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Sorry...it might just be me...but if I'm riding up a slippery hill...I want tractable power, not wheel spin. That's a recipe for disaster.... With the right tire/suspension combo and clutch use...you can cut down on wheel spin quite considerably. Remember...he's getting smoke by the uncle on a four stroke...spinning tires around turns isn't going to help that. Sure, it is fun as all hell... If you're spinning, you're not going forward... I'd take a good four stroke if ALL I did was ride tight, twisty trails. Hell, I'd probably go 4X4 Cadillac style. but, for open, fast trails and drag....I'll keep my shee, thank you very much!! It can be made into a "Better" trail machine...just like it can be made into a drag bike, MX'er, Flat track...etc. Like anything else, how deep are them thar pockets.

Don't stop your quest at a pipe alone. Ricky Stator Timing plate is 35 bucks, and a lightened flywheel is another 60 or so. Those two mods took my T5s from good to great pipes, and made it more rideable than anything else. With stock gearing on mine...I can lug it in trails or let 'er scream on a wide open road/drag area....

650 is a good deal for that work. Lightened flywheel is 60ish. Head is about 240 from NOSS, and I'd get his...he sponsors HQ. If not...milled is around 40. Don't go 18cc domes unless you want to run race gas. Trued and welded crank is around 50. I think boring the stock carbs is around 80...not sure. A timing plate is 35 DON'T let him put a degree key in. Why take the chance of sheering a key...when the plate is dirt cheap. So...after all that...only a couple bills for labor is pretty good. Shops charge from 60 upwards to 100 per hour for labor. But...I strongly agree....that's too much for porting. Jeff @ FAST Racing, Eric Gorr and Jim @ Passion Racing are good ones, to name a few. That said, they're not going to take the motor, etc., out of your banshee....you're on your own for that...

The bike itself is already built/fast enough to beat that 400. You're simply using a suspenson design/chassis design that originated in 87 (or 89...really, minus the J Arm).... Think about how good shocks and forks were on an 87 RM, YZ, KX or CR....then, take a look at a new(er) one. If the shee is paid for...he loves the motor, and doesn't mind spending a few thousand dollars to revamp the whole suspension system...then, it's a good idea. If not...a piped 450R or YFZ should hand it to that 400. Keep in mind...is it the rider or the quad? Drag race...the shee should smoke it. There is no argument that a newer, more updated chassis stock vs. stock is going to beat a shee in tight trails... A good rider can only make up for so much... You don't need a 2 into 1 carb setup...either. Unless the port job is the worst in mankind...just get an adjustable timing plate and a lightened flywheel. Set the plate at +4... That will give it the easy power for the trails...

Not neccessarily...I'd bet the previous owner changed the oil...or at least could have. Do yourself a favor...Call Jeff @ FAST and order his kit. When you get it...and have yours apart, call him again. he can tell you what to look for and see what's in adjustment, what's not...what's worn, etc. Call him quick...he's leaving for a trip pretty soon!!

Yeah, just for giggles, I put my stock pilot back in, and turned in my screws about .5 to 1.0 out. Just wasn't the same. Going back to 27.5 and 2.5 turns out....

Slowed me down...to be honest. I told Ray I might try them again after I get a fresh top end and porting done. He's one cool ass dude...nice as can be. Also...those Rockets look killer. But, there are three negatives on them I did not get used to...although I did only ride with them for one day. 1. Plug access...difficult. 2. BIG...kept hitting my legs. Felt like I left me kickstarter out, on BOTH sides 3. Fuel...forget about turning your gas off, unless you have a screwdriver or pliers. 1 and 3 didn't bother me as much...2 really bothered me. I move my fat ass around alot...and I felt cramped... However...if all I did was drag, these would probably be my choice. Jeff said Shearer or CPI might be a better pipe to take full advantage of his porting. I MIGHT try the Shearers...Jim has them pretty cheap. I'll see how my T5s work first, they're such a great all around pipe, I'd hate to 86 'em.....

Thanks....Loco. goes to show you...you get what you pay for...

Yeah...but, tell you what...Loco. From what I've read, they aren't as sensitive to temp changes, and...as you can attest, are much easier to tune once dialed in... Living in MI...you never know. It was 70s here one week, and literally we got 3 to 4 incheds of snow the next. Literally.... It'll be nice to just twist the needle a bit for the ice racing. Also...Loco, from what I've read, a conventional bigger carb will cause you to lose on bottom to gain on top. The way these Lectrons are designed, you don't loose nearly as much off the bottom and still kill 'em on top... What do you think?

Geez... 1:15 in the AM... Jeff, to to bed...man, you got a trip coming up...

Try adjusting your air screws. Start from .5 turns out...and work till 2.0 or 2.5 turns out. If it runs better with them almost all the way in, you might want to go to a step up on the pilots. 27.5 pilots. But, warm it up fully, turn each screw in till it seats...and turn it out .5 turns. See if that helps. Running an air box with the lid off? you MIGHT have to lean your main just a bit. I run 330's with my T5s, but have NO airbox....it's always better to be a little rich than a little main, but, I'd bet 310s or 320s would be closer....

Fast Racing is out of Kansas, and they don't have a website. Search the HQ forums for Fast Racing... Sorry...I should've been more clear...

