Stinger

How do you define work well?

They are crankcase vent hoses, not coolant hoses. They vent from under the water pump cover, between the cylinders, and at the back of the engine near the rear shock. The "T" ends up on the front right side of the engine.

Jeff I called and left a message about 4:35 today. I was hoping to get hold of you because I need a few clutch cover gaskets ASAP as well.

And how do you adjust the setup with a pancake bearing since the bearing allows it to spin with the threaded section, unlike the stock setup that has a nut that you hold to keep it from spinning.

I got a rattle under the clutch cover late last year so I parked the Banshee until I had time to mess with it. The rattle seemed to only be at idle in neutral but maybe it's just because the Shee is too loud otherwise. If I remember right, pulling in the clutch lever made it quit. So it's getting warm and time to fix it. Pulled the cover off, at first didn't see anything that looked odd. Then I noticed the nut in the center of the clutch wasn't touching the clutch plate (the front plate that the springs are on). There is nearly a 1/4" gap. In the picture I attached (an old pic of when I installed the clutch a few years ago) you can see on the left the pancake bearing and the nut and threaded section on the end. See how the threads are sticking through the nut a 1/4" or so? Well when I pulled the cover the nut is hanging off the end by about 1.5 threads. The weird thing is the nut is tight on the threads and won't freely spin. So my assumption is I need to loosen the nut, thread it on farther so it touches the clutch plate again, etc. My questions are, am I correct in my assumption? What keeps the nut from backing off? Do you preload the nut against the plate any? How do you know how far to thread it on? Thanks.

For those of you that say they are too stiff and the compression/rebound adjustments don't make them soft enough, loosen the spring nuts and run them all the way to the top (remove the preload). This will make them softer than stock if the compression is also set all the way soft. I'm only 140lbs and I can get them softer than stock or harder than stock using the three adjustments (preload, compression, rebound).

Thansk guys. I ended up getting some 21x12x8 8 paddle haulers from ebay and douglas wheels from RMATV. Everything was brand new for $177 shipped to my door :biggrin:

Mods are in my sig...plan to add CPI's and a bit more compression to the list. Stock gearing or maybe go 1 tooth less on the front sprocket by next spring.

Since you said 10 paddles would be too much, I assume you miss-typed in the 21x10x8 10 paddle in the next sentence. Did you meant 9 paddle or 8 paddle? Thanks.

OK, I am having a HELL of a time finding any USED 22" tall 10" rim haulers with 8 or 9 paddles...so I'm thinking of buying a different size. I'm looking at: 20-10-10 8 paddle extreme 20-10-10 9 paddle hauler 20-10-10 10 paddle hauler Which of these would best go with a 145lb rider, stock swinger, and 55-65hp engine with stock gearing? OR I'm considering going to an 8" wheel setup. My only problem with this is I probably do 70% duning and 30% dragging so it seems the 10" is more suited for my purposes. If I end up with 8" rims, should I go for a shorter paddle to help them dune better like 20's or so? 20x11x8 or 21x11x8 for example?

I bought a Tony Hawk helmet cam for 50 bux...works better than I expected. It's about the same quality as a webcam but it's plenty good for posting on the web. Only downfall is it seems to have an auto-shutoff after 5 minutes...then you have to hit record again.

I'm running them on my +2 Lonestar arms as well...no issues...

I'm sorry he got hit and got all fucked up but there is no way in hell he was hit from behind...nothing on the rear of the quad is messed up (not even the grab bar is bent). He turned into oncoming traffic.

Still lookin'...