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Everything posted by dajogejr
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There are two tabs on the flywheel, one for each cylinder (by they way, you get a spark on both plugs at the same time, in the cylinder that is not near Top Dead Center (TDC) it's just a wasted spark) Set that .015 to .020. Spin the motor 180 degrees, check the other tab. There is a small fuel line between the carbs if they are stock. You'll notice stockers only have one choke knob, this fuel enrichment circuit feeds between the two carbs and this tube is needed. If you bunt the ignition wire, I'd try a new harness and grounds, to the frame and motor. Also, did you remove all of the TORS crap properly, both unplugged components and crossing the wires for the throttle/parking brake? Did you replace the stator with a Ricky Stator piece of garbage? That could be the problem as well.
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Billet Basket with Straight- Cut Gears
dajogejr replied to VegasJeff's topic in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
Good luck brotha!! If I didn't have to get a crank, pistons, nikasil and cylinder repair done, I'd jump on these. 4 years on that same basket, LOTS of abuse and it still looks great!!!! -
NYUK and Minkia38 are your best bets for that. The Sanford and Son of the banshee parts world.
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Billet Basket with Straight- Cut Gears
dajogejr replied to VegasJeff's topic in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
Who's gears are those? Helluva good deal...125 to 150 off new retail shipped. -
only reason I'd get aftermarket intakes is if you went with bigger carbs and they no longer fit the stock intakes. No reason at all other than that.
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And don't forget how much the track can change from 80 degrees out to 65 degrees out, moisture in the air, and then the track consistency...too much water, not enough, wet sand, dry clay, etc....
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List of mods look good. Do NOT get the ProDesign Timing Plate. Get the Chariot. It's cheaper and billet, and it's the one I use. I would run stock springs in that bike. Without porting, stock springs with a FAST clutch will hold that motor fine. Since you're going to be in the trails...you'll be on the clutch alot. Unless you have popeye arms... While you're at it, pickup a new clutch cable and EZ Pull clutch perch. You'll think you died and went to heaven...promise.
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whats the single best mod for hp and performance gains
dajogejr replied to Slickgib's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I agree with these two gentlemen... For bolt on mods, pipes hands down. Primarily because the stock pipes are that horrid for performance... But Porting will net WAY more. You have to tear the motor down for that. Pipes will NEVER give you double the HP. Porting in the right hands can and will. -
Gearing, tire choice (paddle tire type, paddles, air pressure, rollout, straight or staggered scoops) and that's just for sand. Wheelie bar height, length, etc. Swingarm height, angle. That's just a few.
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congrats...now lets talk apples to apples. he's talking about building a drag bike, not sure where your TT/hare scramble engine and building setup applies here. Certainly if he were looking into that arena you're qualified. But I don't go tell the president of my bank how to run his branch simply because I go there to deposit my check.... I can assure you, drag racing is alot, ALOT more than a HP game. Lesser motors beat bigger ones all the time due to better setup and understanding how to get down the track fastest. While we don't turn left or right until after the game is over, there is a ton more to drag racing than just a HP number. If that were the case, dyno queens everywhere would rule the sport.
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What size piston do you need? I'm pretty sure it's not a 100mm piston...lol. Keep in mind, banshee pistons and blaster pistons have a different dome angle, so your head/domes will have to suit.
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The only thing I see in Brock's favor is he's 280 or so in the ring at fight time. If he lays on top of Fedor, he might have a hard time getting him off of him...being smothered. That being said, stand up...on the feet...Fedor would hit him 10 times before Brock knew the fight was going on.
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I agree. Fedor/Couture would have been the biggest event, but after Lesnar beat the old man, he's earned the chance to fight Fedor. I just don't ever see it happening with EF's management team. Dana was willing to give just about anything...but they wanted even more than that. I got a feeling if Fedor takes one or two losses, he'll be at the UFC...
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Bob... If Brock and Fedor ever do fight (and they're not grandpas in wheelchairs) i say we have a friendly, gentleman's bet? Sound good?
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Please tell me where you race and collect money all day long with 81.45938274095 HP. I think i can make a new career out of this.
