dajogejr

When you say everything in the electrical is new, exactly what has been replaced. And...what he said...what kind of carbs? Another set of Stockers..? Checked all your wires, in and out of your kill switch, CDI box, etc?

Word...what he said. That single carb setup is nice for woods and slow(er) riding. For open running let her breath....get dualies!! On top of that stuff, get a Ricky Stator Timing Plate and get your flywheel lightened, too... Those two items won't even make a dent in your budget.

Once started...good idea to blip the throttle a few times, for the first minute or so. Notice I said BLIP... It helps circulate the water when cold, and helps it warm up quicker, too. (That's why the factory guys at your race blip theirs on the gate, to get that water ciruclating...) I normally 1/2 choke mine to start it...blip for about 10 seconds, close the choke...blip off and on for another minute, and shee idles just fine.

Bout time you got this thing going... I remember all the posts on this some time back. Get some friggin chrome on her for Pete's sake. Seriously...this is a cool looking project. I'd love to see/hear it when it's done! Keep it up!

The most important is draining the gas from the carbs....so they don't gum up... then...a little premix in the cynlinders...as said above as well. You seem to have done a bit of research already...good for you.. Lastly...can you put it up on blocks...and maybe give the tires a good cleaning and conditioner...so they don't flat spot or dry crack. Sure...they shouldn't...but, hey...why chance it for 10 minutes worth of work, ya know? Heck with it...just pack her up and ride her to school, it's gotta be cheaper than driving your car with today's gas prices...I'd bet at about 70MPH you could cover that trip on a tank or two...

http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=135&catid=133 Read it carefully...gaskets AND Wrist pin bearings included...all you need is time...

Yeah...if you got the puller, you're less than an hour away from having all that stuff put on. Have fun...I think my bud and I are going riding ourselves this Sunday...

CALL HIM AND ASK... When I bought my kit from him a few months ago...he just ran out. However...he stocks a ton of stuff. Call him. If not...your local dealership has 'em for about 12 bucks I think I paid for mine.

I understand. Do a search on this forum for FAST clutch...you can read all you need to know. Two sets? Why? His set comes with 6 springs, all Heavy duty. If pipes are all you have for your shee...my personal opinion would be put 3 HD springs in and 3 stock springs. Also...get an EZ Pull clutch pertch and lever. However...once you build it internally...porting, etc., you're going to need all 6 springs. My mods are very, very mild...and 3 HD, 3 stock springs work fine and don't pump my arm up too much. I know once Jeff ports my motor I'm going to need all 6HD springs...though. Give him a call...just make sure you have 1/2 an hour to spare. Jeff likes to chew the fat...

You're kidding...right? Just because the TUSK kit is cheap...doesn't mean 95 is expensive. A new clutch with HD Springs from Barnett or EBC is 89 plus shipping, etc. I'd pay an extra 20 for that clutch with all the help Jeff gives you... If you have T5 pipes and a slight overbore piston you don't have a "high horsepower" banshee as your friend says. It probably makes about 7 to 8 horsepower more than stock...and you're not getting a lick of power from that boost bottle. Unless you're fixed on the looks of it...get rid of it. It just takes up space. Once again, that tusk kit with HD springs is out of stock. In the last 7 months, I can't remember checking that site when it was in stock... http://www.rockymountainatv.com/Product_De...tv?pid=00055599 I hope you mean 280 jetting with those pipes...not 180. 180 is LEANER than stock...and you'll be needing a lot more parts than you've listed if you keep running it like that... Call Jeff @ FAST Racing. He's got it all, and his prices are in line with the big boys on the net. His attitude, honesty and helpfulness are priceless...

Ok...so what Mains did you end up with? And...wait till you do the flywheel and timing plate. You THINK you like it now...wait till you get them on!!

Once you remove the airbox...you don't even have to remove the carbs anymore. Just loosen the intake clamp...and twist.... Yeah, since I got mine in February from a bud, I've had my carbs off at least 10 times to clean, jet, rejet...I kept buying more stuff. Like an addiction... I'm happy now. Waiting to get some time to go with a friend to get it on a dyno. Dyno tuned is the only 100% accurate way to jet your bike...but, I know I'm darn close if not dialed in.... Best of luck!!

With the lightened flywheel and degree plate, you will hardly notice this dead area...period. Stuar Toomey knows his stuff...and he's a helluva good guy to talk to and deal with. However...I would not take his word as 100% bible. His jet kit comes with 270 and 280 mains, and with Toomey pipes is said to be the perfect jetting for my setup including NO airbox. Without an airbox, and using either K&N pod filters OR his 2 into 1 foam filter setup...these main jets are still too lean. The instructions in the jet kit say they are the correct jets...undoubtedley...so...take that with a grain of salt. You can remove the flywheel one of two ways. Buy the correct puller from Ebay for about 10 bucks...get an air gun, and take it off. Or...the stealership. If you're going to have the Stealership take it off, you might as well have them install the plate and put the flywheel back on. You can adjust the plate with a 10mm open end wrench even with the flywheel on. The instructions shipped with the plate clearly tell you how to set the timing. Honestly...it's very very easy, nothing to get worried about. Good luck...

