Toybreaker

Quadzilla engine is almost a drop in. cr500 and kz500 will fit but need to cut weld and fab engine mounts. This swap is easier with the 87-90 chassis. I am still in the process of putting a 4mil banshee engine in an 86 chassis. Once i get all my derelict trucks sold i can concentrate on it! ::

It is already apart. I say Port it now. If you decide to wait and the porter nicks a cylinder you will have to overbore it. Save your self the headache(and money) and port now.

got mine at autozone

The bottom washers don't stop the side to side play. It is always there. The top washers are the important ones. From the video the crank looks usable. I would run it.

Like he said tear it down and take it to a machine shop. If the skirt to cylinder clearance is good have them break the glaze and put a crosshatch back on it. If it isn't worn past manufacturers specs why bore it before it is necessary? Either way works.

87-92 cranks do not interchange with the 85-86. he mentioned using the later rod for a long rod combo. the washers go at the TOP of the rod not down on the rod bearing area. A pretty screwy design. they get brittle after 3 or 4 seasons and eventually break apart causng a big old mess If the guy that did the top end last time didn't put in those washers probably caused the last session of carnage. You are going to have good handling fun trail bike when you get it back together.

If the fabricators weld it properly, stress relieve then temper it it is stronger, and about the same RC as 4340 steel. if they don't stress relieve it and temper it after welding then yes titanium is brittle and WILL NOT last as long as mild steel let alone a good chrome moly or 8000 series steel. No Even if i had the money $7k for a hobby bike isn't worth it. Not for 21 lbs any way. Spend the money on suspension. You will be VERY happy with the results.

the side to side play is normal. the side thrust is managed by the shim/washers i showed you in the link above. If the rod bearing has a ton of play up and down you need to replace it. If you are the do it right since it is out, get it rebuilt or buy a new one. I have run boyeson and stock reeds. No difference in output. couldn't tell any difference in the throttle response either. It ran 10.40 in the 1/8 mile on asphalt regardless. Stock ones are steel i ended up putting them back in.

the washers go up at the top of the rod between the piston and pin bearing. http://216.37.204.206/alba/Suzuki_OEM/Suzu...mp;A=1&B=46 check that out. you need to replace or buy new part number 6

the bad thing about the suzuki is the side to side play is regulated by 2 hardened washers that are held in place by the piston pin. If your trans and crank are toast give me a pm i have a COMPLETE 86 250 that is usable for parts. I am sure if i cared i could bore the cylinder and have a complete spare. I have an 85 and an 87 lt as well as 2 banshee's if you need any info on yours or more tips send me a pm I'll give you all the info i can. For $125 i am VERY jealous. Just the swinger and rear brake caliper will net you over $125 on fleabay A LIST OF STUFF I FEEL LIKE I NEED TO BUY FOR THIS PROJECT - Case gasket set $20 -New rod bearing $18 -New piston $78 (wiseco) -New wheel bearings $38 for all -New control cables $50-80 -Swing arm bearings $40 -Ancillary crap $100 don't forget piston pin bearing and washers oh and Bills pipes made a pipe for this bike. Not sure if they still do But i have one on my '85

I run barnett steels, springs, and R1 fibers in a stock basket.

If no other dealers or small shops have it in stock I try Alba Thats why i call and ask if the part is in stock. If so I put it on order willcall. If they have to order it i go to motoworld in el cajon. they call you when stuff comes in. ALBA Doesn't As far as buying a bike there I wouldn't. Tried about 7 months ago and it was like they didnt want my money. So If no one else has it in stock and they do I will go there.

yeah I don't get it. this site won't let me upload my pics. Give me your email so i can send em to ya.

I ported my buddies 03 SE banshee almost identical to your mods except 20cc domes, and V-F2's 320 mains 32.5 pilots air screw 1.75 turns out needle in the middle on his

Depends. What bore are the cylinders? Are they ported? Do you get your choice of dome size for the head? What brand and type of pistons? If this kit needs spacers does it come with them and ALL the gaskets to put your engine together? lots of variables. Biggest question. Do you think it is worth it?

O k i will take some pics for you today and have them posted by 4 pm pacific. Just in case i am a complete techno morom and can't get them to post can you pm me your email address? that way i can get the pics to you regardless. Oh i have the sleeves to connect the 35's to the stock airbox. You want those too?

You pay to ship everything and i have a set of 35 pwk's for you

kick starter gear assembly idler gear between kickstarter and clutch crank (including the gears on the clutch side) shipped to 92040

So what parts do you need. Where are you located? Have a title for the suzuki?

Read the jetting FAQ clean the air filters fresh plugs put in a 32.5 pilot (buy 30 and 27.5's too) (Motoworld had them in stock when i bought mine on tuesday) I would go one clip up on the needle too but start with the pilots. before i swapped to TORS eliminated carbs i was pulling 4th up olds :beer: Good luck with your tuning. It takes patience

List it on cr500riders.com

The idle screws are drilled. They are screwed all the way in. Pull the slides and the brass tit is almost .3(about 9mm for you metric types) into the slide's bore. The throttle cable adjustment at the handlebars is all the way out, the tops of the carbs is all the way out. I don't understand it. going from 25 all the way up to 32.5 pilots has made no difference. It runs the best with 27.5's the needle has no bearing on the idle circuit but i played with it too. 2nd slot for the blunt end runs the best. Still won't idle. I am tempted to put my TORS carb set up back on. It idled. I went through the carbs before i installed them. blew all the passages with brake cleaner and compressed air. Made sure the jets were clean and gunk free. Mechanically nothing is wrong. I really hate having to play with the throttle to keep it running while i am sitting still.

Ok I read the FAQ But, is there another way to get the idle adjustment without removing material from the carb bodies? Here is the skinny 1988 64.25mm bore, stock stroke welded and trued crank V-Force 2 reeds stock carbs with tors eliminated idle screws all the way in, cables adjusted all the way out everywhere it can be adjusted cool head with 20 cc domes jetting as follows 320 mains 27.5 pilots stock needle at 2 slot from blunt end plug chop shows proper jetting no bog anywhere just a little soft on the bottom end. Screams on top. Is there something electrical i am missing with the tors elctrical stuff?

that frame have a clear title?

Yeah I coasted down olds with the clutch in. I did get the ball and rod out after beating the shit out of it with a 2 pound ball peen and a 10 inch drift punch. The punch was 9 3/4 inch when i finally got it out. Shaft is straight and unmarred but the ball and pushrod are DESTROYED. I wasn't worried about getting it apart i would have frozen it with liquid nitrogen and then thrown it in a heat treating oven at 600 degrees for an hour. while it was still hot that pushrod and ball would popped right out.