dajogejr

You sure about that...RSTB? At higher RPMs...the sooner the spark, (Advance) the sooner it can light off the mixture and make power. It should make more power on top than bottom. I can see with extra compression (18cc domes) sacrificing a little power on top...but not timing.

I'm with Talon. The stock carbs are easy to tune and there is much more info out there for them.... What you need to do is get the TORS removal kit. It's about 30 bucks. DO NOT get new carbs as said, until you understand how yours work. The kit comes with a drill, tap, two bullet end idle screws and nuts, new carb caps w/ cable adjusters, and a new throttle cable. It's item number 101351K, and it's about a 1/3 of the way down the page. http://www.vitosperformance.net/BANSHEE.HTM#FUEL%20&%20AIR

The slides will be a hair open...that's how it idles. Someone will have to pipe in. The knobs on top do adjust your idle. I'm not 100% sure if that's how you sync your carbs...though. It's been so long, at least 10 years...since I worked on a banshee with a TORS on it still. With the aftermarket caps and cable, it's very easy...

You need to do two things. Those "Black things" are the slides. You need to be 100 positive they move at the same time, not just wick the throttle and see they go up and down. I'm talking just barely pushing the throttle a few milimeters...and making sure they open and close at the same time...not just up and down, oke doke. Then...seat your air screws all the way. DO NOT force them. once they are seated gently, turn each one out 1 full turn. Keep turning them out until the throttle response is as good as it can be. You'll end up from 1 to 2.5 turns out....

Hey...no problem. I was just confuzed as all hell when we were talking about idle adjustment...whether you had the TORS on...or them removed with the brass idle screws...that's all. You'll get it going, no doubts about it. Just takes time... TO me...once you learn to setup your own carbs properly..everything else is pretty darned easy...

I've got a suggestion... Get it running first by following Tallon's suggestion. He has more patience than I in this thread. He gave you a 100% perfect picture. Looks like you still have the TORS adjusters still on there. If you plan on keeping this quad, get rid of the TORS...they are junk and get in the way. As for your second question....what does DG nerfs have to do with standing on the bike and leaning to one side or the other....unless you're standing on the nerf and it's dragging in the ground. I'd check the easy things first. Like...Tire pressure. Believe it or not....one pound less in one tire can cause this. Prop the ass end off the ground and check for play. Your best bet right now is to Run, don't walk, to the store and get a Clymers manual for your bike. All the specs and how to check them are right in there!! Good luck...

I third the notion...you won't be dissapointed.

To put that kind of money into it and not port it would be a damn shame. You don't need an all out drag port. Some builders call it an MX port, some call it an aggressive Trail port...and I'm sure there are other names. Jeff @ FAST racing, Jim @ Passion Racing, Eric Gorr are all a few good engine builders and come highly recommended on this site. You do need a better breathing pipe. T5's are more all around. Shearer, CPIs and Rockets are more geared toward drag, but...they will make more power on top...period. Don't forget two EASY\Cheap mods, if you haven't had 'em done already. Timing plate from Ricky Stator AND a lightened flywheel. Ask who is doing your engine work what pipe they recommend. If you go the porting route, which...you should...I'd ask that builder. Tell him how you want to and where you ride. Talk to them about what kind of power you want to make, and they can tell you what kind of porting and pipe combos should work best....

replace the already known bad...slipping clutch. I'd bet fresh fluid won't hurt...either.

I'd start your own thread instead of "Crapping" on someone else's thread.. You'll get better help..

You still have the TORS on those carbs from the sounds of it. Do a search here for "TORS REMOVAL" and you should have your answers. The kit is cheap and easy to install, and gets all that crap out of the way. You disconnect a few wires, put new carb caps on, drill and tap each carb for an idle ajustment screw...and you're set. It sounds like a big deal...I assure you, it's not.

