dajogejr

If you want "Praise" for your ride, try posting it in the pictures forum, instead of the repair and mod forum...

Jeff @ FAST is out of Holt, Kansas. I'm shipping him the whole engine. A&S is in MI, last I checked they have the fastest shee 'round...but, I've heard they have longer delays in getting your motor back. Granted, two things...it's off season for us, for the most part, which means many who put off the rebuild/build are sending the motors out now and...when you claim the "fastest" title, everyone wants their work done by you. So, I'm sure they have plenty of engines to keep them more than busy. Again, I'm getting my info from Planetsand...and that tread was a little dated. They do very good work, again, from what I've read.

I've had a buddy snap two off in his Raptor...granted, fourstroke, heavier flywheel..etc. However... If he has pipes, a good port job and has it tuned right, he should be very close if not at the 50HP figure (again, depends on pipes, other mods, port job, etc.) I don't know if the RS plate was available two years, or ever 4 years ago...however, it is now, I got mine early last year, I wouldn't even think about getting a key... Especially since you can't adjust a key....the plate you can. It's really a no brainer...

imageshack.com works well, also. No account needed. Just upload the pic, and you have your choice of a small thumbnail image or link to post in forums... Very Easy to use...

Is there a problem? Tough question. A stock key will hold up better, period. Why limit yourself to a key when you can have a quality part that will not fail and you have adjustability. I mean...how much is a key? 10 bucks or so? What's an extra few bucks for insurance and adjustability? You're pulling the flywhee either way. It's two screws and three 10mm bolts to remove and replace the stator plate...

That's a good point...wallrat. I'm sending my motor to FAST soon. I'm not sure if he builds the fastest engines...in fact, I think someone here in MI does, A&S...maybe? However, I saw JT's bike run at Silver Lake, Jeff did that bike. And, I've spoken to Jeff on the phone a few times. Seeing a bike of his run, and his customer service has got me sold. He is just flat out a helluva nice guy. His pricing is right on par, too. That being said...I've never read anything bad about Gorr's work. I was originally thinking of Gorr before I talked with Jeff, and Jeff had nothing but good things to say about him, too. Call a few builders, talk to them...and see what kind of pricing and comfort level they give you, and make your choice!!

DO NOT get the Vito's Key... Go to Ricky Stator's site, get the adjustable timing plate. It's 35 bucks plus shipping. Timing keys can shear...a plate won't. Plus...you have that adjustability for future mods, all the way from -10 to +10 degrees of timing....it's a no brainer. Get your flywheel lightened while you're at it.

Got it... If you're looking for more top end power, ditch that single carb setup and get two carbs again... a pair of 32mm Lectrons if you can afford them, if not...a pair of 34, 36mm will suffice. That single setup is great for trails and more low end. I think you're looking for more top end power/speed now...which, you will not reach the potential unless you go back to twin carbs...IMO.

yes... The T5s are a better top end pipe... Since you are getting 69mm pistons, you're not just boring your jugs out...you're either resleeving or getting new jugs. I think T5s will respond better. However...you'll be up around/over 400cc of displacement. What are your current mods, mods you plan on doing...etc.

That...my friend, is a true statement. I grew up on bikes, then 3 wheelers, then bikes...then quads, then bikes...now a quad again. My CR250s didn't have the hit of a banshee...albeit similar horsepower, just very linear. Two of my buddies didn't want to ride my shee until I put a thumb back on...one still doesn't want to ride it... I love the twist for dragging...but, for tighter trails, which...I'm riding less of...thumb is easier to hang on... To each is own...that's for sure!

Rigid wrist and a few loose marbles... Yours if you want it...just let me know!

jtp... If you are set on a twst throttle, I still have my kit, in the garage. It has about 3 hours of ride time on it...if not less. I know I have the cable, throttle housing, throttle tube and carb caps. However, you'd still need to get the TORS removal kit. If you're serious, I could dig all this stuff up, and send it to you for a very good price, rather than pay more for a brand new kit.... Your choice...let me know if I can help...

Myself included. I was a CR guy for years...finally glad to get back on 4 wheels (well, 4 most of the time... ) My buddy rode my shee one time in a field, twisted too much and ended up on the grab bar, by accident of course. He wouldn't ride it again till I put my thumb back on... If all you're going to do is drag or dune, a twist is nice since you're @ WOT most of the time. But, if you plan on trail riding...you might get hurt....