This might be a next year project...I'm sure you've already seen this link, but...it does offer some great reading. Pretty much...once you get it dialed in...you simply turn the rod to dial the main... Lectron Fuel Systems linkie

Yeah, if you even think about using sandpaper...you might was well get die grinder out. You have about the same chance as getting it even... BB or stone hones are cheap...stone are the way to go...however, since BB hones like to snag on the ports....

Do a search on FAST clutch. While the tusk is a bargain, this clutch is the real deal.... Not to mention, when I looked at that tusk a few months ago...it was out of stock. Still is...and I looked every day for about 2 months or so. Ebay has a few sellers trying to rip you off. Just get the fast...it's about 10 bucks or so more than the HD barnett or EBC...and it'll git r done!

You need to do a plug chop to check your mains. You need to go out and buy 4 or 6 plugs. Warm the bike up on some old plugs. Then, do your plug chop. Also, you can try the choke trick. with the bike warmed up, go for ride, and pull the choke half way out. If it bogs and sputters...your main is too rich. If it runs better and revs cleaner....you're lean. Check the sticky posted at the top of this page...it's got a ton of good info and baselines on there....

Hey Rage...check out this thread. By no means am I saying bluetraxx.com is the final answer...but, when you have pages and pages of jetting specs, they can't all be wrong... Brian...I looked through the first few pages....any pipes they were running, from DMC to Pro Circuit, FMF to T5s...30 pilot was the largest they used. Take a look for yourself... http://www.bluetraxx.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=19889

35 pilots on stock carbs, no porting or stroked motor...sorry...dont' think so. Sorry...Brian. That dyno is measuring peak or higher RPMs... How do you dyno less than 4000 RPMs, where the pilot cuts out and the needle kicks in. On stock carbs wtih his setup...no way... Pro Circuits might flow 30's...tops on a stock port motor. I completely agree with you on the mains and needle. I'd need some strong convincing on that fat of a pilot. All he's got over me is a milled head and VForce...and a 27.5 pilot with 2.25 to 2.5 out on the screws or a 25 pilot with .5 or 1.0 on the screws is perfect, in our location. I don't see a PC pipe kit needing that much more pilot...on a stock motor at least. Regardless...he's talking about a fat main, and has yet to answer on the condition of his plugs....

No prob. I'm ready to get mine ported myself...waiting till after the 4th of July weekend to send out my junk... Can't wait.

Ahhh....good man. Yep, you'll notice a good difference in the powerband characteristics of your bike.

Don't get me wrong, it's not like you're adding NOS... Get the correct screw in type flywheel puller to take it off, do NOT use a jaw type. That will RUIN it totally. Look on Ebay, you can get 'em for 10 to 20 bucks. They're a snap to use... It makes the bike more linear...and easier to ride. Before...if you lugged it a bit and hit the throttle, you'd get the ol' infamous shee bog till it hit the pipe from lower RPMs. Now, because the motor is allowed to spin up faster, you're getting on the pipe sooner and smoother. Perfect for slower/tighter trails. Yes, it's sad to have to slow a shee down, but...gotta do it once in a while... My buddy with a 450R rode mine before and after the flywheel/+4, and he definately likes the powerband better now... I won't say it's four stroke like...it's better than that... By the way...what other mods do you have? You at least have pipes and the airbox opened up a bit...right? Not that you have to...but, stock pipes on a shee are the worst. You're losing BIG power just on those alone.

I hope you mean 25pilot. 35 is HUGE....way too much. From what I've read...I forgot if it's ProCircuits or FMF that like Fat pilots. I have similar mods to you (in my sig) and my main is a 330. However....I don't have a milled head or VForce. I know you are supposed to lean your needles one clip with those cages... The question is...you THINK you're lean...what do your plugs say? Do a search on Plug Chop...that's the real key. I have a 27.5 pilot, and now that it's blazing hot here...I"m thinking bumping down to a 25 again, with .5 to 1 out on the screws.

Not to mention....if it's out of balance, it'll eat up the crank bearing...and you surely don't want to go there...

Take a look at the Toomey 2 into 1 air filter system with an outerwear. Foam will flow more air when dirty...and the outwear helps a bunch with water/sand. I puts the air filter up under your seat more, instead of out in the open off the back of the carbs. I use that and the pods. I keep em both clean and ready to go...for a long weekend. It's like having a "spare" air filter... I haven't noticed a single bit of performance difference between the two of 'em... Take a look... http://www.toomey.com/html/newfilter_store.htm

Boon Tune is three things: Lightened flywheel, Shaved or milled head and a modded shiftstar. Lightened flywheel, you're pretty clear on. Milled head raises your compression. Ask Boonman what is best for you. More compression will give you a bit better low end. He can tell you based on your elevation and needs. If you plan on running pump premium gas, he'll probably tell you to shave .020 to .030, depending on your elevation. Modded shiftstar is really great. On the clutch side of the tranny, there is a little piece of metal that looks like a small sprocket or chinese throwing start. He machines this star to help the banshee shift better under full engine load (max RPMs) and makes it much easier to find Nuetral. Something all shees can use. Boon is a great guy...and will work with you 100%. He really went the extra mile in helping me out...and I have no reservation about recommending him to anyone.