dajogejr

I would say judging by the pretty motor in your pic or the drag bike in your profile you have SOMETHING to sell to get Dave a 4 mil crank. The rest is bull shit, but at least you can man up and give him that. Too bad if that puts you out of racing for a month or two so you can make a deal right. If I owed someone money or made a bad deal, I will come out of pocket or sell items I have to make it right...no excuses.

That's exactly right. Blaster pistons (Wiseco 573M6800) have a different dome angle than the WSM. So make sure you have a set of domes cut for the WSM piston dome, NOT the wiseco dome. I know Nate McCoy loves these...and my buddy fouledout had a set in his McCoy 4 mil cub and it ran forever and ripped...

Best advice one could give...right here.

Some of the fastest bikes in the country use stock CDI and Coil.

There may be a perfectly good reason to run a 9 on gas...some people setup and jet their motor that way.

Todd...maybe you better stick to the 50's and 90's bud... LOL. J/K. I will say my bike has better bottom and mid (yeah, I know it's a drag bike) with the Lectrons than the PWKs it had. The bike felt slower because the top end hit wasn't as harsh, it was just smooth....but the time slips don't lie. Todd, on the needles go 1/4 to half turn at a time inwards (clockwise if you're looking at the slide/needle from the bottom) until it cleans out. You should be able to get your needle 90% close without even moving forward a foot. 1/4 to half turn is a LOT. Just make sure you have a set of digital calipers on stand by to make sure the needles are the same length. I try to get mine withing .03 mm of each other...

10 bucks is highway robbery. They may or may have note been used. Hard to say.... http://www.jetsrus.com/main_page.htm Carbparts.com Sudco.com or better yet, his up a site sponsor.

Here's my thing. When I see "boyz" I think of a 12 year old kid texting his friends w wordz lik dis n shit. The whole short hand text language is beyond me. I'm sure this Kenny guy is a helluva nice guy. But having that "boyz" moniker is going to cause many to not take his shop seriously. Just my .02.

He's got the kit on flebay for 1500. Not a stellar deal, just average. The cubs are built as a top end screamer motor. If someone wanted something a little more tame, I'd go with the Vito's big bore cylinders if you wanted to bolt on. I'd bet a few builders on this site could get stockers to run just as hard as these cylinders though...you're not getting as much power from the bore as you would a longer stroked crank.

This page is great. 55 degree temp drop by bolting on a NOSS head (no offense to Mr. Noss) And they have "specially modified FZR1000 fibers" to fit a banshee. Someone needs to tell them they fit out of the box. http://www.bansheeboyz.com/Product_s_1.php

Surprised you had to go that fat on the needle. Did you start with your main jet and then work your way back into the needle? The absolute best and most accurate way is to use a sync tool like Jeff @ FAST Sells. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59 You can get them pretty close by eye. If it starts easy, idles smoothly, doesn't heat up on one side more than the other or smoke out one side more than the other..you're probably pretty darn close.

They call that a mod? Maybe instead of streamlining fuel into the cylinder that eats it? LOL. Ask them where they've run, what races and against whom? I think those guys are in Florida, and anyone can build a big motor and beat a little motor in the oh so secret world of street racing. I've seen them on ebay. If they were worth their salt they'd be on forums and you'd have heard of them by now. I've never seen or heard of their work on any of the forums I'm on. Look, you can take a dremel, guess and get lucky and make an extra 20HP over stock. That doesn't mean you can repeat it and sure doesn't make you a builder.

You will go faster due to a lighter wallet. On smaller motors, it's just not needed...and the price isn't justified. I replace my inner and outer hub every two years. Not because they're worn, because for 50 bucks or so, it's just piece of mind. Stock baskets groove very, very easily. I've had excellent luck with my inexpensive Magnum basket from FAST. Once you start getting into bigger motors then straight cuts, 8 plate or larger clutch setups, etc. come into play.

Pez Dispenser maybe... I have a salt and pepper shaker that might need repair. I will pay you anything you want, I hear you're "overqualified.."

Factory manual huh? So, do you walk around the bike before each ride, torque everything in the book like it says after so many hours, replace the top end when it says to? You're just a paper mechanic. Which means you can read something and take a test and get a piece of paper that says you know something. I'd rather be a real mechanic. And there's only one way you get to be that. Experience. Clearly...by half the shit I read by you, all you are is paper.... I read so much stupid shit posted by you, I get confused what you are trying to say and if you actually thought about what you said or just blurt shit out of your mouth, much like diarrhea. Go back to work Paper Tech...somewhere there's an online manual and if you read it enough times, you will know everything. Or think you do anyways...

Please keep giving people precious advice like you do. It only makes me look better. Here's a good one... like in the shout box last night. Did you not say you have to have a crank gear and basket gear in a matched set? Yeah...that's a good one. Just one of your many great tid bits of advice. How am I trying to confuse anyone here? How am I trying to redirect anything? I stated what I did and how...the fact you read into something isn't my fault, is it? Exactly....

Anyone that knows anything about these bikes could have it hotwired in less than a minute, literally. All I do is remove any key or run switch and hook it up to a tether... Simple.

bansheestang hit the nail on the head. I run 20cc domes in my 10 mil cub with an HJR drag port, mid to high .050's on the squish and I still get 185 Cranking PSI on a good quality Snap On gauge.

Stock pilots I'm assuming? What have you done to your air screws? I know you said half throttle there's a bog...but all the circuits bleed into each other.

No shit dick tracy. I didn't say the overflow was a problem, I said I switched float bowls and learned the hard way...meaning the choke doesn't work. Fouledout just shares my dear opinion that most of the shit you post is BS, plain and simple.

Nope...you remember the number or search for a displacement calculator online... A stock banshee stroke is 54mm (yeah, another number to remember ) So add the 18 to 54.

Yep... I'm at 120 give or take...and I still don't have them. Would like to...but, need a lot more parts for next year...so, one day. Unless Loco wants to send me a Christmas Gift, in that case...I accept.

Polk....I would agree with you but he specifically said this. If the leakdown test was done properly with the right equipment, that eliminates that...

The reason I am 100% certain my 96 had only one is because I accidentally switched bowls on them and learned the hard way. It has overflows out each side for a reason as well.

Yes sir...that works too! If you multiply .0007854 by 4, you get the same number as an engineering constant (.0031416) 6 of one half dozen of the other!