BadDad

Just where the (.007) hump is. The truing mark after kissing off with the tool tip is right beside the 2 drilled divets. Here are the specs I've disected from the searches here at "BHQ": 4.840" O.D. And don't cut the timing tabs off. Turn the center hub up to the rivits, with a resulting O.D. of 2.800". I can't claim to be an accomplished machinist but it's my own lathe in my basement (it's like a 12x52 or close) that I'm comfortable with. I only use carbide tips (ceramic if i have to). This was one of those things I didn't know enough about to feel comfortable and just do. Maybe I can help here. Get yoursely a couple dozen of those wide wide gum-bands. Now wrap them anywhere that is not your cutting surface. It will reduce the harminics sometimes to a point where it is un-noticible. I've used the same techince on other drums with good success. What the hell, it looks good on paper. Thanks

wow thanks for answering so quick. It's a stocker and the arbor fits very well. I know it's centered because the inside hub runs true. It's just I couldn't beleive the shell could be deformed that much from factory. The timing tabs are not out of line either. Thanks What about balance ??

HHmmm... I guess I'll put this here. Can the runout of the outer stamped shell be .007" out of round!! ? I'm using a homemade arbor. Inside steel hub (next to rivites) runs true(.000) by means of starret dial indicator. Also should these be re-balanced after machining. And if so how ? Thanks