretty sure glamis is different from Or which is different from Idaho which is different from Oklamhoma..... with my 370 74 hp i ran 8” diameter bead locks 8 paddle haulers w 67 roll out, 10-14 paddles 70+ roll out?

I still have. Parts from 2008 that I was trying to sell. But when I’m scrolling through the for sale stuff and I see something where the seller has it listed it as not sold but it’s older than three or four months I don’t post on the thread I send the guy a PM

if you check his profile you will see he hasn't been on in over a year........ so yeah keep bumping a thread that hasn't seen any traffic since june of 16.....

slackabilly

Now is the time to put a stroker crank in it then.....

Post 5 and post 7 really should know what you have posted, rode it, found some air leaks, fixed em with rtv rode again and said it still wont come on the pipe... tell me again how i am assuming things? search for leak down tester, go to hardware store buy the shit, do the leak down test. report back

I am going full asshole now STOP FUCKING RIDING IT UNTIL YOU GET IT SORTED OUT! you are going to roach the “fresh” top end do the fucking leak down test first. best place to start from.... if you dont want to folow the advice here then stop posting and burn down your bike.

If it was in new condition than half the cost is a good deal It needs bearings and powder /paint. I, like most people, think your asking price isn't reasonable. So then "fix it" and use it. You won't sell it for near your asking price.

If it was reasonably priced I would be interested, the fact that it is bare metal Is a good thing for me... But there is a laeger and lone star swinger for sale local for $300 each with carrier.

my bike has fatties. cool head 22cc's, tors delete, VF2's, no lid on air box with the aftermarket k&n style filter. 280 main, 27.5 pilot, toomey needle 2 clips up from point side. Jetted for glamis, didn't bother changing jetting for summer riding....

#1 STOP RIDING IT until you fix the issues or you will be doing another top end. #2 do a compression and leak down test. #3 report results here

If the bike has any hours at all, the bores probably are out of round and tapered. 2 strokes are actually pretty forgiving with fresh rings on worn out bores, for a redneck repair it works. But it is a grenade waiting to go off. ( i am not saying it is an acceptable repair, just saying it can work) besides, are you sure your bike is on the factory bore?

No Better, but still, no You are moving up to a 4mm crank. You need the cylinders worked to get the port timing optimized for the extra stroke, domes cut to use stock cylinders and you won't be able to reuse the stock 64mm bores for long. just get ahold of a site sponsor (I have been plugging driveline a LOT lately, this is the route i am taking on my bike next season) and have a REAL conversation as far as real use and expectations. You will be very happy with the results.

What he said....

He can flintstone it....

Driveline assasins are better than athena...

Go with the Driveline Assasin setup. Email or call, the website is going to say out of stock..... sells them out as fast as they get them made....