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100% means 1 to 1, doesn't it? So you used 140%. Maybe I'm just off my rocker, it is Friday, been a long week... Stoich on Alky is twice what gas is...tuned properly. You can't take how much riding you've done into consideration here. You have to judge this by how much your engine needs, fuel to air mixture wise to run properly, not how much you used bombing around for a ride.
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Here's the big difference, E85 is easier to find than Methanol. I buy a 55 gallon drum of methanol. You can find them around here for 130 to 200 bucks for the drum. Figure another 25 or so for a drum pump. Then you just fill what you need, etc. You won't get the power output of methanol but slightly more than race fuel, you will still have to purge, you will burn through more E85 than race fuel but not as much as Methanol. That being said...if you lived somewhere you couldn't find Methanol or it was ridiculously expensive...I would look to E85... But to be honest, I don't think the 2-3% increase you'll see in E85 is worth the hassle. You're only going to get 7 to 9% on Methanol over race fuel in performance increase....
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Maybe my math is fuzzy...but don't you mean 200% more fuel? (100% would be the same, you're using twice as much methanol as gas...so...wouldn't that be 200%?) If you are handy and have the tools/patience...you can buy power jets for 100 or so a pair, then you just need a drill index set, some jb weld and some time to do your own carbs.
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Momma must've whipped his ass good.
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In the hands of the very best builders, you could make stockers run that good. But the time and money you had invested in the stockers, the cub would be quicker and more efficient. I can tell you any builder worth their salt is not going to get stock cylinders competitive with a cub for a few hundo...it's going to be expensive. Once you big bore sleeve the stockers (and to go 68mm, you will need to) you cut into the transfer area. That's why you see the bulges on the sides of the cubs, to allow the bigger bore and keep a reasonable transfer area/volume.
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badassbanshee and I race at the same tracks and against each other quite often. Friendly rivalry at the track... He's got a 4 mil drag ported by FAST, I have a 10 mil drag ported by HJR. He and I are both 250 lbs plus. He will normally run within a tenth of my time at the strip. His 4 mil is very impressive and rock solid. But he's rode my bike a few times, I think he'd agree, it's easier to go fast on and pulls a big guy a little better than a 4 mil. Figure a 10 mil crank is going to set you back an extra 300 to 500 over a new 4 mil, and case work is 75 to 150 bucks to trench the cases. I think the 4 and 10 mil cub are the best bang for the buck for a drag bike. I think porting by a reputable builder is well worth it, I gained a solid tenth on my bike just from changing porting alone. I ran mine for 2 straight years with only the casting flaws cleaned up by me. This last season I had it ported and it pulled harder up top and averaged a tenth faster in 300 foot at the same tracks I've ridden the previous two years. Porting a cub vs. a set of stockers is no comparison, the cubs are that good out of the box. But...you can still squeeze extra power out of them. It's just not on the same scale as stockers vs. drag ported stockers. What's nice about the cub is you can buy a cylinder (like other aftermarket cylinders as well) that is built/casted for your crank and rod combo instead of a spacer plate, cut domes, etc.
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cheetah cub 4mm engine, pipes & carbs
dajogejr replied to ryansedy's topic in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
I"m not interested in it...I was just asking for others that might be looking... -
If you have the extra loot, I'd go 10 as well. The crank and case work set you back a little more, all the rest will be the same. That longer stroke really gets you moving down the track easier....and it's easier to go fast on. Don't get me wrong, 4 mils run like hell and dollar for dollar they're a great motor, but the 10 mil has a little more legs upstairs.
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N2Deep, exactly what do you need? New boots for the intakes to fit your carbs? All new intakes? I'll keep my eye out for you...and Sheefreak offered to help out as well.
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You're too stupid to see the pattern we all do. You were banned under your old name, you didn't make shit right with sheefreak, you lied, cheated and stole from him. Period. It's the same story, different name. If you were so set on doing good, why didn't you email or PM the mod staff to try and clear your name? You didn't. You created a second screen name...and got busted again. Nice work.