WORD....what he said. Jeff's clutch is within a few bucks of buying a new Barnett or EBC kit...however, the attitude and help Jeff is willing to offer can't have a dollar amount put on it. While I plan on having Jeff do my whole motor (he hasn't offered to do it for free yet, hence my problem.. J/K...Jeff...got my new house now, I'm tryin!!)...I've only bought a clutch kit from his thus far. You'd have thought I've bought 3 bikes and 3 motors off him for as good as he treats me on the phone and how helpful he is.... Make the call, you won't be sorry.

Word...man's gotta eat.. I'd take it for a good 5 to 10 minute ride, making sure it's fully warm... I really don't think you're going to gain more than a few PSI...which, is not even close to where you need to be!

To allow for as much air as possible into the chamber for a proper check. Normally..it's only a few PSI...but, it's in the book! Good thing is...they are all wearing pretty darn even, which is nice. When you say you let it run for 5 minutes...is that in idling or actually going out...riding it...and warming it up properly?

http://www.carbparts.com/

Noted... With my lightened flywheel and +4 degree timing plate, my main jetting stayed the same. However...with the more compression AND +4 timing...one size on the jetting would probably be more on the safe side. I personally think 350 or higher will be too fat with an airbox on...but, each is different, and he definately has the help he needs to at the very least be close...if not dialed in!!!

+4 doesn't effect jetting. I ride between sea level and 500 to 800 feet. The head doesn't effect jetting...either...and the cages, well, usually you bump the needle. With the SAME pipes he's getting...I was at 350 with no airbox. And...it was a good 90 degree day we ran 'em...so, it was HOT!! 330 will be more than safe. He'll have to chop 'her from there!!

I'd buy 310 to 360 Mains. With an airbox...I think you'll end up with a 320 or 330 main. With NO airbox I used a 350 when I demo'd a set of Rockets from Ray, 27.5 pilots, about 2.25 turns out. I have similar mods as you...but stock head (Milled head doesn't effect jetting, just octane requirements) Keep in mind...I had Pod Filters. The fact that you're in Florida where it's nice and toasty...makes me say a tad leaner... While you're at it...have boonman lighten your flywheel. Between that and my +4 timing plate, it gave my shee a nice bump and feel to her...

Way low for that elevation and 18cc's. Courtesey of Mr. Noss...look at the bottom of this page for a "Fresh Motor" PSI spec based on dome size and elevation. Props to Dave Noss for a great product and support!! http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

Ahh...got it. I know an old trick to see if the CDI was shot is to close the gap to .020 and see if it revs out better... Never read that about higher comp, though... Once Jeff gest my whole motor done and I get more comp...I'll have to give this a shot. Good info...thanks.

Don't waste money on a degree key, they can sheer pretty easily and ruin your trip. Goto Rickystator.com, get a 35 dollar cast adjustable timing plate. It's cheap, easy to do...and well worth every penny. +4, Set it and Forget it....

Remember to take a cold reading as well as a warmed up reading too...there will probably be a slight difference. Your final reading should be with a warmed up engine...and holding the throttle wide open as mentioned above...

.018? Fixit...I thought they were supposed to be .028 to .030....

You can have Mt. Morris...it's great for a bike with all the whoops...I hate it on a quad. Not to mention, DNR will get you for noise and spark arrestors. I thought the mounds was more like 1000 acres. I'm sure it is larger than 200...Dusty's is 500 and is much smaller than the mounds, unless they closed off the majority of it since the last I was there a few years ago... I'm gonna freshen up my top end coming soon....and plan on hitting Dusty's in a few weeks.... WIll have to post it up when that happens.

From Flint, you're an hour from Dusty D's in Standish. 10 bucks to ride....500 acres of private property. Drags, a small track, woods, trails, mud...anything you want. You need to check it out. Head over to www.michigandirtslingers.com and search for it...it's basicaly about 7 to 10 miles east of I75 off the standish exit (exit 190, M-61). Fun...and very close. I'll be up there next weekend...possibly...