dajogejr

I'm only asking for 1 dollar per reference...Jeff. Let the bidding war begin...LOCO!!

Well...a milled head is 40 to 60 bucks. A NOSS head is about 240 or so. How often do you plan on pulling your head, and how deep are your pockets. O Rings are nice, and...if you really plan on pulling the head to "adjust the compression"...than you have your answer. I think, however..once you get a level your comfortable with...you're going to leave it. The NOSS head does cool a bit better, and looks trick as hell. There's no denying that. However...if you're on a budget...get it milled. If you have the coin, get the Noss Cool Head.

Good to know. Magic is about 15 miles from my house...but, for about 8 bucks I can UPS ground it to my house, and have it next day. That's worth 8 bucks versus me going out there and fighting all that damned traffic. I'm getting the same kit meself....

Yep...gonna do it myself. Unless you want to run race gas....or live about 2500 to 3000 ft., I'd keep it at .020 or .025. PM Boonman, he's the man...and does a great job. A guy I ride with MIGHT have a coolhead laying around, he said he'd GIVE to me if he found it. I offered cash, and he said I can have it. Hopefully he finds that baby!!

Yep...96 stock build here. Takes about 9 to 12 kicks COLD to start. once warmed, half a kick... 110PSI in each...and I've been beating the bejeezus out of it... I know my jetting is damned near perfect...so, it should only take 1 to 2 kicks... I'm going with a head mod soon...but, that'll probably only make a bad top end wear quicker by putting more stress on it...it's not a substitute...it's a performance enhancer for a properly tuned and maintained shee...

Metro-Detroit area. In Roseville now, moving to St. Clair Shores in a week. As said, I have a 96 with a stock, untouched motor. Still runs good. I just know it's getting tired, and could use a freshening up. So, since it's stock...and they don't make a .010 piston kit, I'm 100% positive I can go a nice .020 on it... Depending on how much they charge and how fast they can get it done, I might try to get it torn down and back together for the 4th of July weekend... If not, I'll wait...

Hmmm...I've heard of them, and they're only a two hour drive for me or so... I've PM'd boonman, cause he's a helluva guy to deal with. But, I dont' want to mail 'em out if I don't have to.... Thanks.... I'll give 'em a call.

Anyone in the Metro Detroit area on here recommed a good, reputable machine shop for cylinder boring, honing? I need a fresh top end for my shee, and can't afford to go the porting/4mil crank route at this time. Any place close around here?

Can't go wrong with T5s. Good mid, good top....good looks and construction. Unless you go full out drag motor, they'll be good all around now, and future mods...

If you got Jeff's kit, there is no tabs. If you look at your steel plates, the steels aren't perfectly round, that's why you have to rotate tabs. Aftermarket clutches don't have that...and, you also throw out the rubber rings that came out of the stock clutch....the large O rings I mean. You put it on the same way it came off. Fiber, steel, Fiber...

No...unfortuneately..... He truly is a great guy...and very very helpful beyond the call of duty. I plan on getting set up by him soon...but so far all I've bought is his clutch...I've only owned my shee since February. The way he treats me, You'd think I already had him build me a 10K drag motor....(oh, and paid for it... ) You won't be dissapointed.

Well put...RN. Word...

You didn't mention bore in your first post, you just said you received your cylinders. If they were freshly bored by a shop, I agree...they should've honed them too. You should have a nice, 30 degree hone on them, in a cross hatch pattern....

Well...on pavement it'll definately hook up...so, I think your clutch is ok if it bogged. YOu'll have to take off the right side of your cases, draining the coolant and oil first. It's behind the pressure plate/hub assembly. This will give you a chance to inspect and measure your plates for wear... At this point, get it all checked out.... Get a Clymers manual...they're the Banshee Bible!!

You can go to the dealer and get the mains, I'd bet. I'm sure the pilots and needles will be different, though....

Depends on what kind of trails you ride. Open ones...with hills...get the extended. Short, tight and twisty...that extended doesn't turn as well as a stock or shortened one...no disputing that. This whole post boils down to what exactly you want to do...and how much time and money you want to spend. Shit...if I had the money...I'd have both...a nice 4 stroke to relax and ride trails on, and a hopped up shee for racing and fast, open trails.... It's hard to make one quad do everything, though..just like it's hard to get everything out of a banshee powerband....

You think he needs that rich of a main at 1400 feet still using an air box? I have none with T5s...and I'm at 330s. You definately have a ballpark figure for your jetting now...it's up to you to fine tune it...

How much free play at the end of your lever. Last time you changed your case oil? Might be time to adjust the pushrod/ball assembly. Here's the best way...put it in second...from a dead stop. Try and take off like normal...with a tad more gas. If it wants to slip...it's more than likely the clutch. If not...if it just sits and bogs...you've to go adjust it somewhere...

Yep....sure can. You can also shear the degree key pretty easily and ruin your ride REAL quick... It's 35 bucks for a cast stator plate from Ricky Stator. I think it's around 20 or 25 bucks for the key... That's just simple math....and common sense. A timing plate will never go bad....a degree key very possibly might, especially on a good strong motor putting out some power...

Yep...pretty much all do. I'm tellin ya though...with +4 and a lightened flywheel, T5s will have all the bottom you need...plus have more on top than the PCs...

It puts more pressure on the plates so the clutch resists slipping. IF you only have bolt on mods...I'd use 3HD and 3 Stock springs. IF you have porting, etc...and other internal mods, use all 6HD springs.

If your dealer can't get you part numbers for other than stock jets...go to another dealer...that's sick. Stock Pilots are 25. They go up in size by 2.5 Increments...so, 27.5 would be one larger than stock...and so on. I read somewhere you MUST get Banshee pilots...they are a bit longer than standard Mikuni Pilot jets. However..I just ordered them at my dealer...and all is well. Stock Mains are 200, but could be 190 or 210....depending what dealer it was shipped to...or if the dealer rejetted it... They go up in increments of 10. The higher, the richer...just as the pilots. There are no "Air Jets" Rocky Mountain ATV or Magic Racing will ship you what you need no questions...

True...covered time and time again...but, to help get you in the ball park. If it's a K&N and you're keeping the airbox: 260 to 290 Main 27.5 or 30.0 Pilot (25 is stock) If it's a K&N Pod air filter setup (NO airbox, clamp on to carbs) 270 to 310 Main Same Pilots as above. I read the sticky on this forum about jetting...and it go me very, very close on mine....It looks like a lot of reading, but it is great, great info....

Don't hate me Rocket fans...but... I just demo'd the Rockets. My motor is bone stock, as in never been cracked open. They slowed me down over my T5s. However...Ray is such a great guy...I'm hoping (read...budget) to let Jeff @ FAST port my shit and weld my crank, on top of milling the head, and try them out again. I race my buddy on his 450R all day long...and, it's a close race, usually I hand it to him. However, even if he gets me out of the hole, I can catch up and pass him 3rd - 4th gear. On my demo day...I had my bike widing out 6th gear, and he was catching me...(I hole shot the shit out of him...)... Never, ever happened before... So...I was going to go with the T6. But...I fully planned on porting my shee from teh day I picked it up...did my research, and got my T5s. I've very please with them...especially after the boon tune!!!

Well...I just signed the deal on my first house today...(Insert...finally...here) So...I'll be on a tight budget for a little bit...but, they are definately on my list of stuff to get. I've heard they're a bit wacky to get used to, but easy as hell to tune and hard to beat on power...sounds like it's all true!!