Toybreaker

I am looking to sell my 85 LT250r It needs a top end. as it sits I would take $800 If i get the top end redone I would want $1450. I would split the case and replace the crank seals as well as make sure the crank was clean and free of melted piston. But I am currently on deployment and will not be back until octoberish If you are still looking for one then PM me.

I am curious. Almost ALL of my quad experience is Desert and Dunes. I am going to be moving back east soon. Northeast i think. How do they calssify amateur riders and their bikes? When i move back east i am keeping my Shee and the hybrid that i am building I think that my hybrid will be a good XC bike to Race. but what would they do with a Banshee engine in a different chassis? Would i even be able to race it?

I made one set of adjustable struts. I used 6061 T6 for the upper and lower pieces both tapped for 1/2 20 nf threads 1 left hand 1 right hand I made a 4.5 inch stud out of 3/4 inch 1010 steel hex stock one side right hand the other left I bushed the bolts holes in the aluminum with OILITE 3/32 wall thickness I thought about the heim joint method but that was more expensive... And being a government employee i get paid whether i work or not :cool: All it took to adjust was a 3/4 open wrench or crescent hammer. Don't forget the lock nuts!

Would it be worth the effort when rebuilding a crank to get the bearing/rod/piston assemblies balanced? It would only be a "static" balancing since we can not spin the crank with bob weights but every little bit helps.

You may want to get some "struts" made. Figure out the ride height you want and get a machine shop (or metal shop at a VOTECH high school) to make them for you. I played with my shock settings front and rear and then i went "rigid" with the struts. I am more consistant and quicker with the strut set-up. Just make sure that the center to center distance on the front are within .005 inch to one another. Another thing is to run the fronts at max pressure for the tire to lower rolling resistance. Drag racing is addictive.

Last trip of the season to glamis for me this season. 2 days after this trip is over I went on deployment to IRAQ. Ok so we roll in to camp about midnight. Get set up. Its about 1:30 now. Lets go for a ride we think. We roll out of camp around 2 am. Taking it slow. got a full moon good visibility. Riding from wash 14 heading towards OLDS hill. Go up and over olds into the bigger stuff between olds and Osbourne/comp hill. Nice leasurely cruise. Get into the valley in there. Some nice gentle rolling hills. Get a little confident (Riding a new LTR450) Get on it a bit, and then the ground isn't there. Its about 25 feet down. I jump off and roll when i hit. <bang> see a flash and feel the bike roll over me. Jump again(not too smart) thinking i jumped to the side. <BANG> get hit in the head and feel the chain go over my arse. This time i just lay there for a minute and spit sand. When i get up i can't feel my right foot and my arse is on fire! I pick up what is left of my flag and walk the 60 feet to the bike. It won't start Of course. Give it a minute and pin the throttle. it finally starts. Limp back into camp and take stock of the damage. Just the whip. nothing bent or broken or the bike. My pride and a VERY BIG Bruise and abrasion on my left thigh.

Like the description says T-5 or T-6's for my 53 inch TV I only want toomey's with silencers. If you don't have silencers then pipes with a little cash. Lightly used is best. no huge dings painted or boogered chrome is fine. I plan on ceramic coating them anyway. I would prefer some t-6's but t-5's would work. I recently upgraded to a 65 inch HD and want this out of my garage. PICK UP ONLY San Diego 92115

I got a drag ported top end(66mm) from a friend that upgraded to a cub for next to nothing. It came with blaster pistons but no bearings. Do i use blaster wrist pin bearings? My wife told me when i get her a LTR450 i can do anything i want to my bike. Looks like it is going to be a long rod 370 with 35mm pwk's and cpi or shearer in frame pipes. keeping hers stock so it will be reliable.

Ditto for me but i got a tow back from OLDS behind a sandrail. I was sandblasted when i got back to camp.

I'll run my 87.... heads up first race. no sandbagging. we going 660 feet? Not sure about a 300 foot race those early lt's have tons of low end torque. LOL have to rebuild both of them after that last trip to the dunes though. Blew both of the up. Seized the 85 and 89 psi compression on the 87 (barely runs now)

stones are silicon carbide.240 320 400 and 600 grit was going to use the oil i cut with on the mill not the mill to do the work.

so it won't go in the top and exit the top? they might actually have a real coolant flow that goes in the bottom and exit the head? if yamaha would have done that a majority of the overheating problems on the banshee wouldn't exist. as far as going 10mm vs 7mm 10mm might require welding or epoxy after clearancing. 7mm just requires some clearancing. no metal build up. that sounds a lot better. 68mm bore 61mm stroke sounds plenty fine to me. 70hp on gas shouldn't take too much porting should it?