It's hard pack...so, he's probably spinning the tires. I'd suggest a 14 tooth front to smooth out the hit, and/or a better rear tire to grab. You can spend enough money to make a banshee torquey...never as much as a four stroke. But, screamin power on top is what a banshee is all about...

Tape off both ends of the pipe...fill it with gasoline and rocks, perferrably flinty ones...an shake till you can't no more. JUST KIDDING...I read that once in a while elsewhere and it still cracks me up... I bought my T5s off a fellow HQ'er...save a few hundred bucks. They were (are) a bit rusty...but, hey...I saved enough $$ on 'em to make it worth it. I'm having them JetHot coated real soon by a friend of a friend...save on the pipes if you have to, and you can always get them coated or cleaned up later if they're not "pretty"... The stock pipes are just plain awful, suck, shitty...I think that covers it.

Aside from bigger carbs as said...depending on what pipes you have...you might want ones that breathe better too.. CPI and Shearer seem to be the most popular inframe drag pipes.... Of course...if you're not willing to go all out (which...you shouldn't have gotten a "drag port" if you're not) you might go with T5's, Paul Turners or some FMFs to keep a little bottom, albeit sacraficing a bit on top... I'd ask the person who ported your cylinders for their recommendation on jetting. they won't be able to tell you exactly...but, they can probably get you within 2 sizes. Always error on the rich side for a new build....depending on your pipes, and if you keep the stock carbs, I'd say you'll be in the 350 Main range, depending on your temps and altitude, too.....

Unless you completely dissasemble your engine and drain the whole thing dry...you'll end up with about 1 to 2 inches left in the bottle (or...jug) of engine ice...

You've got that backwards. A bigger in front gives more top end and less acceleration, bigger in the rear is more acceleration and less top end...and vice versa of course. Think about a 10 speed bike...the bigger up front, the harder it is to take off...but, you're hauling once you get going....same on the rear. The large gear gets you going...but, it jumps down to the smaller sprockets as you shift gears higher.... With those mods...It might pull a 15...front sprockets are cheap...I'd get a 14 and 15... Get your flywheel shaved and an adjustable timing plate for cheap, easy and noticeable power...

Motion pro sells a kit, complete with throttle housing, throttle tube, cable and new cab caps. You will have to remove the TORS,however...which you can get that kit several places as well. Hit Magic Racing's site...they have it there, or...Vito's....

Huh??? Last I checked CPI and Shearer were top end drag pipes. I've never heard of a "bottom end" CPI pipe... T5s, Lightened flywheel and get an adjustable timing plate. Set the plate at +4...live happily ever after. Love my T5s, but they really started to shine in the trails with the timing and lighter flywheel....even my buddy on his 450R noticed a big difference when he jumped on my shee...

That...I can't wait to see...

I'll back that up.... The only thing I saw beat him at Silver lake was a "Busa powered Shee...and not by much at all... If I had the money, I'd get JT's setup, with the exception of 32mm Lectron Carbs instead of the 39mm Kehins he had...and I might not go drag port...I ride a little more trails. Other than that...I'd get a 4 mil cub bike in a heartbeat.

I was thinking the same thing. However, if he's a Pike's Peak guy...he should have some pretty good expertise how to go fast and how to get there. I agree 80 to 90HP is a little much. I'd say in the 50's you can get there without too much struggle. Wait...you ride your shee to work? That's not even fair...you should'nt even be able to post that... Just kidding, Kotin...It's just that I'm extremely jealous... You can get the Ricky Stator adjustable timing plate here: http://www.rickystator.com/pages/Yamaha_Bl...ming_plate.html

If all you're trying to do is be faster than your cousin's stock raptor, stop at the pipes, jetting and head. That's all you'll need. All I have done to my quad is basically in my signature, and I spank any of the new STOCK 4 strokes.... However, once you get into pipes, cams, ignitions, higher compressions, etc., on a new YFZ or R, it's a whole new ball game. Those 4 strokers are fast!! A stroker crank moves the crank journal off center, 4mm, and it will give you more power. However, since it is stroking longer, it puts the rod at an odd angle at either end of it's stroke....causing a little more stress. If you put a longer rod in it...it lessens that angle, lessens the stress, and makes it more reliable.... That's it in a nutshell....

WORD Good point about the ignition...so many fail to realize they don't have a limiter like 4 stroke jokes!