Toybreaker

Bump for ya! If the tank was black or white i would be all over it!

I want the frame. I'll pay cash and pick it up today. PM sent

2003 se standard bore, play port, K&N pods, cool head, stock carbs, t-6's 320 mains 27.5 pilots 1.75 turns out Tuned for glamis

I got Jacked for over $350 via paypal and ebay. the jackass didn't have any money in their paypal account and then closed it. So i am with LOCO and NYUK Postal money order or cash FUCK PAYPAL.

22x11x8 8 cup gliders. Bigger diameter + less rolling resistance = higher top speed.

Ironclad back up Pay with a POSTAL MONEY ORDER They dick you. they have a FELONY. POSTAL FRAUD they give you your money or your shit. When dealing with anyone even remotely "shady" I mail them a postal money order. You can see if it has been cashed online so there is no "i haven't gotten it yet" bs. Hind sight is 20/20 learn from this and move on. my .02

If the good side is flat. and the new side is flat you don't have to have "matched" case sets. Go look at it. If it needs everything offer him $500 for it. Or less. Ask him what it will cost for you to drag it out of there. It will need plastics, tires, and possibly some love inside the case. Figure $300 minimum to get the motor running again, $250 for plastics, $65 to recover the seat, $200 for tires Flush the fuel tank clean the carb (or rebuild as needed.) $500 sounds fair to me. And if you have split the cases on a banshee the 250R is not hard. Just DO NOT TAKE THE CASSETTE(trans gears) APART. Take lots of digital pictures as you go It will be a walk in the park with a service manual.

My fattied 88 out ran my friends t-6 2003 other than pipes we had the same bolt ons. We swap bikes and my bike still won (not by as much though) Go with the Fatties! Mine are old and still look ok. Dinged dented but still chrome, no flaking.

Yes if you are not going to port it then T-6's will work great for you. There is a section on Planetsand.com for the UAE I am sure one of those guys can help with jetting over there. And yes you guys have some great dunes... i went on a sunset safari those guys that drive the landcruisers are freaking NUTS!

The torch method sounds a whole lot simpler than how I did it. Work smarter not harder. That there is a GREAT TIP! :beer:

Its all been said above. Go with the dune/play port. You will be very happy with it.

So are you going to post up finished pics? When i actually get somewhere on my "hybrid" i will post up some pics so that the Fundamentalist Banshee extremists can tell me my LT350R is sacreligous and all that. But i am willing to bet it will out handle, out jump, and power for power out accelerate a banshee.

Bills pipes are like the old DG's i think. mostly low-mid range pipes... smooth no hit to speak of. sound pretty good. Wife has some on her bike.

Drain the gas and feed your weedwacker. Refill with 40:1 then do a plug chop. I have close to your mods i run 280 main 27.5 pilot with a toomey needle with the clip in the middle. 300 should be a little fat with these pipes. When its really cold in the dunes 280 is fat on my bike.

.040 - .058 seems excessive. why so large? .035 is optimum for wedge style heads what is the difference for the banshee? It has a radius crown to the piston and a "hemi" type combustion chamber. Why the extra clearance? I am building my first stroker when i get home and i am interested in this thread for my 4mm motor. I was going to shoot for Zero deck height and a .035 quench (squish as you are calling it)

I did the play ports with a template for the intake exhaust and degree wheel for the transfers. I also polished the exhaust mirror smooth on the first set of cylinders(waste of time and effort so i am told) I just want to get it right or close with this set of cylinders. I would hate to have to buy another set. Trial and error is EXPENSIVE. thanks for any help.

I am almost done gathering all the parts for my 4mm engine. I have virgin port 64.25 jugs and a +4mm +5mm rod length crank that is trued and welded I have ported a couple friends Banshee's and they move pretty good but they were both stock stroke and just a "play port" How much different do I port with a 4mm crank? I will be using a degree wheel to lay it all out if that helps anyone with knowledge to help me out.... I will be using CPI small bore in frames, V-force 2 reeds, and 35mm pwk or 34 mm round slide Keihin carbs. I want a really aggressive dune port. not quite a drag port.

Wait until you go back to your "regualr oil mix" running that much oil leans out the mixture. more oil = less fuel then start tuning But as a crutch raise the needle until you finish your break in

For going fast My cr500 has yet to be beaten by anything except a KX500 trike.(that thing is worked!) Took the CR out to ocotillo wells and went ass over handlebars. powerline road in 5th isn't such a good idea. But i prefer quads for everything. Even wrecking!

Main reason i bushed them is it is harder than the aluminum i used so it won't wear into an egg shaped hole. Also OILITE weeps a small amount of oil when it is heated or exposed to pressure. makes it easy to get the bolts out and it looked good.

I have to replace my shiftershaft before i can ride. Since i plan on replacing my crankseals and oil seals at the same time I thought i might do this. The case will be split anyway. I have never liked how the banshee shifts. I have done the shifter star mod as well as the "packard" clutch mod. With those mods and the "SHIFT CAM" mod it should shift pretty smoothly

I have to replace my shiftershaft before i can ride. Since i plan on replacing my crankseals and oil seals at the same time I thought i might do this. The case will be split anyway. I have never liked how the banshee shifts. I have done the shifter star mod as well as the "packard" clutch mod. With those mods and the "SHIFT CAM" mod it should shift pretty smoothly

Control arms, Extended swing arm with the link made out of aluminum Cool head for a cr 500, kx500, Tecate 3 and 4 engine cases 1 piece cylinders with "proper" cooling, water pump outlet goes into bottom rear of cylinders instead of into back of cylinder head. Also make a block off plate for rear boss on cool heads and stock head for your cylinders Aluminum gas tank with a dual outlet for fuel. Aluminum frame with 250r geometry for a banshee engine. Lots of possibilities how long do you have to make it work? I was an aerospace cnc machinist before i went back in the Navy. The R&D jobs were the best. Listen to the guys doing the production when they have suggestions to make the run go smoother. Most of the time their suggestions will save time and materials/tooling! :biggrin: Good luck on your project.... show us some pictures of the cad and in progress of the run if they will let you.

the 87 250 has the same reed block as the LT500. It is a screamer. As far as LT performance 250 or 500 pm DRq on Planetsand. the man is the LT encyclopedia. Helped me out a lot!

If you have to choose between 86 of each take the honda. The 86 has a case reed design the SEVERELY limits the airflow potential It is a torquey low end motor, great for a trail bike but not a screamer by any means. The 85-86 suzuki also has a crappy swingarm design. But I am in the minority in thinking that the 87-91 LT's handle better than the R does. The suzuki's (87-92) can be built to perform and hold together but you have to stay on top of the maintenance. I know I have an 85 and 87. But, For a really good bike put a honda r engine in a suzuki chassis Like the founder of Alba did. I am going a little bit further by putting a banshee engine in an LT chassis.