I like it when a thread like this takes off. That was very educational. I am thinking i am going to buy a 7mm crank and some cubs for my hybrid. Provided i save enough.

I just picked up another set of cylinders with a light glaze to them. They have .0007 in taper. max clearance to the new pistons i have is .0042 in. I am using a corded 1/2 chuck drill with a spring hone. It has the 2 levels on the drill body and i have an angle plate set up to hold the cylinders. I also used WD-40 in an air mister style coolant set up to maintain oil on the stones. On this set up what would you recommend for lubricant? I was thinking the cutting oil i use in my mill would work.

my prefered term would be clearancing but it seems that most people on the board refer to it as trenching. I have a foredom deburr motor and a full set of rasps and burrs. So if i take this project on i will do it that way. I am not going to do any weld build up so 10mm is out. need it for 7mm?

Provided the carb is in good repair (doesn't leak air around the throttle shafts) I can usually make it run better with just a few minor adjusments. Provided the jetting, secondaries open when they should(holley 4160 and quadrajet), accelerator pump squirters and cam are correct. If they aren't i can tune those in too. 2 strokes are a completely different animal. different learning curve all together. As far as what is needed for trenching/clearancing. do you line bore the cases or lay it out and grind the clearance?

ok now i have a clear understanding that i should just save the money from drinking in one port and buy the crank. But i still need to trench the cases. Any info on that?

That is a totally cool skill to have though. I have the demon tweak with holley (4150 4160) and quadrajet carbs. Just need to learn the demon tweak for the banshee carbs, I am getting there. When i start this project i will be in the indian ocean or northern arabian gulf. I am going nowhere off the ship for 3 months at least so if it takes me a month to get everything "perfect" before I get a bead laid down that is fine by me. :biggrin:

Yeah i have a good bridgeport a full set of carbide boring bars and a decent boring head. adjusts in .0001 increments. I am confident in holding .0005 true position with my tooling and equipment

My time estimate was not counting making the jig to hold the web in place or the clamshells to keep from over pressing the pins too far through the webs. Provided i don't fubar the jig/fixture it should be a bore/chamfer/flip/chamfer operation. then press it all together and have a welder tig it for me. Probably cost me a couple of beers. I am just gald my DRO has mm/inch measurement on it. would hate to screw up the calculations.

other than verifying that the pins are the correct size for the rod bearings and grinding them if they are not, No i can't see anything else that needs to be done. Making a couple of clamshells to hold the center section and the rod areas to keep them from getting tweaked wouldn't be too much trouble. I am just kind of curious what would be too much clearance while pressing everything together. I mean hell $230 plus MAYBE 3 hours of labor (for the first one) and i get a 10mm stroker crank. worth the effort to me. Do a step by step how to thread?

I would slap them in a vice but it would be on a brideport with a DRO. And i would use a boring head or a reamer (if i have the right size). How much press fit? .001? .002? And the center line for the journal would be 32mm off the centerline of the crank. Tig or Mig weld it? (I am not going to weld it myself. It would look like a pidgeon shat on my crankshaft if I Tig'd it)

What all is involved in assembling a crank? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-CRA...sspagenameZWD1V I have a complete machine shop at my disposal and this looks interesting to me to try out. I wouldn't mind giving this a shot. Anyone here do this and will give me some instruction? Also how deep do you have to trench the cases for 10mm stroker? .200 inch where the rod swings with a .080-.125 inch clearance? Do you have the cases linebored or use a grinder/burrs and eye ball it? I have aerospace experience and holding true position of +-.0005 isn't an issue once I know what i have to do. thanks for any help i get. I am going to do this stuff while i am on deployment to IRAQ. Can't ride it but i can still play!

About the same but humid as hell. It is no wonder they are so pissed off and fight with each other. It is depressing to see all the great riding terrain and no tree huggers and my banshee will be at home! :verymad: :: :wallbash: :beer: do some riding for me while I am gone :beer:

Been looking at stroker cranks. the difference in price between 4mm and 7 mm is negligible. The 7mm makes more power. Is the extra cost in the crank and case work worth it?