When I put my plate on...I didn't touch my jetting...just an FYI. You're going to love it coupled with the flywheel....

He is using the airbox, with lid...no snorkel. I'd say anything over 300 is going to be rich...period...

Yes...that is correct. Turning out the air screws allows more air through the low speed, or pilot circuit. Making it leaner... Good luck...

If he leaves the airbox AND cover on...I think 320's would be too rich. I'm running 330's with NO airbox and Pods. However...if you remove the lid, albeit it'll be rich...it won't be far off.

32.5 pilots if he plans on running alcohol...maybe. Without an airbox I run 27.5 with the screws about 2.25 turns out. Max is supposed to be 2.5...before you go the next size DOWN (25) You are too rich off the bottom already. Want proof? Pull your choke out halfway...it'll get even worse. If it's lean..which it isn't, you'll make it better. Put the stock pilots back in if you plan on running your airbox, with the air screws between 1 and 2 turns out. Remember to adjust them 1/4 turn at a time, with the engine warm...and allowing it to run for 20 to 30 seconds for the air screw adjusment to "set". The T5's a a little peaky. Not nearly as much as a drag...but more so than most pipes. I love mine...but, to be honest...my timing plate set at +4 degrees and lightened flywheel made a big difference. It still pulls..but, the hit is toned down just a bit. Considering you can get these mods both for under 100 to 110 bucks...do it. When you put the VForce reeds in, if your using the stock needles, move the clip one notch to the blunt end (leans it out). Actually...fix your pilot and air screw...ride it. Then...get your reeds...ride it. If it feels a bit sluggish in the mid, then adjust the clip on the needle. I have the Toomey/Dynojet needles...and in the 4th clip (they have 6 grooves as opposed to 5 stock) and I can't tell the difference between them and the stock...so, I just left 'em in. Good luck... Oh...and at sea level, with an air box and normal summer temps (70 to 90 degrees) you'll end up with a 270 to 300 Main, somewheres in there.

No. Stock carbs have air screws...the fuel/air mixture screw is behind the venturi. That being said, turning it out leans out the idle circuit to just off idle.

List your specs, as far as what kind of pipes, your airbox/filter situation... Also, list your air temperature and riding elevation. I'd do the following: Compression test on each cylinder, both cold then hot, fully warmed. Check all electrical connections, including ground wires, plugs (new ones) caps, etc. Pull each carb off, clean the bejezus out of every hole in her...jets, tubes, etc. Make sure each carb is synced... I ran mine once after changing my mains...and it ran like total crap. All it needed was the carbs resynced.... Make sure you got fresh premium gas, too.

I had 330's in mine from my T5s, tested out the rockets and used 350's. Also...I agree, you'll need 27.5 pilots and end up between 1.5 and 2.5 turns out on the screws... Vito's is here in MI...and they got a guy I ride with turning circles on his 87 shee. If Vitos were a public company...I'd buy stock in them just based on what this guy spent...only to have my shee spank him handily all day long. What a jack hole. you'd need 250s with stock pipes and removed air box...

A clutch that doesn't grab might make it easier to shift...however, a clutch that isn't disengaging properly wlll cause it to shift like shit. usually that means springs, pressure plate/hub and or worn out/sticking plates. Either way...time to dissasemble the clutch assembly and inspect...hopefully you get lucky.

Yeah...I was kinda thinking the same thing. However...pulling the clutch apart and inspecting all items involved will not hurt...and could be part of the problem if not the only problem... Or...worn out parts could cause the tranny to go bad, too...

Either you have the most unique banshee ever made....or, it's because it's your first quad. Look at the pinned article on top of this page for how to do a plug chop. If you follow that to a T, with those main jets and the plug is just as it should be, then I'll be a believer.... There is just no way a stock piped banshee will need mains higher than a 300 at most....unless you were riding in freezing temps below sea level...and even then I think it'll be rich. You sure those are 340 and not 240?

Possibly... Does it fade in and out? It might be starting to go.... Get a shift star mod, it'll help with shifting, especially finding nuetral while running and stopped. Take the side off...remove, look at and measure the plates. While you're at it...look at the pressure plate and hub. Shouldn't be notched ...nice and smooth. When you get it apart, give Jeff a call @ FAST Racing. He sells a great streetbike kit clutch for the banshee that gets great reviews here...I love mine. He can walk you through what to look for. He also stocks the pressure plate and hub, which...once I have him port my motor I'm definately going to get as well... Jeff Wendorff FAST Racing 785-365-5325 Besides good pricing and good parts, he's a helluva nice guy to deal with and will talk your ear off trying to help you out and offer advice. When I get a few more coin...I'm going to get my motor done up by him. Jeff is making me pay for it...since he doesn't work for free and won't "Donate" a FAST motor to me... I've begged, groveled...pleaded...he won't budge... Just kiddin Jeff....can't wait to get a few more bills to send my stuff to you.