dajogejr

Yep, new plating on the cylinders (it's time after 3 years) and new pistons. I don't know what it's going to need for the crank...just a bearing, or something bigger. Otherwise...nope, nothing new.

If they can force Indy to turn over the ball, they can win. Manning is a better and more efficient QB than Farve (right now...not in the past/history, etc.) Farve walked all over the Saint's Defense and put up way better numbers. Look at the complete season, the Saint's D forced (and earned) those turn overs. But when they didn't get them, they lost. Indy has the number one ranked Offense in the league. That being said, both Dallas and Minnesota were ranked higher than the Saints and look what they did to them. Turnovers will dictate this game, 100%... Drew Brees can't light up the field when his D is getting walked on up and down the field. Don't get me wrong, I've been a Saints fan for years, back when the ex-Michigan Panther Bobby Hebert was their QB and Dalton Hillard was their start running back (before Duce Mc.) And I can't stand Peyton.... I'd love to see Who Dat run all over Indy....I hope they do!!

Make sure your pancake is adjusted right, use both balls in each groove in the slingshot. Make sure your pressure plate and hub are in good shape. If any of it is questionable...replace them all. FAST clutch is 90ish or so, 50 ish for the new OEM inner and outer. I usually go two seasons on the inner and outer and replace them, just because. I had my FAST clutch last 3 seasons of abuse...still keep it as a backup and went back to a FAST clutch for 2009 after a raptor clutch in 2008 was bad after a year.

Bike's looking good Joe...you're killing me. Mine is still sitting in the garage, untouched from the last race sans the motor and side covers. I really gotta get off my arse and do something with it. This cold weather really doesn't inspire confidence...LOL.

I would like to see more time on the Extreme dunables to see how they hold up long term. I'm sure they'll be fine...but...you know..

Dave... Maybe one day Unicef will get into the banshee business, I guess until then we'll have to buy our parts from you. LOL.... Dave has always been a stand up guy and direct to the point. I wouldn't hesitate to buy or sell anything with him/to him. Good luck to ya buddy.

cc for cc, I'll take the stroke over the bigger bore. In my experience (and as always, there are exceptions AND variables, so this is a general blanket statement) the longer stroke motors rev out further giving you a more usable RPM range to suit your needs to. Again, very broad statement...not bible by any means.

D'oh...thanks buddy. There's a thread on PS by Brad about a stock stroke 72 bore DM...got my wires crossed, I really need to unplug.. LOL.

I'd take a 10 mil cub over a 4 mil super any day. Pistons are easier and cheaper to get, you can use a more readily available head by Chariot, Noss, etc. Domes are more common and easier to get as well. I'll take the stroke over the bore any day when we're talking these "smaller" motors....LOL. Unless you're running in a class where 450cc was the limit (since a 4 mil super is 439ccs)

We use stock stars for our overrides, cut/weld them as needed. We also recommend 2 qts. of ATF Type F for the trans. You'll have to change it more often, but it is cheaper than motor cycle gear oil. Does it feel notchy when it actually running, or when it's on the bench or in your frame with the motor killed? My trans feels like crap with the motor not running, but in 3 years of hard abuse it's never let me down once, shifts like butter every time.

I know and race with that guy that makes the swingarms. Let's face it...stock design swingarms are junk to begin with.... That doesn't change the fact that it broke, I'm just saying, roundhouse from the beginning is all. You do get what you pay for. For every arm that has broke on him, I'm sure he has 10 that have no problems...

When I first built my 4 mil cub motor, all I had were stock carbs and T5 pipes. I wanted to run the motor, but I didn't have bigger carbs and better pipes or the money to buy them... It ran like crap. Absolute crap. Quite a few people told me it was because of such small carbs and trail/dune exhaust. It ended up being a bad air leak at the base gasket, a bad flywheel AND the deck surface of a brand new cylinder had a little dip causing water to seep in. Once I got that fixed, it flat out ripped with stock carbs and T5 pipes. Even made 84 HP and change on a dyno. (Within a month I had 35's on gas and inframe RDZ/Shearer, but that's not the point) My point is...will smaller carbs and more restrictive pipes work on a larger engine? Yes. Safe to say anyone could tell you you're not going to get the most HP out of that setup...but they will absolutely work, hands down.

