dajogejr

-4 could do it. Still sounds a bit rich, though. I'd still check your plugs. Just think, if you're too rich in the main, it could be faster and pull better yet. I don't believe in the "Stage XX jet Kits" The Toomey jet kit I bought came with 270 and 280 mains. Mine runs awsome and the plugs look great with 330 mains, if that's any comparison for you. I only bought the kit for the needles... Give Jim @ Passion Racing a call. He has Shearer pipes and silencers in CHROME for 450 new. That's a helluva deal. Toomey T5, CPI, Shearer and rockets are all great pipes...

No...it is not automatic. Only automatic is fuel injection. I'm sure there's a knob to turn or screw to turn to adjust it. Still way easier than draining and removing the bowls...though...

Yep...where the case split line is. Clean her off good...and you can see where the top and bottom half meet. I called, since I was too stupid to read the piece of paper very carefully...I skimmed that part. I also used Whiteout on my split line for easier reference.

OOH...now I got some good ideas for mine...

Eric Gorr does very good work, as does Jeff @ F.A.S.T. Racing. DO a search on these boards for more ideas and opinions. Spending a 100 or so on shipping is nothing for your satisfaction and a job well done!! I can say CT did great work back in the day on the 250R. Mark Earhardt was their flagship rider for a long time...and he flat out flew. Then again, Mark had enough talent, he could've won races on a radio flyer wagon on holeshots...

What do you guys mean? I couldn't pull a wheelie before I put my boost bottle on, now I can wheelie in 6th going downhill... Seriously...don't waste your time and/or money. They look cool...that's about it. I got tired of tyring to run my cables around it, etc. I have one, used once, you can have fore 10 bucks shipped. PM me if you're still interested after reading this thread. Save your money for a RS timing plate, as said.

If you trail ride your shee...this mod is almost an absolute must. I had a bit of a hard time keeping my shee on the pipe in TIGHT trails before. With the +4 and Boonman flywheel, it's night and day difference. I've impressed quite a few of my 450R buddies with how easier it is to ride...

Both. Not really. If you combine higher compression along with timing, then...yes. +4 alone will not cause you to need anything other than premium gas. If you start going above +4 and/or much higher compression (say 20cc domes or smaller at sea level, ) then you're gonna start needing more octane. Compression has more to do with the need for race gas than timing does.

I think you answerd your own question. For the snows, leave the 14 on. For more...go 15. Personally...I'm going to try 15 up front soon. I was going to wait till I got a fresh top end and porting...but, mine rips through 1st so quick, I think I can pull it.

Pick up a copy of ATV Action, or dirtwheels, etc., Look in the back section. Honestly...there's probably a dozen places in SoCal that do work for shees. With year round riding, Glamis sand dunes, etc., out there in your neck of the woods, I'm sure you can find plenty of good, reputable engine builders. Ask to talk to them, stop by...talk to a few of their customers....

Exactly what I was thinking... Even if he removed the air box with stock pipes, it should be in the 230 to 240 range. Bogging prolly cause it's way too rich. Take a look at those plugs...slim. I think the flywheel and +4 timing are after pipes. Any shee rider will tell you, opening up the airbox and pipes should be the very first mod. Stock pipes CHOKE that motor....

Yeah...I'm at stock still, 14/41. Guy I rode with yesterday told me to go 13 on the front... I'm like...dude, with the +4 and lightened flywheel...I already RIP through first gear...as soon as I let out the clutch I'm grabbing 2nd....why would I want to shorten 1st even more?

Kinda what I figured. Start lean on the main, then let the dial richen it up. Thanks...much!! Good info to know!

Yeah...I read that about the carbs feeding valves... He ran airbox lid on all day. it ran pretty good. But, you can tell it is still not perfect...closer than it was, though. Told him to get authentic Kehin jets so the numbers match.

Dunno...Might want to call a machine shop or hit the local hardware store. I bought the kit to ease my worries

It sprays additional fuel into the venturi to compensate for a lean main jet. It gets this fuel from the bowl. However, how it "Leans" it out...I don't know....might have to ask a fellow dial a jet user...

I've got similar to you...and I'm not going to go 15 up front until I get VForce Reeds and porting... Might want to try a 14 out...I don't think the oil had anything to do with it. You can probably go 14-40 safe.

Depends...I forgot about your other post. What mods do you have again?

Looks like they're trying to copy dial-a-jet's system. If it sounds too good/too cheap to be true, it usually is. http://www.thunderproducts.com/dial_a_jet.htm

Those trailtechs are nice...but a little pricey. I'd head down to your local automotive store and take a look at some flood/fog lights. Bar mount or chassis mount are a matter of your preference. Do you slide corners alot in the dark, if so...bar mount 'em. if not...chassis mount 'em.

Glad to hear it's fixed...figured it had to be something simple. Odd about the gear oil though...I've always used 80W Gearsaver in my two stroke's tranny's...never a problem.

Must not have looked very hard...LRD's been around forever. http://www.lrdperformance.com/ I'm sure it's ported by them, not sure if the numbers mean anything in reference to what they did. Dual pistion calipers or dual calipers? I'd like to see that, either way...!

Kinda hard to tell an old timer the correct way...and to tell dad to foot the bill... I can rembmer the jaw type in the old days and especially for cars. Today is another day... I wouldn't even chance it If I were you. PM boonman. He can probably spin it up on a lathe and see if it's out of whack or not. I doubt the human eye alone could see a slight warp...but your shee will feel it at 9000 to 10000 RPMS...

Buy the kit. Motion pro, Toomey and Vitos all sell them. It comes with two brass bullet nosed screws, the correct drill bit AND tap. You're NOT changing any screws. You're simply finishing out a hold that needs to be all the way clear, on the outside of each carb. As said, it's an hour or so project start to finish. Here is Toomey's link to instructions, but...no pics. http://www.toomey.com/html/ik_install.htm Or...check here. About 1/4 way down, you can see the idle kit for a shee. It's 24.95. Comes with all you need. http://www.vitosperformance.net/BANSHEE.HTM