Toybreaker

So I should replace the short studs with heat treated studs the right length, and 12 point arp nuts with hardened washers.

I keep seeing "stud extenders" listed with cub style cylinders. why do they do that instead of replacing the studs with the correct length ones?

Cub cyl with pistons shipped to 04005 please

Not only that the cool head actually increases cooling efficiency over the stock head. Win win. you can change compression with new domes, and it will cool better than the stock head.

good looking bikes. too bad they are so far from me. good luck with your sale.... Cross post into craigslist in az, nevada, and socal?

Last full build on my engine was a stock cylinder stock stroke 66mm long rod on gas with 35mm carbs. 74 hp it was a light switch, not fun to ride. took it to the drag strip a lot though..... when I windowed the left piston I sold those cylinders and went back to closer to stock port timing, much more fun to ride.

What little I have read so far those pipes look pretty good.... Definitely worth considering.

I lumped them all together, serval is the style I will go with. I used the cub name as a universal for the monoblock style cylinders

I have the modified shift star, and a Fast shift shaft with his easy spring already. Is there anything else you would recommend? this build isn't going to be used for drag racing. Trails and gravel pit riding.... thank you for the wisdom!

I am in a position that I can really build my bike. Up to this point I have always done stock cylinder builds. Current engine is stock stroke 64.25mm bore. V-force reeds, tors eliminated stock carbs, FMF pipes, Cool Head w 19cc domes. So if I upgrade to a cub monoblock cylinder do I need a cub specific coolhead? or can I use the one I already have? Or do I buy cub domes and cut my coolhead to match those domes? I know I am going to need new intakes, carbs, and pipes. While I am in there I am going to replace the clutch and put in the modified shift drum I have had for 10 years too.

Best builder is a can of worms.... look at the site sponsors call and talk to them with a concrete goal in mind. stroke, cylinders, alky or gas, pipes etc etc etc. timeline is a big one. the best builders have a good wait time for a build keep that in mind.

Really? I took the parts out of their inventory and sold it? I took raw material, and cap screws and made it into a part that people could not get because the suppliers weren't getting those parts to the local parts suppliers. Lots of people weren't getting tickets at glamis because of my "theft". They are not made or supplied by only 1 company, so i guess all the other companies that made those parts stole them too. But by all means stay on your high horse and talk shit.

No I admit to being a capitalist. Seeing an opportunity to use hard work to make some money. You know, the old American way? Snowflake

If there isn't a patent on it then they can do whatever they like. I have pirated some designs and sold em for a profit..... they weren't patented so I was legal. also the copies were made in the good ole USofA

My .02 on this is if you are just cheap... save some money and send em to an expert. If you like this shit like a bunch of us do.... read some, read some more, then read some more, then go on to YouTube. Mark and measure them several times before you fire up your grinder. I have a foredom I use http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131201826214?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D166220085738_324272%2526itemid%253D131201826214%2526targetid%253D297009172954%2526rpc%253D0.25%2526rpc_upld_id%253D98082%2526device%253Dt%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F131201826214%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9002513%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D718828727%2526adgroupid%253D36775856639%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-297009172954%2526gclid%253DCJLdnZy8pNECFdSLswodBuwCxQ%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1147974313362&ul_noapp=true Lots of different tooling involved. Take into account the other machine tools in my hobby shop and I have more than the cost of a high end stock motor build in just tooling. Not the machines..... You like to tinker? Go for it......

Send off for rebuild or replace it? Stock stroke Engine will be a "trail" build so nothing extreme. Welded and trued is about it. Not even hot rods....

Diesel powered 4bt with an allison trans and titan transfer case and it would be perfect!

I work on Submarines in guam. I have to tell them I can't do a job to get tooling replaced.

Sure will. I'll post video on youtube..... that thing should be a beast! Hoping for 90 HP with a 421 (top end depends on the deal I get.

Not yet I have a spare engine siting in my shed at home. i am going to build that as a retirement from the navy present to myself. Run it at NJ motorsports park.

I would be happy to try and build a whole crank out of Ti but I need to figure out a way to lock the rod pins in place without welding them. I could broach the the crank pin, mill the slot and use a tool steel key. And also buy some bigger Ti round stock the stator and clutch ends would suck thanks to the metric threads but the rest of it would be pretty simple machining. The personal stuff I do for myself is ALWAYS on my time and materials I buy myself. This isn't Congress where anything goes. If I use Gov't material, or do something for me or a buddy on Navy time my ass is in a sling. However if the Chain of command is on board I can get machining done during working hours if it will further the level of knowledge or continue someones qualifications. These connecting rods could be one of those times. I make parts for ships, aircraft, and submarines with tolerances as tight as + or - .00025 and as large as + or minus .03175 inch. Take into account that the average human hair is .003 inch thick.

Yeah, I buy the materials I use for personal shit. And I would buy a rod to dimension it but do you know what shipping to Guam costs? I bought a 6 ft piece of 1.25 inch stainless for $145 for a Ford 4.6 part (actually 56 of em) shipping was $450. $595 for that shit. Cost more than that to buy it on island. I made a little over $2000 gross on them parts...$40 shipped $5 shipping (USPS Flat rate work here too) $330 for shipping $595 for material $120 for cutting tools/tooling (This cost will last several production runs) $1045 production cost. $1195 net profit... Not bad for about 45 hours of work. Next run will be much cheaper. MSC Direct ships for free to military adresses. So it will be closer to $1800 net profit For the previous poster Ti would work great. there are super light rotating assemblies in all kinds of engines... If you lug it there isn't enough rotational enertia to keep it running but if you keep it off idle all the time it "should" be fine. and that is just bench racing.......

If Ti wasn't such a bitch to weld correctly a whole crank out of titanium would be awesome.... Expensive as hell but imagine how quick it would rev....

Fat fingers. guess I should have read it closely before I hit post. yeah 115mm