I'd bet the settings are damn near the same from 7 to stock stroke cub. You'll probably need a hair bigger jet for the stock stroke, but not much if at all. I know JT's 4 mil cub liked more fuel than my 10 did on 39PWKs...going by jet size alone.

Why wouldn't you use 39 pumpers which are cheap and readily available since you're going to put it on methanol?

For two years I would take them apart after or before the next race and brake clean them. Last year I got lazy....just purged them real good. This year, I'm going to get back into cleaning them after every race. Methanol is nasty and corrosive. If I rode every weekend or close to it...I'd probably just purge still. But I ride 1-2 a month in the summer time... Brake clean removes any build up or film inside the carbs, helps the needle and seat seal, etc.

ON a 4 mil cub with PWK 35s and a clean up port I used 48 pilots and 152 mains. You're rich IMO. You might need a little more jet on a stock stroke vs. a 4 mil due to a better intake signal and more dwell, but...you're rich IMO. Have you leak tested the motor and checked the squish? Absolutely critical on any motor, even more so on an aftermarket cylinder.

Cody... If your cases aren't all whacked to hell then drill a hole in the case behind the stator cover. That's where most of the guys drill theirs for. I just don't have enough material there left.

Twister are billet as said. My crank is a crankworks...it FINALLY shit the bed. It might even be something simple like a bearing, but it was used when I got it and it's spent 3 seasons in the bike. Time for a new one. It is a stock fuel valve, drill out the gas cap. I've got a pump and billet bowls, probably don't need either for the 300 feet I race but...I've never had a fuel issue so don't fix what ain't broke! I've got a dual pingle...but I have a hard time putting that on when what I have works. We all put our fuel pumps under the seat latch. Yep, as said, stock motor mounts all the way around. The front tubes are cut, it's a Tyson lightened frame, they are Chrome though. Any machinist can make you one if you give them the dimensions. The heims are what cost money. I'd bet Tim @ Stellar (site sponsor) AZCUSTOMS can make a bad ass looking one. We all run them here as well as a spring loaded chain tensioner. Without it...you can pull up on the chain and see how much the motor flexes under power....

I hope you didn't buy a billet crank for it. I've seen more billet cranks break than forged... Since my cases are whacked to all hell, I had to make my engine stay bolt to the side cover (1/2 inch thick) This should not be TIGHT, it should move a little...

Was this from that whole bansheeboyz post?

I wish I would've seen this earlier... I am absolutely not a dealer for them. My buddy learned how to cut them from Brad Tyson and went off on his own. He's got the mill and rotary vice to properly cut them in his garage, he doesn't put it in a bench vice and use an air grinder..LOL. The Extreme trans from WCR sounds very promising, he will give you a 6 month warranty on it as well. However...until one of them is out there and stands the test of time, I'm reasonably skeptical. 4 years ago I got my 1-5 dunable from Jeff @ FAST and at that time he had them done by WCR...I don't know if he still does...he can answer for that. After 3 seasons of abuse and probably over a thousand passes, it still shift great and looks great. However, I have a drag only bike...so I can't comment on how it'd work otherwise. From what I've heard...and again, i haven't seen one of these extreme trans, they are completely different than his old dunables. There are springs between gears, the drum is cut different...etc. Again, going by what I've heard. I've heard of some issues from WCR as well. But to be fair...one guy that slung him into the mud was impatient and didn't really want to work with WCR on a 1-6 override, which WCR sold to another customer and it worked fine for them. Always 2 sides to every coin....

Nothing wrong with them at all...the most important thing is a good true/weld once you get it. I'll be replacing my 10 mil crankworks crank with a 10 mil Vitos when I put mine back together!

Possible the crank is starting to split and it's rubbing.

Just because you don't see any cracks in the intake boots when they're sitting there doesn't mean when the motor is running the rubber isn't flexing and causing a crack all the way through to open up. Use carb cleaner and spray the intakes down at idle and with the throttle cracked open to double check can make sure the cracks aren't all the way through.

I would agree wholeheartedly with bansheman regarding reliability and operation of the motor. The squish, unless unreasonably tight, has more to do with the efficiency and performance of the motor. I wouldn't say that is as important as wall clearance or ring gap, but nonetheless is it important in overall motor health...