Toybreaker

not sure where that is, I was stationed in Charleston. There is a big OHV park just off interstate 77. lots of trails, sand/dirt drags oval track... lots of state/county run riding areas... look around, ask some of the people you are stationed with too. The civilians working at the base can help you out too..... that is who turned me on to most of the places I rode in SC....

Change the plugs, check the spark while kicking, Blue=good Follow the electrical protocol for right now. when things heat up they expand...... when it is warm it is harder to start. I am thinking electrical, check the stator pickup gap and go from there.

I am not a welder, but i am pretty good at sticking metal together with a welding machine.

Those instructions were not for a pro welder. for the garage mecha nik with a tig welding setup that thinks he can weld

if it has leaked through the crack you are pretty much fucked. Aluminum is very porous. the gear lube will have penetrated into the pores of the crack and will contaminate any attempts at welding it. 2 options for weld repair, bake it an oven for a LONG time to get the oil out or stop drill the ends of the crack and excavate out past the contaminated metal and fill the gap. Or clean it Psycho OCD clean then soak the effected area in a strong solvent for a few hours and attempt another epoxy metal repair (JB Weld type stuff, I use ENECON products) if it is prepped properly these types of repairs work well. We use this stuff to fix sealing surfaces on all kinds of high pressure equipment.

I don't even have a running bike to video an epic fail for you right now

I zip tied it to the frame under the tank.... just leave the fucking thing in and on....

how bent is the old one?

Thick walled thread insert repair, ez-lok is my brand of choice. https://www.ezlok.com

24 valve head on a 6bt block.... not a whole lot needed to do it..... best of both worlds

need to get the "like" ability back.... so many posts that make me laugh. I can not show appreciation for..... 2 liter bottle ..... sideways

here is to getting a good stator and riding, instead of wrenching....

you answered my next comment, did you verify the "new" parts are good? check the pickup gap while you are there...

if you want to throw parts at it replace the CDI, then the coil, then the stator, then the wiring harness.... when it still doesn't run come back and follow directions....

the posted signs and the fact that the fuckhead was trespassing should have been enough. I would have just shot the fucker...... he got off lucky. castle doctrine is awesome

When I was a kid it wasn't so anti gun in NJ... then I join the military and poof! 20 years later its as bad as california! WTF happened?

If the fasteners are made properly they go in without a hitch..... taking them out after the galvanic corrosion has started is when the anti seize would be helpful.

Some lazy people just adjust the cable on the top of the carb to sync and set the idle.

Ported? Carbs? Pipes? all effect powerband

Bump, this is good info... went looking for fuel screw size.... Yamaha 98517-04016-00 SCREW,PAN HEAD 4mm Diameter 16mm long.... no pitch though... only 2 choices.... Good shit Juan thanks for that!

Screw 90149-08256-00 Washer, Lock 90215-08174-00 Nut 90170-08193-00 I think those are correct....

go to fastenal, msc, hell home depot, buy some flat bar, file and a hack saw. cut to what you want, drill two holes. bolt them up.

take 30-45 min on a prototrak mill. Too bad I don't have one anymore

round, with tread, that fit your rims, and most importantly have to hold air....